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Yesterday was a day of grounding... I have a few gauge gremlins, and I know grounds are an inherent weakness on the cj, so I decided to strengthen it up. I removed the current block to negative battery connection. I sanded the area and covered it with dielectric grease. Then I connected a nice 2 gauge wire from the frame to the central location. While i was at it I used a peice of 10 gauge wire and connected to the tub and battery terminal. lastly I ran a 10 gauge from the cluster housing strait to the terminal. Now that in confident in the grounds we can remove that from the equation. I'm still getting hesitation and stalling which are inherent with the Carter Carberator. No worries I got two on the way that I will be rebuilding shortly.
I know it's been awhile since I've checked in. I've been a little busy lately however. I acquired two motorcraft carbs, one is a 2100 and the other is a newer 2150. I purchased a premium level rebuild kit which has every screw, nut,gasket and washer you can want.
Here is some pictures of the carburetor.... The plan for today was to get it disassembled and into the chemical dip to start cleaning her up.
I took a ton of pictures while I was taking it apart... The following is the order in which I removed it... Online it was hard to find specific pictures of the carburetor apart I hope this helps others out there....
Here is the chemical dip I used... The liberal hippies and the EPA took away all the stuff that really works, but this seems to be the next best option...
Came with a nice basket for small parts..
Going to let it sit 24 hrs and we will see what we get...
Just a brief update.... Half of the carb parts have been cleaned. The other half is soaking as you read this.... I'm very impressed with how well it cleaned it...
Just one or two before pics so you see where we are coming from...
Cleaned up...
Then I sprayed out all parts with water per instructions.... Then sprayed out all ports and orpheus with carb cleaner.... Happy with it so far..
Yes worked so much better then I thought... It wasn't that I just pulled it out of the liquid like this I took a rag and really spent time rubbing it up, I used q-tips on the tight areas... Any questions feel free to ask... Not that I'm an expert by any stretch but maybe I can provide some help...
Yes worked so much better then I thought... It wasn't that I just pulled it out of the liquid like this I took a rag and really spent time rubbing it up, I used q-tips on the tight areas... Any questions feel free to ask... Not that I'm an expert by any stretch but maybe I can provide some help...
The reassembly has finally happened it went extremely smooth.... I took a very methodical organized approach.
First I laid out all the parts that I took off the carb originally....
Yes it's a ying ling bock...
Then I matched them up with the new part from the kit.... Putting the old part in a bag.
Then went from there....
First the power valve.
These are notorious for leaking air so I'll have to keep an eye on it... Power valve cover. I went with an 8.5hg instead of 7.5hg I read its more appropriate for the CJ7
Mixture screws..
Rubber umbrella has a name it slips me right now atomizer maybe
Throttle cover
Rod
47 jet... It's what you want
Needle seat
Now I kept the old float just used new hardware.. The new one was brass and I heard they have a tendency to leak...
Top cover in place...
And here you have it.... Looks new in my opinion. The throttle gave me an issue but I sorted it out... I plan on hooking up a manual choke anyway so it should be nice and simple....
In the background you can see a 2150 I have also I plan on restoring that one too... If anyone is interested....
Nice job on the carb, I have really enjoyed your thread. I really needed the pics of your fitting and welding the floor pans in. I just got my replacement pans in a few months back. Looking forward to hearing about the carbs performance.
I did a search the other night for premium rebuild kits and could not come up with one that had new hardware in it. Where did you get your rebuild kit at? it looks real nice you spent some time cleaning it
Much progress was made today... I did some work on the carburetor swap. Let's get started....
Here is where we started.
Air cleaner off...
This is what your left with with the carberator off... Four studs..
Here is the throttle cable bracket...
And the anchor...
Studs removed, I used the old double nut trick. You put two nuts on one stud and turn the lower one and right off they come...
I did some trimming of the gasket.... This will b going between the adapter and the manifold...
The adapter will be held in place with hex head bolt and threadlock...
Adapter in place...
This thick gasket goes in between the adapter and carburetor.
Manual choke setup....
The cable will thread through gold colored bolt...
I had to fab up a little peice to attach a throttle return spring setup...
Bracket for spring
Bolted up and fitting beautiful... I'm very happy with how this all came together.... I had a small fuel leak where the filter and adapter fits. Something that will be easily addressed. I still have to fab up a throttle pull. I'm in the process of tackling that. I did however have it running with the carb it was brief due to the leak but am confident it will run phenomenally...
When I last left you I had a minor fuel leak, due to filters and fitting issues. Also I was working on the throttle return spring, and the choke cable. So let's get started...
I went to the local Home Depot, and got some pipe fittings that should make up the adapter.
I used pro dope on the threads to prevent leaks...
Here is the setup I planned on going with but as we will see later, this didn't work out well... Well go over this later.
The next thing I tackled was the throttle return spring. I'm very happy how this turned out and how clean it came out.
Next up was the choke cable... I put alot of thought into where I wanted to mount the button.
I had to make this bracket in order to secure the other side of the cable. Mounted up perfectly.
Here it is with the button in...
Button pulled out...
I don't plan on running a pcv system.... I'm going to be running a catch can with a drip tube... I don't really like the idea of sucking scumb from the head and reburning it through the carb. This is part of the reason why carburetor get crud in them and get gumbbed up... Here is the pcv port clamped up.
I made this catch can awhile back from pvc pipe. I used some stainless steel mesh so that the vapors will congeal on it, dropping the oil in the catch can.
I also put some new spark plugs in her, gapped to .040
After all this I started it up to find it was still leaking from where the bent hose went into the adapter I made up. I removed that and went straight into the filter fitting. Once fixedThe jeep idled and started up so smoothly it is as if I had an engine swap done. I still need to do a bit more adjustment but I feel this was exactly what I was looking for...
I haven't updated in a little while so I figured it was time to let you guys know what I've been up too.
I bought metal ends for the mirrors.... I do not suggest them to anyone... Had to do a bit of grinding in order to make them fit. There is no good reason for the lack of precision..
Took off the old wipers, slaped on some new ones..
I was having a few issues with the throttle linkage. The original setup was way to long and was designed to be a pull down. I didn't think it was necessary to fabricate complex brackets if I could get a shorter cable. I found the v8 AMC 304 engine had just the cable I was looking for...
Here is a side by side...
Cable pass through..
Cable attached to pedal. Had to grind some material off the pedal so it would reach the throttle on the carb..
Connected up...
I also picked up the rear ledge I need to find the time to weld it in place so I can finally Monsta liner the interior...
There has been something I have been debating for over a month now.... Do I go with a pcv set up or a road draft tube. Both designs have there advantages and disadvantages. Pcv systems suck contaminated vapor from the head and deposit it back into the carb and intake. This spent fuel/oil/water vapor sits deposits on the valves making for a dirty situation. Also pcv are prone to failure where they get stuck in the open position causing a vacuum leak or get stuck in the closed position causing pressure to build up in the engine bursting seals.... I decided to go with a road draft tube. This design has been used for a very long time and wasn't till the late 60's when the tree huggers voiced there opinion that the pcv setup became mandatory. The draft tube is a hose that leads to an angled pipe that sticks in the jet stream under the car. The flow of air over and around the pipe causes a vacuum pulling out the contaminated vapors. Some say there could be "offensive odors" my feeling is nothing that comes from a combustion engine can be offensive.....
Here is some of the materials...
I used Conduit pipe
And hose but forgot to take a picture sorry
Here is what we're working with...
Here is where it hangs...
Another angle notice the angle with the longer side pointed forward
Plumbed in...
I don't know if u remember but there was a slight fuel leak, it's all been resolved.
ton of pictures while I was taking it apart... The following is the order in which I removed it... Online it was hard to find specific pictures of the carburetor apart I hope this helps others out there.... 
