Engine Rebuilding Question - OK to just Hone?

[RQCinLHT]

I got the engine out of my jeep and completely disassembled. There was no water in the oil, and appears there are no cracks to speak of. The block had already been bored to .040 over on a previous rebuild. The cylinder walls look great, no scratches/gouges, but they do have a .0015/.0020 lip at the top where the wear pattern stops at the top of the stroke. Definitely needs a new crank (rockauto), bearings, rings, valve guides, but the cam & lifters seem fine.

What I'm wondering is, should I risk boring this to .060 over, or just do a good thorough honing of the cylnder walls as they currently are instead? I hate to bore it even further oversize since the rings will just wear a lip into it again, not to mention degrading the integrity of the block with less material remaining. Any of you that have done this before, if you have some thoughts, I'd appreciate it. Thanks

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Use a 'ridge-cutter' to remove the 'ridge'.
Get a hone and LIGHTLY hone the cyls.
Find out where Rockauto gets that crankshaft. Stay away from China .
Why do you need to switch out crank shaft?
Why are you rebuilding this engine?
With the head off-Full valve job and valve seals.
What's the condition of the camshaft?
How did the inside of the oil pan look?
LG

 

[RQCinLHT]

Thanks for the advice LH. This engine burns oil really badly, and misfires on acceleration due to the oil consumption. When I got the head off, the top end of the motor was just as oily as the bottom end. After removed the head, I could easily rotate the crank and piston assemblies with hardly any drag on trying to rotate. The bottom end of the engine and pan looked great, just pure oil on the surfaces, no sign of water or metal shavings.

The crankshaft has some rod journals that are worn down pretty good with ridges, won't maintain oil clearance left in current condition. After I return the core, I'm out for $273.99 for the new reman crank, probably less than getting mine reconditioned. It's from Crankshaft Supply Inc out of MN,

The camshaft visually looks really great, as well as the lifters. I should mic it to check how the lift measures up to what it's supposed to be, i'll do that when I get home later. Timing chain had a lot of slack though, definitely getting replaced.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Before the tear down-Did you run a compression test? This would have told you if it's ring blow-by.
What condition are the rings in? Was the oil ring installed correctly and not upside down(I've seen that a few times-LOL)?
Sounds like you will need a new oil pump.......
LG

 

[jafo]

Just personal preference here but I'd take it in and have the block and heads hot tanked checked for cracks have the heads rebuilt, have them check the cylinders and de-ridge and hone if possible, depends on wear and where.it specs out at. Have them mic the crank, it may only need polished. They should be able to advise on that. What you get out the other end is a properly honed squared up engine with good heads and clean block inside and out. Remeber that not all machine shops are reputable, so ask around and see who does good work. Just my opinion.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If you have a local Jeep CJ club near you. Ask them.
Any shop you speak with-Ask for references.

LG

 

[jafo]

If you have a local Jeep CJ club near you. Ask them.
Any shop you speak with-Ask for references.

LG

Yes. I've seen some pretty shoddy machine shops. Find a good one. Worth their wieght in gold.

 

[jafo]

Also, if you use the old camshaft, make sure you put the lifters back in the same order they came out.

 

[RQCinLHT]

I wish I would've run a compression check. Being how oily the tops of the pistons and bores were, and with how loose the pistons slid in the bore, pretty sure the rings were done. I've got it all loaded up in the truck and am dropping off to a good machine shop I found. Lots of great reviews on them.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

What was the ETA for return?
LG

 

[tarry99]

I wish I would've run a compression check. Being how oily the tops of the pistons and bores were, and with how loose the pistons slid in the bore, pretty sure the rings were done. I've got it all loaded up in the truck and am dropping off to a good machine shop I found. Lots of great reviews on them.

Sounds like the best thing you can do...........Without measuring the bores top to bottom there is no way visually to tell there condition.........Running a leak down test would have told you whether or not the rings were at fault or perhaps leaking valve guides and valves............Good Luck!

 

[jafo]

I wish I would've run a compression check. Being how oily the tops of the pistons and bores were, and with how loose the pistons slid in the bore, pretty sure the rings were done. I've got it all loaded up in the truck and am dropping off to a good machine shop I found. Lots of great reviews on them.

Smart move. You'll be happier in the end.