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Dash Bulb Socket Upgrade

Dash Bulb Socket Upgrade

Neuner

Old Time Jeeper
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Vehicle(s)
"Oscar":1985 CJ7, 4.0 '98 OBDII, T177, RE 4.5" lift w/ CV Jnts, Dana 300, Dana 30 and AMC 20, 33" BFG KO2s, Raptor Lined Interior and Rustoleum BBQ exterior.
In relation to my other post, while cleaning up and painting my dash, I replaced the gauge bulbs with LEDs that are the same bayonet style. The OEM sockets are being a pain and I have a couple of them that I can't get to sit right in the socket and therefore they only work occasionally. Did a search on the site and internet and there is mention of a two wire socket upgrade but no other specifics. Anyone know if one exists?

Thanks,
Neuner
 
Also curious about this, I put in a few led bulbs that fit into the stock socket and they are not that bright. makes it difficult to see the gauges at night.
 
Also curious about this, I put in a few led bulbs that fit into the stock socket and they are not that bright. makes it difficult to see the gauges at night.
Four things come to mind, Make sure you are getting enough voltage to the socket. The current can lose power as it go thru the fuse box. Grounds as always, the nearest oem ground connection is on the firewall. You can check this by running a jumper from the battery negative to one of the gauge cluster hold down screws. The light switch has a brightmess adjuster, mine does anyway, make sure it is adjusted properly. You can always try hooking the light directly to the battery.
 
Mine is not a brightness or lack of ground issue. I think the problem is the original flimsy metal socket that mounts to the rubber and snaps into the back of the gauge.

The ones that are working are plenty bright. There are some that are out but if I jiggle them, they flicker on so I know it's the cheesy OEM mount. Was hoping someone knew of a better aftermarket socket.
 
Mine is not a brightness or lack of ground issue. I think the problem is the original flimsy metal socket that mounts to the rubber and snaps into the back of the gauge.

The ones that are working are plenty bright. There are some that are out but if I jiggle them, they flicker on so I know it's the cheesy OEM mount. Was hoping someone knew of a better aftermarket socket.

Hmmm, I think I just posted a similar question. Hope someone jumps in here with some ideas. I will follow this thread as well. Rick :chug:
 
Hey guy's, I spent much time on the internet, this is what I found that may work. NAPA, p/n LS 6225. I'm going to visit NAPA on Monday. I will provide feedback on how the sockets fit. :chug: Rick
 
LEDs come in many flavors. Standard brightness and Super or Ultrabright are very different. If you need more light use the Ultrabright. They are X5 the price of the standard LED. Just FYI
 
I used the 4 LED BA9s from SuperBrightLEDS: BA9s LED Bulb - 4 LED | BA9s and BA7s LED Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

They are plenty bright. It's nice being able to read my gauges in the dark for a change. They do not dim. As you turn the dimmer knob, they stay the same brightness until they're not receiving enough power and then turn off.

Update: Pulled the dash out and went through each bulb that wasn't working correctly and kept re-installing, shaving down the bulb connector until they worked right. Hadn't had any problems since.
 
Ok, Glad your issues have been resolved^^^^. I did in fact go to NAPA and purchased two snap in light sockets, tried them in my 76 CJ speedo cluster, and they worked great. The NAPA p/n is 787133 and they were $4.19 each, and on the shelve. Hope this helps some of you Jeepers. Rick :chug:
 
I used the 4 LED BA9s from SuperBrightLEDS: BA9s LED Bulb - 4 LED | BA9s and BA7s LED Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

They are plenty bright. It's nice being able to read my gauges in the dark for a change. They do not dim. As you turn the dimmer knob, they stay the same brightness until they're not receiving enough power and then turn off.

Update: Pulled the dash out and went through each bulb that wasn't working correctly and kept re-installing, shaving down the bulb connector until they worked right. Hadn't had any problems since.

Looking at buying these for my CJ, but what voltage bulb should I buy?
 
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Ok, Glad your issues have been resolved^^^^. I did in fact go to NAPA and purchased two snap in light sockets, tried them in my 76 CJ speedo cluster, and they worked great. The NAPA p/n is 787133 and they were $4.19 each, and on the shelve. Hope this helps some of you Jeepers. Rick :chug:

This info should be in a sticky
 
I used the 4 LED BA9s from SuperBrightLEDS: BA9s LED Bulb - 4 LED | BA9s and BA7s LED Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

They are plenty bright. It's nice being able to read my gauges in the dark for a change. They do not dim. As you turn the dimmer knob, they stay the same brightness until they're not receiving enough power and then turn off.

Update: Pulled the dash out and went through each bulb that wasn't working correctly and kept re-installing, shaving down the bulb connector until they worked right. Hadn't had any problems since.

Just got my LED bulbs for the Speedo Cluster! Amazing difference! It's nice to finally see my speed at night through that murky dark green tint, AMC decided to put on it.:mad:

The biggest difference was replacing the turn signal bulbs. You can now see them from a mile away. I def wont be forgetting that my turn signal is on. :)

Well worth $20!
 
It's nice to finally see my speed at night through that murky dark green tint, AMC decided to put on it.:mad:


I had to rework my speedometer so while I had it apart, I removed the green tint bulbs. Looks much better without!
 
I had to rework my speedometer so while I had it apart, I removed the green tint bulbs. Looks much better without!


Do you have any pics? I am wondering if it is worth it to pull the speedo or try to deal with it still installed to get better lighting.


Dain
 
Sorry, no pics. I'd take the speedo out. I took a knife to the back of the green dome stubs for a clean removal. Did it that way so I could put them back in if I didn't like it.

Not sure if there is a difference but mine is an aftermarket model the PO had put in.

Without the green and after putting in new indicator lamp modules, it all matches.
 
I had to rework my speedometer so while I had it apart, I removed the green tint bulbs. Looks much better without!

I maybe wrong, but I dont think it's the bulbs that have the green tint. I think the green tint is coming from the speedometer enclosure. At least with mine it was. My new white LED lights were still coming out green in the speedometer. That said, it's still substantially brighter, then the factory bulbs.

I'll try to post some pics tonight!
 
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I maybe wrong, but I dont think it's the bulbs that have the green tint. I think the green tint is coming from the speedometer enclosure. At least with mine it was. My new white LED lights were still coming out green in the speedometer. That said, it's still substantially brighter, then the factory bulbs.

I'll try to post some pics tonight!

Sorry. I used a poor description. I wasn't referring to the light bulb but the green tinted plastic "dome" that the light is inserted into. Yes, my lights are clear/white.

I am liking it a lot more without the green. I can finally read the odometer while driving.
 
I found the 1 wire hoders at NAPA part #LS6225. They call it a voltage regulator
connector? Echlin makes it. Not cheap at $7.00 ea. If you need the 2 wire socket (4x4 and brake light) all I could find was a Ron Francis PL-01 at Summit for 11 &^%$@(dollars ea. Both use the same bulbs as original.Both are for 5/8" opening.
 

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