• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

DUI distributors

DUI distributors

84CJPaul

Jeeper
Posts
6
Thanks
0
Location
Jackson, OH
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ7 Hardtop - 258 C.I. straight six, 4-speed manual, stock t-case and axels
OK, here's the deal. I've got an '84 CJ7 with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l straight six, a 4 speed manual Transmission and stock everything else except the completely butchered wiring harness. I was driving it one day and it sputtered once, I made it about 3/4 of a mile and it died like it was out of gas and hasn't ran since. I've replaced my entire ignition system (switch, coil, the distributor is less than 7 months old, plug wires, had the ICM tested, checked voltages and resistances) and my jeep will not even arc until you let off the key. I've heard fifty different possibilities and none of them have done anything but cost me money and time. Now...I was looking through a catalog the other day and I seen these distributors that have the coil, ICM and all that built in. They're made by a company called Davis Unified Ignition, I think. So my question is...has anyone ever used one and how do I take and put a toggle switch, push button starter and this distributor set up in my CJ and do away with all this other wiring nightmare.
 
They (DUI) make good products although kinda pricey.
Before you do that try replacing your resistor wire.
 
They (DUI) make good products although kinda pricey.
Before you do that try replacing your resistor wire.
X2 on the resistor wire and DUI, there are several cheap chinese distributors out there for half of DUI but remember you get what you pay for :chug:
 
Thanks guys. But I thought that putting in the Accel Super Stack Coil made the resistor wire unneeded. Sorry, that part wasn't mentioned earlier. But like I said the wiring harness has been butchered and the clip that went on the stock type coil was a victim of that. The Accel was the first one I seen with the bolt on leads and that seemed a lot easier and faster than buying a stock coil and having to order the clip for it.
 
For testing purposes it would be easy enough to run a hot wire directly from the battery to the hot side of the distributor, make it so you can remove it to shut the engine off. The distributor wiring is simple enough, even with a couple extra wires for the coil. Your spark wires are set up correctly, I assume you've checked that already. I know this sounds wrong, but how is your fuel pump? Sometimes it's very difficult to tell which is going bad, fuel or spark.
 
When restoring my 81 I think the dui was the best investment I made. I ran a hot wire from the selinoid.
 
It's getting fuel, and I tried the hot wire from the battery to the coil. It still just cranked and cranked and didn't do anything until you let off of the key. Then it would get one spark from the coil as the key was coming backwards.
 
I'm probably stating the obvious but I thought I'd throw it out there. Have you checked or replaced the ignition switch on the steering column, or even it's mounting screws? It's just odd that it works when the key is in the wrong position. (if I'm understanding you right)
 
Sounds like you may have a wiring problem and need to verify you have voltage to the coil to make your existing system work.

I bought a DUI unit 10 yrs ago and have been very happy with it on my 360. I think it is a good investment in reliability for your rig.
 
The entire fuel system is new, gas tank, sending unit, fuel pump. But here's the thing...I had been driving the Jeep for a few months when this happened. And there is no doubt about the wiring problem in this thing. The big wiring harness that comes into the engine bay has about fifty wires in it and 4 of them are actually hooked to something. The rest are just kind of hanging in a big ball between the master cylinder and the intake manifold. That's the main reason that I asked about the DUI distributors. I'm wanting to completely do away with all of that mess, hook up a toggle switch and a push button, and simplify this whole set up. But I'm not sure how those DUIs work.
 
I would sure hate to see you cut out your wire harness, sounds like someone half way did a nutter bypass/ computer removal on the wire harness. You could finish that and your wire harness would look much cleaner like it should. The HEI is pretty simple, the ignition control module and coil are all in the cap of the distributor. All you have to do is plug a switched 12v hot wire to it, I used the 13B Red W/TR -14 it is the 12v power supply wire for the ignition circuit it makes for a clean install. It would be a good thing to check your ignition switch while you are at it to make sure it is adjusted correctly and providing 12v in the run position to the ignition system
 
The ignition switch was the first thing I changed when this happened. I've checked the new one twice for adjustment and voltage. It's all good. I'm just going to do away with the entire factory ignition system. Mainly all of the stuff going to those two computers and keep the rest of the harness...or at least as much as I can.
 
The ignition switch was the first thing I changed when this happened. I've checked the new one twice for adjustment and voltage. It's all good. I'm just going to do away with the entire factory ignition system. Mainly all of the stuff going to those two computers and keep the rest of the harness...or at least as much as I can.

If you hate automotive electronics as much as I do, and admittedly because of my own complete lack of understanding...you would know how much I hesitate to suggest this path, but in the end you will indeed be happy and you'll know what every :censored: wire means...
 
If you cut all the factory stuff out remember to leave a few inches (i normally leave 5 to 6) coming off the fuse box just incase you miss something and later need to reattach it. HEI distributors are very cool all they need is a 12v source to the positive connector. I bought one off ebay for about 85 bucks. I went with this cheaper one because I exchanged pms with the seller and they said they bought their parts from the same company that produces for the MSD brand HEI.
 
I think I'm gonna go with DUI. Thanks guys.:chug:
 
I chose the HEI when I did the Howell Fuel Injection and it did clean up the wiring! You do need to be careful about the Gear on the Distributor though....it should not be hardened!!! (use a file or a drill to check this) I had the original gear bushed and used it on my CRT HEI Distributor and have been very happy. You should also check and adjust the Full Timing Advance, I think that it should be 32-35 degrees but check that 1st.
You will (or at least should) also need to add a relay to ensure that the HEI gets a solid 12 Volts. If you do a search you will find previous discussions on just this.
Here is a link to at least one previous discussion, you will find that some still like the old stuff...just not me;
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/dui-distributor-10975/

Good advice earlier about using a Volt Meter to ensure that there is 12+ Volts.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  12.5%
Back
Top Bottom