• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

Crossroads for 258 I6 tapping noise

Crossroads for 258 I6 tapping noise

Hillarie

Jeeper
Posts
170
Thanks
0
Location
Gilbert az
Vehicle(s)
'84 CJ7, 258 I6, D300 Laredo factory a/c, factory hard top with bikini top option, lift, 33's
I am a new owner of an 84 CJ7 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I6. It was rebuilt in 2013 (I have the receipt) but then the jeep sat for 3 years. I bought it with 309 miles on it.
I did not know that sitting can cause issues but now I have them.
I have driven it 600 miles and in that time there has been a noise that sounds like tapping.
I removed the valve cover and checked the rocker arms. I also checked to see if the rod ends had broken off. All ok there. I took it to a cert. mechanic and compression is good. I was told they cannot tell me what is going on unless they take the top off but it sounds like rod bearings to them.

So now what? I do not know what to do. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks a bunch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
First guess would be sludge in the lubrication system from poor oil choices or not changing oil when necessary. I would recommend using a high detergent oil like a Shell Rotella 15w-40 and change a regular intervals. It might take awhile to clean it all out.
 
Thanks Torxhead. So driveable? I don't want to cause damage and the $ to check it is out of my budget right now. The shop recommended a remanufactured new engine which is way beyond what I can manage at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
X2 on Torxhead's advice. I cant think of too many I6 engines that didn't have an inherent "ticking noise". In fact, I can only say that I've ever heard one that didn't. Not sure if it is still something people do, but running a quart of ATF with your oil change used to be the suggestion for "cleaning out" an engine with a sludge issue. Although, sludge really shouldnt be an issue with only 1000 miles on a rebuild
 
Would an engine rebuilt with only 900 miles on it have sludge?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I cant imagine how really, but I'm sure there are circumstances that make it a possibility.
 
A poor grade of engine oil installed plus the fact that it has been sitting awhile could do it. I remember using Pennzoil years ago and my engine started sludging up with that. You can also do stuff just to see what shape your engine is in like a compression check, spark plug burn inspect, what shape the carb is in, and complete tune up. I always like to record dates or mileage just to see when what was done as I am too old to remember that stuff.
 
It is at a shop now getting a compression test and an overall assessment so I will keep everyone posted. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Your first comp test was good-Why do you feel a 2nd test is needed then?
What weight oil do you run?
I run Castrol 20W-50.
LG
 
I have gotten different diagnosis from different shops and it is driving me crazy and difficult to know who to trust.
One said lifter
One said rocker bearing

So now I am not going to do anything except change the oil myself and see if that does anything. I am just hoping to not destroy the engine. I am going to try the suggestions here.

It was also suggested it could be piston slap. So I have learned a lot but no real diagnosis without pulling the top of the engine off.

I wanna drive!![emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Another cause of sludge is if the engine never gets to the correct operational temperature because of the wrong thermostat and continued short trips. I have only used Castrol 10-30 and have over 235K miles and the engine is doing well. Knock on wood
 
I have gotten different diagnosis from different shops and it is driving me crazy and difficult to know who to trust.
One said lifter
One said rocker bearing

So now I am not going to do anything except change the oil myself and see if that does anything. I am just hoping to not destroy the engine. I am going to try the suggestions here.

It was also suggested it could be piston slap. So I have learned a lot but no real diagnosis without pulling the top of the engine off.

I wanna drive!![emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AGAIN :rolleyes: I ask, what is the oil weight you are using in the engine?
What oil filter are you using?
What did the last comp test give you for readings?
LG
 
I am not trying to frustrate you LG-
I don't know the oil or filter. I have only driven 600 miles on it and the receipt from the oil change just before I bought it doesn't say the weight.
The compression from the last shop is
1-142
2-135
3-148
4-AMC 150
5-148
6-142
The shop recommended 5-30w now and additive and in the summer 10w-30 or straight 30.
So now I am going to change it and try what you suggested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Your readouts are great.
You're using to 'lite' an oil.
Go to a High-Mileage 20W-50 and see what that does. Go to NAPA and get a NAPA Gold 1522(Wix, that is the OEM filter, BTW)oil filter.
Get that oil changed ASAP, like this weekend.
We both live in the desert, the 20W-50 is great year around. I've run that oil in my Jeep since my first oil change in 1985.
LG
 
Thanks for the update. With as few miles as you have on that engine, I would suggest an oil/filter change fairly soon to as to clean the engine out as there might still be just :dung: in the lifters that could making that lifter noise. Using a high detergent 10w-30 oil an a Wix filter could help here. Keep those compression #s in your maintaince records.
 
:agree: :notworthy:
Keep a full maintenance log book on everydangthing you do to the Jeep. Be sure to include date, mileage and PN's of the parts involved, along with any torque settings used.
LG
 
Great advice. I will start the journal now. Thanks both of you! I will get this thing on the road - there is a run this coming weekend and I am gearing for that. I will change the oil/ filter before I go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If it were me, I would add 1quart Mavel Merstery oil to 4 quarts of oil and new filter. Run it about 50-100 miles and dump it. Most plane mechanics know this fix.
 
Update:
The tapping graduated to knocking. So I replaced the oil/filter (used the heavy weight oil/filter LG suggested. Pressure was better but the noise wasn't. So rod bearing replacement happened on Wednesday. The sound is so much better but still there :/
d04648c3b0fbea11ebc92487e8f99e7f.webp



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What did you use to confirm the clearance of these new bearings is correct?
FWIW: Try replacing the mains. ;)
LG
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Back
Top Bottom