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Build Thread Father/Son Project in Orlando

Build Thread Father/Son Project in Orlando
Rippin said:
and about a tub, i bet if you put in some time in lookin up all the junkyards around here you could find a decent priced one. I'm goin to a yard today to get parts for another car im working on, ill get a price ona tub for you. I may be needing one too when i get into my rebuild
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I wished I had know you were in the market for one, I bought one on ebay from a guy in Virginia who had two, for $525, I contemplated driving up to pick it up but in the end would have missed a day of work and it wasn't worth it. Shipping was $315 and I paid the guy $200 to take it to the dock so in the end a little more than a grand for what is described as a perfect tub. Had I know you were looking for one I would have driven up and gotten it for you at the same time at cost.

As a side note I do have two tubs you are welcome to look at, one is pretty damaged, the other is repairable with some effort, so you are welcome to it for cheap if you are interested.
 
Rippin said:
sometimes people will bend that washer so that it revents the nut from backing out on its own. And the chewed upnut is a sign of someone that was too cheap to go out and buy a spindle nut remover, instead opting for a hammer and chisel to tap it out and back in.

fyi, If you order new hubs from quadratec (that cheapest place i could find them), they come with races. the customer service guy that i talked to said they didnt, but they do. they were the exact same ones i had gotten from advance auto parts. same part number and everything
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I tried to look up what the races are and was unable to find a reference. Can you explain what that part is, and I was hoping to save the hub assembly but replace the rotors, how do I separate the two or are they pressed into each other? Is this the part you were referring to at quadratec? in other words if I just order the rotors will I need the races too?
 
FiNorman said:
I tried to look up what the races are and was unable to find a reference. Can you explain what that part is, and I was hoping to save the hub assembly but replace the rotors, how do I separate the two or are they pressed into each other? Is this the part you were referring to at quadratec? in other words if I just order the rotors will I need the races too?
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:)Fi,
.........need to knock out the studs.....probably rusted together. The interference fit is loose.
:D:D:D:D
 
FiNorman said:
I tried to look up what the races are and was unable to find a reference. Can you explain what that part is, and I was hoping to save the hub assembly but replace the rotors, how do I separate the two or are they pressed into each other? Is this the part you were referring to at quadratec? in other words if I just order the rotors will I need the races too?
Click to expand...

races are what the wheel bearing sit in

races are shaped like this l\_/l, and the bearings are like this \_/

and yeah they are separate. If i remember correctly, all that was holding mine together were the studs and some rust. I thought they were a one piece deal as well, actually got into a slightly heated duscussion with the guy at autozone about it. I later called and let him know that he was right after I dropped it accidentally and they fell apart lol

Oh and I thought you were still trying to arrange a way to get that tub. I just got back from the junkyard over here and they have 3 or 4 mint yj tubs for 350-500, depending on which one i want
 
Rippin said:
races are what the wheel bearing sit in

races are shaped like this l\_/l, and the bearings are like this \_/

and yeah they are separate. If i remember correctly, all that was holding mine together were the studs and some rust. I thought they were a one piece deal as well, actually got into a slightly heated duscussion with the guy at autozone about it. I later called and let him know that he was right after I dropped it accidentally and they fell apart lol

Oh and I thought you were still trying to arrange a way to get that tub. I just got back from the junkyard over here and they have 3 or 4 mint yj tubs for 350-500, depending on which one i want
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Thats a great find, and a lesson learned. When I asked about the tub at Bee LINe salvage he looked at me like I had a horn growing out of my head, so I figured it would have been useless to keep trying.

What salvage yard did you go to?
 
"I love the smell of napalm in the morning"

every once in a while, life delivers you a little victory that keeps you coming back for more.

So I go to town with a bfh on the studs for the rotors/hub assembly and to my surprise they finally started to come alone and poke out the other side.... now I'm stuck looking at a hub assembly fused to a rotor. I start to bang on the assembly... which eventually comes off.

Now I'm staring at the steering knuckle with the huge castle nut. (for those that are interested 1 and 5/16ths and 1 and 1/8th. of course I didn't have a ratchet big enough to even attempt it so Harbour Freight came through with an adjustable 12 inch wrench for $13. I was really afraid to try this because I was sure I would never get it off and I thought that even if I tried I would strip it. Lucky for me it actually came off with very little effort.

The next great challenge was removing the steering knuckle from the ball joint. I'm sure most of you know about this book by Moses Ludel, The Jeep Cj rebuilders Guide at this point was very helpful. So here is the scene. I'm in my gloves holding the hammer, while my 10 year old son sits next to me on a bucket reading the instructions on where to hit the knuckle to remove. Great hint.... Keep the castle nut flush with the top of the ball joint and strike the nut, every once in a while strike the bottom portion of the knuckle to compact the metal. I was actually just about to give up and hit it one last time in frustration when I saw it move slightly. Bingo!!! we were in.

The rest of the assembly and the axle shafts came out with little effort.

Sebastian removed the dust plates and seemed to genuinely have a good time accomplishing this task although I get the impression he was tired of me telling him to take it easy so he didn't strip the bolts. You know the dirty look your kid gives you when he thinks he knows it all.

The YJ body arrived from Virginia as promised, rust free with a couple of bonuses. It included a master cylinder with the booster, bed liner had been applied but without first scuffing the surface of the floor paint. I found this to be fortuitous for the following reasons.... the liner stuck to the paint enough that it protected the flooring, but it's loose enough that it will easily peel off.

The frame prep is nearly complete. I am ready to paint with POR 15 after wirewheeling the entire surface, cleaning with Marine Clean and prepping with Metal Ready. I need a full day off to apply all three coats.

I also purchased a product from Eastwood called Internal frame coat which I hope will protect the internal portion of the frame from rusting. I will keep you posted on how thats turns out.

Got the new rotors, Calipers, and hubs... I will show some pics when I install them

I have been stuck on this problem since week 1.... while removing the wheels, two of the lug nuts broke off on the back, which wont allow me to remove the wheel. I have tried everything, including knocking them backwards, all it did was mushroom the portion that I was striking. I was getting really desperate so I came up with an innovative solution. I bought a piece of rebar about 3 feet long that fits inside of the broken portion of the lug nut. I then got a fence post driver and struck the remaining lug nut studs back inside. Next I got a titanium 3/4 drill bit and started to drill the lug nut and stud out.... periodically I would stop and strike it with the fence post driver and the rebar.... eventually success, at least in one.... I am still digging out the other but I think I am halfway there... I will post pictures shortly.

If anyone can post some advice about painting the body I would really appreciate it. It's current color is red, but I think we are going with a metallic blue. Should I sand the body, primer over the current paint or take it down to the metal? The inside will be Rhino lined and the bottom Por15 with a uv protectant on top but any advice will help.
 
We finally got the other lug nut/stud to come out... we drilled out what we could but the going was pretty slow... after three days I was starting to think the drill bit wasn't making any progress but I kept on seeing metal filings... very frustrating. Finally after we were about half way through I stood the axle straight up on its end with the tire as a base, tilted it to one side and had Sebastian jump up and down on the tire that was tilted up about 6 inches off the ground. It finally popped off and we were able to save the wheel.

Next we got down to painting the frame with POR 15... We went through the whole process, wire brush to bare metal, marine clean, metal ready and now the painting. Its been about 6 weeks since we started work on it so it's been a long time coming.

For those of you considering using the POR15 I would give you this advice.... don't use any clothes you aren't planning on throwing away, scrub it off your skin as soon as possible because it will stain deeply.

Next we painted the front axle, and some of the metal work we had previously cleaned. It is very easy to apply and after two coats I'm confident we have a good base, we just need to flip the frame over to make sure we didn't miss any parts.

The white stuff on the frame is residue that is left from the Metal Ready solvent we used. After two days we have gotten a better look and it looks awesome. I will post pictures of the finished product shortly.
 
We ran into a little problem that maybe someone can give me advice on. I ordered an Old Man Emu suspension with the new shackle hangers. As attempted to fit the new shackle hangers on I couldn't quite figure out how to make them fit. They didn't seem to fit any of the existing holes. As I inspected the front of the frame where the bumper goes it occurred to me that there are a couple of pieces of metal that I'm starting to think don't belong there, like they were attached by the PO to fit the oversized bumper that was on the jeep. Can someone please look at this and tell me if this is an aftermarket bracket that I can cut off to get the hangers to fit or are is this the way everyones frame is?

The second problem I have is more of a question. While I was prepping the frame for painting I laid it flat on my drive way and noticed the 4 points of contact, being the 4 internal shackle hangers do not touch the ground evenly. Sort of like when you have a table that has one leg too short and it moves, so you stuff a napkin underneath to even it out. It is off by about and inch or inch and a half. Does this mean the frame is bent and should I take it to a body shop to have them attempt to straighten in or is a certain amount of play acceptable.
 
I don't know if these photos will help or not but that's the front of my frame, with the hanger on.
You'll notice all the frames are all identical and can mount the steering box left or right hand drive.

I know welders never use a driveway because it's not as flat as say your garage. But if you're confident the driveway is flat .... mate I'd be pretty worried about the frame being twisted ....

I'm sure there will be guys offer good advice.

Cheers,

Jon
 
JAG811 said:
I don't know if these photos will help or not but that's the front of my frame, with the hanger on.
You'll notice all the frames are all identical and can mount the steering box left or right hand drive.

I know welders never use a driveway because it's not as flat as say your garage. But if you're confident the driveway is flat .... mate I'd be pretty worried about the frame being twisted ....

I'm sure there will be guys offer good advice.

Cheers,

Jon
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Thanks, actually that helps out tremendously.... just out of curiosity do you have an Old Man Emu suspension?
 
FiNorman said:
Thanks, actually that helps out tremendously.... just out of curiosity do you have an Old Man Emu suspension?
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No mate.
Those are "Warrior" hangers.
I bought some 2.5" lift Superlift Springs as the Jeep came with some good 3/4 inch lift shackles. So my lift will end up being a bit of a everything and 3 1/4".

What components make up your OME kit ?? How much lift did you go ??
 
So here are the pictures. The body mount I have figured out because it came in a box marked "body lift".
I'm not sure which shackle hangers go to the front and which is right and left. (I didn't picture one of the hangers in the second pic because it's identical to the one pictured.

there are also hangers that are a different size. I think the bag of bolts is the bushings for the hangers and the smaller bag are the bolts to attach the hangers. If someone can confirm this please do.
 
last components.... I didn't include the U bolts.... am I missing anything. If you can tell me what goes where and in what direction it would be greatly appreciated.
thx
 
Ok so here is a photo of all of my gear lined up in correct direction - Back from the powder coater.
You'll see I can't get mine mixed up as the front two base plates have two pegs and the rear only one each. So they can only be put on upside down ??

Now it looks like your pegs will screw into the base plates. So my guess is you'll have two longer pegs and four the same length. So the plates with four holes are your front, and the pair with just one hole each are for the rear. Put the longer pegs to the front as they are longer to offset for the sway bar .....
I'd assume either side base plates are identical ..

I found this link below but I'm unsure if it's the exact OME kit you have ?? But it might help too ...

http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/18061.pdf
 
JAG811 said:
Ok so here is a photo of all of my gear lined up in correct direction - Back from the powder coater.
You'll see I can't get mine mixed up as the front two base plates have two pegs and the rear only one each. So they can only be put on upside down ??

Now it looks like your pegs will screw into the base plates. So my guess is you'll have two longer pegs and four the same length. So the plates with four holes are your front, and the pair with just one hole each are for the rear. Put the longer pegs to the front as they are longer to offset for the sway bar .....
I'd assume either side base plates are identical ..

I found this link below but I'm unsure if it's the exact OME kit you have ?? But it might help too ...

http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/18061.pdf
Click to expand...

Thank you sir... We army Yanks call these instructions "infantry proof"... and this is exactly what I needed.... I will keep you posted on my progress, once I figure out the issue with my rear drum to disc conversion.
 
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