Electric Fan(s)

[007]

I'm thinking of moving over to an electric fan(s) setup. My Holley Sniper has wiring built in to switch these on and off (up to two fans) and I think that at low RPM this would be nice.

I've read about the Contour fans, not sure if I want a dual fan or a single fan setup. I can see advantages to both...

Thoughts / suggestions?

 

[gr8dain]

I went with the dual fan because it was available at a good price and it allows one to die and have a back up.

 

[gert]

I have both the single and the dual fan contour set up, I installed the dual set up with a Haden controller, pretty close to a bolt in


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[007]

I have both the single and the dual fan contour set up, I installed the dual set up with a Haden controller, pretty close to a bolt in


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What single did you use?


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[gert]

Don’t remember the year application but it was for a Taurus/contour single fan


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[gert]

If you want my single fan I am wanting it out of my garage


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[007]

If you want my single fan I am wanting it out of my garage


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PM me details plz.


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[HackFabrication]

I've been running the Contour/Mystique dual fan set up in my CJ5 with a Ford Racing 5.0L. No complaints. I'm using a Flex-A-Lite controller. I have both fans 'wired as one'. The FAL controller is variable, and has provisions for 'off', 'on', and 'automatic'.

A new Contour/Mystique dual fan can be purchased for around $100 from CarParts, et al. Here's one: https://www.carparts.com/details/Fo...ZD8KF2yWikaEUjeI7H8aApx1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You may wish to get the fan motor pigtails, but they are also available.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l-connector,radiator+fan+motor+connector,2556

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Why an ele. fan as your primary cooling?
If you run a shroud, and have no blockages/restrictions in your OEM cooling system. You don't gain a thing.
Ele fans are power suckers, and noisy.

LG

 

[Posi]

This is what I have on my 79 to control my contour fan (bmw temp sensor).
$10 for the lot.

 

[007]

Why an ele. fan as your primary cooling?

If you run a shroud, and have no blockages/restrictions in your OEM cooling system. You don't gain a thing.

Ele fans are power suckers, and noisy.



LG

I have zero issues except at over 10k feet. When lugging up those mountain passes the air gets thin and a low rpm fan just doesn’t remove the heat as well as I’d like.

I’m adding a cold air intake to pull air from outside the engine compartment in a effort to lower temps as well.


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[Lumpy Grits]

Valid point-I use an ele 'pusher' fan(the OEM setup is still in place)that comes on at 215*.
Also helps with vapor lock, when stopped at the higher alt.
LG

 

[gr8dain]

My flex-a-lite controller started acting up last night after replacing my battery. Now it won’t turn off. Gonna need to play with that this afternoon.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Sure sign that the relay may have died-
I carry a spare relay with me for my pusher.
LG

 

[gr8dain]

Sure sign that the relay may have died-

I carry a spare relay with me for my pusher.

LG

If there is a relay, it is internal. I think I need a new unit. For now, I just put a switch within the power feed. I will have to manually flip the fans on and off when driving.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If your fan is setup to activate at a certain temp. Pretty sure there's a relay someplace in that circuit.
LG

 

[gr8dain]

I am sure it is inside of the controlling unit itself. For now I just have the manual switch within the power line to the controller. Honestly, the controller is doing nothing anyway now.

This is the one I have



I am thinking about running the power off of an ignition powered line in the engine bay rather than directly from the battery. That way it will turn on when I start the CJ and turn off when I turn it off rather than me having to remember to flip the switch all of the time.

Ideas on where to grab the power from?

 

[HackFabrication]

I am sure it is inside of the controlling unit itself.

There are no 'relays' per se, in the FAL controller. It is MOSFET (IIRC) technology, which slowly brings the fan(s) up to full speed. It does this by 'hitting' the motors with short spikes of voltage. Electric motors draw a lot of current (amps) to initially start, then will settle down to what their operating amperage is.

At least that's how the FAL controller on my CJ works.

Can't help ya on where to tap in.

 

[gr8dain]

There are no 'relays' per se, in the FAL controller. It is MOSFET (IIRC) technology, which slowly brings the fan(s) up to full speed. It does this by 'hitting' the motors with short spikes of voltage. Electric motors draw a lot of current (amps) to initially start, then will settle down to what their operating amperage is.



At least that's how the FAL controller on my CJ works.



Can't help ya on where to tap in.

Thanks for the info. There are a lot of things the controller in my CJ is supposed to do, including start the fans slowly, but doesn’t. Like using the temp probes to kick it on, having the switch manually override to turn it off, and now use the ignition power feed to say when it should be on and off.

I think I am ordering a new one to install.

 

[HackFabrication]

There are a lot of things the controller in my CJ is supposed to do, including start the fans slowly, but doesn’t. Like using the temp probes to kick it on, having the switch manually override to turn it off, and now use the ignition power feed to say when it should be on and off.

I think I am ordering a new one to install.

Yeah. Get in contact with FAL. I know their tech support treated me well when I had a couple of questions on mine.

When the fan(s) first start, you will hear what I can only describe as a 'rattling' sound. The sound fades as the fans spool up, and go to the initial setting rpm. I had to call tech support and ask them if that was the norm, and they confirmed it was. Again, this is because the controller 'hits' the fan motors with brief shots of current to get them initially spinning. On a side note, it is why you can run thinner gauge wire.

The switch to turn the fan ON/OFF/AUTO, is sort of funky. IIRC it grounds the circuit. Which made it difficult for me to use a 'backlit' switch to indicate ON/OFF. I ended up wiring a DPDT switch with two separate LED lights (Amber and Red) to indicate it ON/OFF. With the switch in the middle the fan runs on AUTO.

All in all, I really like the FAL controller.