Dana 60s

[Peanut Butter]

Saw this on CL today. 1979 CJ-7 CJ7 dana 60 's new paint

Probably over kill for me, but I really like the DANA 60 front and rear axle. This one looks like it was done right. Feel free to Edumacate Me or Comments?

 

[Bent]

It don' t look as big as I thought it would in front. It seems like the Power-loks are plentiful for the Dana 60. I saw one on CL not too long ago that was built for a CJ rear. It was a high pinion front housing with a 30 spline power-lok with CJ Dana 44 tubes and axle shafts. I just wonder how much ground clearance you would give up.

 

[hole]

I read that you give up 1" of clearance with the D60

 

[Torxhead]

I have seen the bottom of the pumkin on the D60 shaved for more ground clearance. After once having a front powerlock, I was quite disapointed and now have an ARB. The D60 could support some serious tires though.

 

[Posi]

I have 60s under the Jeep I'm building now. I bought an 86 K30 for $600 parted it out for $2300, and kept the front 60 at no cost to me. I picked up a set of Dodge 1 ton 60s for $300 at the bone yard, and sold the front for $600, and kept the HD rear 60.

Good K30 parts are in demand so buying the rig complete is a good way to get yourself a free front 60 and if you prefer a rear 14 as well.

The 60 in the link you posted is cut down and looks much better that way IMO. All you need is a chop saw, thin cutting wheel, and a welder to do the job, you would need to sub out the respline of the driver side axle shaft I paid $125 for 2, so I could had one spare.

The rear 60 has 44 sized shafts so you could keep them if your not going to a larger tire (over 37") or you can bore out the spindles for the larger 1.5 shafts which I did for mine.


Stock size spindle rear 60



Bored out to except 1.5 shafts



I also cut down the tubes an 1” or so on each end.





Added disc brakes



And cover



The front 60





Added gussets on each end





If your running under 37” tires there isn't a need for 60, but having 60s under your Jeep turns it in to a whole different animal. I was looking to run 37” tires but found a deal I couldn’t refuse on a new set of 39” PB that I got for the same price as a new set of 33”. I also like new and fun projects so it was a big part of why I went with 60s.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Holy Posi, that is awesome! :rock:

I hadn't really thought about the ground clearance difference using a Dana 60 over a Dana 44 . However, I think the ability to add even larger tires would compensate a little for that.

Posi, looks like you are going to keep the 8 lug bolt pattern. In which case you just cut the axle down and have it resplined, if I understand correctly. I'm guessing you would need a custom axle if you wanted the 5x5.5 as in this case. Thinking out loud, the 8 lug pattern would be stronger, but the custom axle and mimic the same bolt pattern would look more original. What size wheel (diameter) will you use with yours, Posi? When you get into the really large tire sizes, 37 to 44, does it mater?

I'm thinking with the Dana 60 conversion you would need at least a V8. Don't think the I6 would have enough torque or horse power, or am I wrong?

One more question, Posi, why the Chevy D60 front and not the Dodge since you are using the Dodge D60 in the rear?

By the way, nice welding skills.

 

[Posi]

Posi, looks like you are going to keep the 8 lug bolt pattern. In which case you just cut the axle down and have it resplined, if I understand correctly.

That's correct.

I'm guessing you would need a custom axle if you wanted the 5x5.5 as in this case. Thinking out loud, the 8 lug pattern would be stronger, but the custom axle and mimic the same bolt pattern would look more original.

Yes, the 8 lug is much stronger.
The only reason I would swap to 5 lug would be to match rims that I already had and preferred using, although it would be less expensive and time consuming to buy new rims. I also wouldn’t go with a large tire (over 37"), or do any heavy wheeling, there is a reason they come stock with 8 lug.
The 5 lug will give the look of original from the sides but from the front and rear there is no mistaking the beef of 60s compared to a 30/20.


The thing your dealing with on a 5 lug swap is the hubs. There are a few vendors who sell front hubs for the 5x5.5 swap. You can do it yourself by turning down the D60 hubs to fit through the 5 lug rims, turn the backsides down to fit the 5 lug rotors, and then re-drill the flanges. You would need to make a caliper bracket to fit as well. There are multiple ways you can do the swap using D-60, Dana 44 chevy, and ford parts as well.


The rear 60 full float (FF) could be done if you wanted to keep it, but it would be time better spent going with semi float 60 and converting to 5 lug. There is the J-20 rear SF 60 35 spline that already has the 5 lug but the pinion is off centered a bit, not a big deal.

What size wheel (diameter) will you use with yours, Posi? When you get into the really large tire sizes, 37 to 44, does it mater?

I'm running H2 17” rims with 39.5 PB. I found most tires brands 37” and under do not live up to their advertized size. I had a friend measure his 37” Pitbull and they were around 35”, and smaller when he aired down. I have also found tires over 37” are more true to the advertized size.

I'm thinking with the Dana 60 conversion you would need at least a V8. Don't think the I6 would have enough torque or horse power, or am I wrong?

Although I run a 360 there is no need for a V8, the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l is plenty of engine to run 60's and large tires if geared correctly.

One more question, Posi, why the Chevy D60 front and not the Dodge since you are using the Dodge D60 in the rear?

The chevy has the better internal hubs and the dodge has the external hubs. I went with the dodge rear because it was a HD diff with extra webbing and is smaller in size then the 14. My plan was to run 37” tires but couldn't find one that actually measure 37”, plus I got the 39.5 at a great price as I previously mentioned.

 

[IOPort51]

after you cut the knuckle off the end how did you prep it to put back on? Or did you just butt weld it?

 

[Peanut Butter]

after you cut the knuckle off the end how did you prep it to put back on? Or did you just butt weld it?

Is the end of the tube that is inside the knuckle welded? Can it be removed? Seems like that would be the best solution, but I'm clueless since I have never attempted any of this. :dunno: Would it be worth getting a new knuckle to weld to the tube?

 

[Posi]

after you cut the knuckle off the end how did you prep it to put back on? Or did you just butt weld it?

No butt weld needed. However, if was a mistake in measurement one could sleeve the tube, V the ends and weld.
I put it together similar to the way the factory did.
I made the first cut as close to the C to aide in tube removal. (above pic).
I made a second cut to shorten the tube by 4”





I ground down the factory weld and tube until I could see the separation between the tube and C. You will see a definite separation I just wasn’t there yet when I took this pic.








I cut the tube in 3 spots then punched out the tube.








I cleaned the tube end lead hammer to install the C. I alined the C by moving the axle until the opposite C touched the floor. Once they were both in alinement I burnt the C onto the tube.

The weld could have been a lot better but it is what it is.

 

[Posi]

Is the end of the tube that is inside the knuckle welded? Can it be removed? Seems like that would be the best solution, but I'm clueless since I have never attempted any of this. :dunno: Would it be worth getting a new knuckle to weld to the tube?

Yes, to the weld, and no to the new inner knuckle or (C).
See my previous post.

 

[IOPort51]

could you have punched/pressed the tube out without cutting it?? how did you cut it? Who made the replacement axle shaft?? was there an option of cutting and re splineing the old shaft??

 

[Posi]

could you have punched/pressed the tube out without cutting it??

You would need to grind down the weld between the tube and C to press it out. Removing the weld while the tube is still in would be tedious and most likely gouge up the C in the process. Much easier to grind down the weld without the tube.


The tube is easily removed by making three cuts to relieve the pressure then tap out the pieces.

how did you cut it?

Band saw for the tube, angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel for the axle shafts. You could use a chop saw for the tube as well. I used a sawzall to make three cuts to remove the tube.

c Who made the replacement axle shaft?? was there an option of cutting and re splineing the old shaft??

The front shafts I subbed out, had them cut down and re-spline my original shafts. I paid $125 for two ( I had a spare). I believe it cost $90 for one so it made sense to cut and respline two.


Mitchell Differential Custom Axles and Differentials |


The rear, I purchased 1.5 35 spline shafts with extra long 6” splines so I could cut them down for a custom fit.

I've also cut down front 44s as well.

 

[IOPort51]

More questions, what did you use for springs and did the Saginaw steering box from the CJ work out OK?

 

[Peanut Butter]

More questions, what did you use for springs and did the Saginaw steering box from the CJ work out OK?

I was also curious about the steering setup you will use with this too. Is stock strong enough?

 

[Posi]

More questions, what did you use for springs and did the Saginaw steering box from the CJ work out OK?

I used wagon springs they are ½ ton compared to the ¼ CJ springs and their 5” longer with a 2” offset pin that will move the axle forward.



Cut up some bushing for a shackle reversal 1.25 ID 1.50 OD 2.5 W



I had to drill a 1.5” hole through the frame at the correct position to install the bushing and mount the shackle. I placed 4 - ¼” plates to gain a 1” frame to spring clearance and set the shackle at 90 degrees.



I had to enlarge the bottom shackle hole from 1/2” to 9/16 to fit the wagon springs.



An important part of drilling the holes was to make sure the inner hole was aligned so the bushing would pass through. I did this by installing the bushing and using a drill bit just a hair smaller then the bushing sleeve to start a pilot hole.

Found a few acorns inside the frame





It doesn’t look centered from the angle of the shot but it is centered.





I cut some 1/8” plate for bushing support.



This is the bearing cap that’s located at the bottom of the steering knuckle.

I had some extra tubing left over from when I made my frame bushings and cut 2 – 7/8” pieces. I decided to reuse the original 45 degree fittings because they work fine, for excess I grooved one side.





I decided to use the stock dodge 60 tie rod (TR) I had in my shop apposed to the stock chevy 60 TR. The dodge is a beefier (1 1/4" – 1/4" wall) then the chevy (1 1/6") plus the dodge has internal threads compared to the adjustment sleeve on the chevy.



Having previously cut down my axle by 4” I had to cut down the TR that much plus factor in hi-steer offset this meant cutting off the threaded end. I didn’t have a 7/8” 18 tap to run new threads so I chose to make two cuts and weld back on the original tube end that housed the threads.

The first cut was to save the 2” of threaded tube the second cut would remove the excess tube to get the correct fit.



With the extra section removed I could now burn in the threaded end piece using a sleeve.








With 39.5 tires and seeing a lot of offroad use I went with hydro assist steering. I belive you could get away with the stock steering setup running 37" 60/40 road/offroad use.

 

[Peanut Butter]

That was great Posi! Thanks for the step by step and all the pictures. Now to dream and keep one eye open for all the right parts.

 

[Posi]

My pleasure, and thank you for the kind words.