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That is very possible, is it a trial and error thing, what brought you to that conclusion? Does it seem like poor penetration? I'm a novice at welding...
Google welding and images too. Miller has a few pointers. Common problems are moist sticks,dirty materials, machines not adjusted correctly. Haven't touched a welder in 14 years , so try to Google welding and images too. Bad welds are easily fixed, rest and bondo are not.
As I mentioned the other day I wanted to get most of the metal work sooner the later so we could move on to more enjoyable aspects, such as suspension, steering, and drive line..... There was some gaps between the floor pans and sides from the previous repair. The plan was to use angle iron and the fusor product I mentioned earlier.... Here's how it went
Angle steel
Here's the gaps pictures don't do them justice they were ranged in thickness probably between a dime and quarter in some spots..
Here it is mocked up..
All the points were taken down to bare steel, required for good adhesion....
Here it is Lord Fusor 112B.... Basically a two part metal glue.
Quick update.. I'm ramping up for the monstaliner which is in the very near future. Today I removed the seats and the rear seat belts. Vacuumed everything up and then put down some Seam sealer.... I just want to express how easy, smooth, and how well it went down. As a bonus it went much further then expected...
Seats out...
I was worried about the rear belts but the impact made quick work of it...
Two hours of work but I think it's alot of progress.... I decided to Seam sealer every crack joint and angle I could find. This brushable Seam sealer worked even better then tube. Work better really isn't fair but easier to apply it exactly were and how thick you want...
Just a reminder of what it is...
This is an acid brush it's 14¢ at home Depot located in plumbing.. Took me awhile to find
I've been getting ready to lay down the Monstaliner. I did a good bit of sanding and plan on washing and using MEK tomorrow to get it good and dust free....
Picked up an orbital with 120grit pads to speed things up..
Here is some more pictures of the prep leading into the Monstaliner... This is the work over the last three days..
I had to take her outside to hose out all the dust that was in there... While we were out there we took the top off just so it was easier to see...
Brought it back inside left the heater on and the fans to dry it up...
Used a shop vac to suck up and puddles...
Rubbed it down with the MEK once it dried... Little word bout MEK it's awsome stuff cleans better then anything I've used before. However you can't get it at communist Home Depot. They only sell a MEK substitute cause they don't feel you should have the real thing. Now I understand that some people may intend to do vial things with such a product but I don't believe in depriving the legitimate majority, and giving them an inferior product. I was however able to purchase the real deal at Ace.
I had a few places with surface rust... I may have gotten a bit over zealous with this... Lol. It truly is a great product.
This stuff goes on thick. Almost like smearing oil.. And when it dries it's extremely hard like a plastic / glass like texture...
Once this dried a day later I came to it again with the MEK.. This was to give it some tooth.
Then the big guns... This is a 2k primer meaning it's two part. Very similar to what an auto body shop uses in a spray can... How it works is you push a pin on the bottom of the can... And it breaks a canister inside the canister... The two parts mix and the rest is history. The quality, and strength of this 2 part is head and shoulders above any other single part primer....
Excellent coverage...
Stay tuned next step will be the liner but gotta see when mark is free he is real fussy when it comes to paint so it will be his game.
Well here we are poised to start the monstaliner... I have the heat turned on in the garage to get it up to the nice temperature for tomorrow. Minimum temperature is 50° for the first 12 hours. I plan on starting early tomorrow to ensure I get two coats down. I'll be honest I'm a little nervous for tomorrow...
Here is a few pictures of me treating the roll bar ends..
That's how mine looked when I brought her home. Except for the big holes in the floor. I put two new sides on mine and went with it. But then again I got mine off a farm in Texas, It had 4800 miles on it
Well it's done an it looks fantastic. Due to the nature of the product, I'd say it's pretty difficult to mess it up. It's so thick and easy to apply you would need to go out of your way to make it run.... A word of advice, if your considering doing this make sure you buy the miniature 2" roller. There are some tight spots that are made for the roller. Enough talk pictures...
Left the heater in the garage on awhile got it to mid 60s. Needs to be above 50 so should be good.
This is where we started...
Here is the entire kit. It also came with the foam block, I didn't use it but sure someone with a better imagination could figure out what to do with it.... Again the 2" roller is key..
Drill with stirrer a fixed...
Home Depot tray...
It was difficult to hold everything and take pictures but basically, I poured the little can into the big can and stirred it like hell for 6 min..
Next step as per instructions is to hit all the angle or anywhere a roller can't hit. You stab at the area rather then brush it, this gives you a nice texture even with the brush.
Finally had open area to let the 4" roller do its thing...
First coat Complete...
About 5 hours later it was dry to the touch and ready for the second coat... Second coat down its drying as we speak.
I also lined the feet of the roll bar and the Transmission cover...
The way this stuff works is it pulls moisture out of the air to start a chemical reaction to make everything harden up... I added a bucket of water to the room so evaporation will make it a bit more humid in there...
Early tomorrow morning I'll mist the interior to aide the hardening process
I found some time today and was able to get the roll bar all bolted down. I used 5/8"grade 8 and grade 5 hardware. Really is solid now. Check it out...
Some tools fresh drill bit, cutting oil. Cutting oil is key when cutting metal, allows the bit to not over heat and allows it to be used several times.
Some of the bolts in place... Notice the seam... I'll fix that in a bit.
After it was all bolted down I layed a nice bead of Seam sealer down to prevent water from seeping under the roll bar... I think it came out pretty nice...
All set up... Amazing how the roll bar really makes it look like a jeep...