Clutch linkage confusion 84 CJ7

[cleg]

I'm installing new mechanical clutch linkage components on an 84 CJ7 and could use some help on confirming the correct order of assembly.

During disassembly of the old parts I noted that the longer lever on the cross shaft connected to the clutch pedal push rod while the shorter lever went towards the engine and drove the rod to the clutch fork.
Makes sense, pushing the longer lever to gain mechanical advantage.

When I assemble the parts according to my notes, the clutch pedal push rod will not angle steeply enough through the hole in the firewall to connect to the longer crank lever.

I disassembled the cross shaft and brackets and assembled the other way around, with the shorter lever on the drivers side, longer lever driving the clutch fork.

In that configuration everything lines up and goes together but the force to push the clutch pedal is very high. Much less mechanical advantage pushing the short lever with my foot to force the clutch for with the long lever.

If anyone can confirm the correct assembly, I would greatly appreciate it.
The diagrams I am finding don't show clearly enough to tell for sure.

Thanks.

Cleg

 

[Petescj]

I'm getting ready to go to bed but maybe this digram will help

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[mitchelllogic]

I'm getting ready to go to bed but maybe this digram will help

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

On my 85 (before I ripped that miserable piece of 1800s wagon assembly out in favour of a hydro clutch) the long tab was connected to the clutch pedal link. It was a workout on the left knee to drive it for years.

GO Hydro if you can! You'll love it.


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[cleg]

On my 85 (before I ripped that miserable piece of 1800s wagon assembly out in favour of a hydro clutch) the long tab was connected to the clutch pedal link. It was a workout on the left knee to drive it for years.

GO Hydro if you can! You'll love it.


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info confirming that the longer lever on the cross shaft "D" is supposed to be connected to the push rod "C" to the clutch pedal.

I took the whole assembly back out again (for the 4th time) and matched it up to the old linkage components.

It turned out that the new push rod link "C" needed some tuning to get the angle of the bends corrected to allow it to connect at both ends and also stay centered in the hole through the firewall.

It had not occurred to me to start bending a new component.

This was the complete set of new OMIX clutch linkage components from Quadratec.

All good now that it is installed but lost several hours by assuming all of it would just bolt in.

Thanks.

Cleg

 

[Patrick]

It really helps when you have old components and pictures for reference. I am still looking for a reference to go by fabbing my seat mounting brackets on my ‘68 Willys.

 

[mitchelllogic]

It really helps when you have old components and pictures for reference. I am still looking for a reference to go by fabbing my seat mounting brackets on my ‘68 Willys. [emoji3525]

Let me ask a friend and see what I can find....


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[GTOgoat]

I had the same problem, I put in new linkage and the adjustable rod connected to the the lower arm was too long. If I flipped the rod with the long and short tabs so that the short tab was connected to the clutch peddle and the long tab to the clutch everything aligned up perfectly but extremely hard to push the clutch. Very little "engagement area" but clutch engagement feels solid and wont just fall out of gear. I guess you could say the clutch engaged and disengage in the top 10% of clutch peddle. Fip it around the way is should be according to the diagram and clutch peddle feels good but not sure that the clutch itself really engages correctly. Alignment of the lower rod from the clutch fork to short tab is wonky and while in 1st or 3rd while in gear but not under load from engine "coasting in gear" it will fall out of gear just under the weight of the shift lever. I was thinking about just switching to a hydraulic clutch but knowing someone else has the same problem makes me think that something else is wrong with the linkage.

 

[mitchelllogic]

Is there a body or suspension lift on this Jeep?
If so have the bell crank pivots been adjusted to compensate for the lift?
If the bell crank is not horizontal but rather tilted to compensate it puts a lot of strain on the assembly and can make it difficult to depress the clutch.
This can also lead to a link failure during articulation (when you need it to work most).
I wonder about the lift due to the comment about the firewall hole not lining up and needing to bend new parts to make them work.
Are the lengths of the old part and new part the same? Maybe the old one was extended/modified to compensate.

I was reluctant to replace the mechanical link in mine. Similarly I bought all new parts. Some more than once seeking decent quality.
Modified my pivots, extended the pushrod, extended the clutch fork rod.
Still it ended up on the ground more than once.
Even machined brass pivots and custom bell crank pivot locks to replace the little wire retainer.
While vastly improved it still tore itself out under load and articulation.
I converted to hydro and have not been let down since.
I should have done that first.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Patrick]

I wonder why some of us shy away from this proven hydro setup.

 

[Patrick]

Let me ask a friend and see what I can find....


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Tell you what, Mitchellogic, I do not want to duplicate them, I just need an accurate seat location reference. This will dictate the location of the steering column. I am reinventing everything and have a blank dash panel. I am not in a rush.

 

[mitchelllogic]

I wonder why some of us shy away from this proven hydro setup.

I was still a purist at heart at the time. By the 6th time it dumped it's "jewelry" on the ground common sense and the philosophy of "retro-mod" kicked in. I found a new zen.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[mitchelllogic]

Tell you what, Mitchellogic, I do not want to duplicate them, I just need an accurate seat location reference. This will dictate the location of the steering column. I am reinventing everything and have a blank dash panel. I am not in a rush.

Ok. Buddy of mine just did a fantastic 58. I'll ask for a template.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Patrick]

Lol I hear you, man.

Hey thanks for that info.

 

[bender3]

Do you have a link or manufacturer for the hydro kit you used? Or is it a one off fab job?.

 

[Belizean]

Do you have a link or manufacturer for the hydro kit you used? Or is it a one off fab job?.

Novak has a real nice one. I've have one on my T-4 for 35 years that is OEM. Going with a T-176 soon and got everything I need from Novak that I will need.

 

[mitchelllogic]

Do you have a link or manufacturer for the hydro kit you used? Or is it a one off fab job?.

Bender3
I ordered the Novak kit with the upgraded stainless mesh lines.
Also ordered a rebuild kit to throw in the trail box because you never know...

High quality billet parts, nothing plastic and pretty bulletproof on the slave.
Master was plastic but its high up out of harm's way.

Dont skimp on the plastic vs braided hose. Braided stands up to rocks and abrasion over time.



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[bender3]

Novak has a real nice one. I've have one on my T-4 for 35 years that is OEM. Going with a T-176 soon and got everything I need from Novak that I will need.

Thanks. I really wanna get rid of the Rube Goldberg thing. Although, it does make a good rat trap.
If anyone has ever had one pop off the fork while adjusting, you know what I mean.

 

[Patrick]

Novak’s kit is flawless. Had it for five years, zero issues. If only they made a matching high quality master cylinder...

I do remember they offer two volume sizes to select pedal effort , f I am correct, or to match master cylinder, not sure.

 

[bender3]

Novak’s kit is flawless. Had it for five years, zero issues. If only they made a matching high quality master cylinder...

I do remember they offer two volume sizes to select pedal effort , f I am correct, or to match master cylinder, not sure.

Well, I'll be starting from scratch. I will be doing the project on a CJ with a YJ tub.

I've never done this mod before, so if anyone has any tips or tricks for the pedal to master connection, that would be great too.

 

[Patrick]

I can’t help you here, sorry. I am not familiar with the YJ. I am sure someone will chime in. The Novak site might have the answer for you, or call them. They do answer the phone and answer questions. Good luck!