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LG- I didn't do anything for clearance- didn't know I was supposed to. [emoji30]
And excuse my ignorance (the more I learn the less I seem to know) but you say replace the mains... the main what? Rods?
Your knowledge is endless it seems and I cannot say thank you enough.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
1984 cj7 RENEGADE, Hard Top, factory air, reman 304 v8, ax15, D 300, D 30, AMC 20 with one piece axle, welded tubes and a searchers truss system, 4.56 gears, 4" lift, BFG 33x12.5x15, DirtWorx front and rear bumpers, rock sliders
1984 cj7 RENEGADE, Hard Top, factory air, reman 304 v8, ax15, D 300, D 30, AMC 20 with one piece axle, welded tubes and a searchers truss system, 4.56 gears, 4" lift, BFG 33x12.5x15, DirtWorx front and rear bumpers, rock sliders
Had mine in storage for 11.5 years. Dumped the oil, put fresh gas and she busted right off. Like I just ran her the day before.
To comment on some of the comments.
1.Pennzoil YEARS ago was a paraffin base. Used to be a sludger. They have long ditched that recipe. Today Pennzoil is probably one of the best oils you can buy. From their plain basic yellow bottle all the way to their "synthetics". Buy any flavor Pennzoil and sleep well knowing you have it.
2.Castrol used to be good years ago. Today,,,,,, just another brand at the bottom. I would buy and do, Walmart Supertech over Castrol. And a 50 weight oil is rather thick for a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l that when rebuilt or new, had bearing clearances for winter time of 30w and summer a 40w oil. Now if your engine is tired I could see running a 50w. Say if you didn't have any oil pressure at idle. Other than that, you lose HP and engine protection in the winter. Stuff is like molasses when its cold out.
3.A boiled thermostat to verify it opens at 195F, is a good place to start as was mentioned. Great advice. Just because its new doesn't mean jack.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Please provide links or source to confirm your Castrol Oil statement.
I have run Castrol for over 50+ years. When I have a user oil analysis done. The results say to keep using it.
A 195* t'stat will only start to open at 190*-200*. It will not be all the way open till around 210*-215*.
FWIW: I run Castrol 20W-50 in my CJ7 and have done so for 32+ yrs. AMC recommend it for certain temp ranges also.
Engine has now 120K+ miles and runs 55+psi hot oil pressure on the freeway.
Never been inside the engine other than to reseal the valve cover and still pass smog(knock on wood)every 2 yrs.
Please provide links or source to confirm your Castrol Oil statement.
I have run Castrol for over 50+ years. When I have a user oil analysis done. The results say to keep using it.
A 195* t'stat will only start to open at 190*-200*. It will not be all the way open till around 210*-215*.
FWIW: I run Castrol 20W-50 in my CJ7 and have done so for 32+ yrs. AMC recommend it for certain temp ranges also.
Engine has now 120K+ miles and runs 55+psi hot oil pressure on the freeway.
Never been inside the engine other than to reseal the valve cover and still pass smog(knock on wood)every 2 yrs.
You can read all about Castrol over at Bob is the oil guy forum. It's old news sir. Castrol's so called "synthetic" is nothing special. Their petroleum grade falls in line too. It obviously works for you. I've never read any lube related engine failures from any brand oil. It's just that other brands today, have better additive packs and some even cost less.
Far as hot engine temp weights go, my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l cold, runs as follows. Winter oil change I use Walmart 10w-30 petroleum. I get 40psi at a red light idle cold temp. Anything over 1,000rpm I get 55-65psi. Running a standard volume oil pump, nothing special. Hot I get 25psi at idle and 50-60psi over 1k revs.
Summer oil I use Walmart Supertech 15w-40 petroleum. 45psi at 650rpm idle cold engine temp. Hot I get 25-30psi at idle and 60+psi at over 1k revs. Our engines will run with 5psi all day long.
Agree on a 195 stat initial opening of 195F. Full around 205-215F. My point was to check a new stat by boiling first before you install. Lot of people install a "new" stat and have issues without boiling first.
Back to oil, your engine has some wear now so that heavier oil might be proper. The bearing clearances have now opened up. Just wonder if you would of gotten better protection with a lighter oil like the manual states. Guess if you live where its 100F every day and night, I could see running a thick 50 weight maybe.
I used to live in Arizona and Cali. It would get a little nippy in the mornings. Easy in the 40's at times. Take your bottle of 20w-50 and try to pour it out at 40F. Like watching paint dry. For that matter take a 30W and do the same. Synthetics are much better doing this cold pour test. Just think, that thick 50w oil trying to force itself into those 0.004" or so bearing clearances at 40 degrees LOL.
Another eye opener, engine oil, any weight or brand, is too thick to run in ANY engine straight out of the bottle. Viscosity indexes are through the roof. How we get by is it thins when it gets hot. So when your engine is cold, no matter the weight, it's too thick for proper protection for all our engines. And at what temperature does this happen? Talking like 80-100F outdoor ambient. End of novel LOL.
1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Bob is the Oil Guy Forum is run on emotion, far more than fact.
The only syn I run is in my T-5 .
The OEM, Owners Manual listed 20W-50 engine oil for use and is perfect for where I live. So YES, I am using a recommended weight oil.
Slomo-Please fill out your profile and vehicle info, TY.
LG
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
LG I've always used Castrol in my vehicles also. I have over 236,000 miles on mine. Wondering why the OEM OM mentions the use of 20-50, but the MR-252 does not even show the use of 20-50. Or at least in my version. What up with that ?
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
My FSM shows engine oil weights on page A-6 in the General Spec section.
Mine does not show 20W-50 either.
Does say NOT to use 5W-30 above 65*.
How times change- 5W-30 is all we run in our 2, Subaru's.
LG
Older engines were designed to run with thicker oils than more modern engines do. Or better said, modern engines were designed to use thinner oils for less internal drag and economy increases. Modern engines are built to tighter clearances than the older ones.
Thinner oils work better with tighter clearances. In the older engines, with looser clearance specs, the thicker oils were to help fill those clearances. A new JK with a Pentastar V6 (same engine used in my wife's van) uses 5w/30. My old CJ5 with the GM 2.5 4 banger loved Castrol 15w/40 when new. As it got older, I eventually started running Castrol 20/50 in it because of increased clearances with wear. It had about 150k on it and ran great despite my abuse when I got stupid and traded it in. The AMC I6 is a pretty old school engine. I personally wouldn't run any lighter than 15w/40 in one.
Another thing about the thicker weight oils is that back in the Cretacious street racing days, a lot of guys would run looser clearances and thicker oils to make up the difference. The idea was the looser engine would rev easier and the thick oil would protect it.
As far as what brand of oil to use, I'd rather not get into that food fight. As long as it's not "re-refined" and is of a proper viscosity for the engine, I'm usually good with it.
"Owners manual" say,
above 40+ = 10-30, 20-40, 10-40, 30, or 40
above 0 = 20-20, 10-30, or 10-40
below 0 = 5-20, 5-30, or 10
At least up to year 79
By 87 owners manual wouldn't give folks an option, they just gave a part #.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
So now we've found out our manuals say no 50 weight oil........ Wondering why people would run them? Manufacturer says use oatmeal. You install chocolate chip. I don't get it......
Lumpy Grits, if you think Bob is the oil guy forum is a joke, you better read some more sir. Those guys are fanatical about oils. And your comments puzzle me.
