First Jeep, What oil to use?
willycj
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First Jeep, What oil to use?
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ftwflh
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I use a decent 10w40 like Valvoline(Carquest is made by Valvoline)Then every other change I put in a bottle of Lucas oil treatment.These older engine dont need synthetic oil.
Old Dog
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I don't see any reason not to use syn. I vote for Mobil 1 in 10-30.
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In a older motor I use a oil for high mileage in a 10-30 blend.
Mobil 1 for sure. I can't see why using a superior oil would not benefit an older motor. Once you decide, you really shouldn't go back and forth between syn and non syn. Mobil 1 has techical assistance, they have both types of oil, why not ask them....truth be told, either will be fine IMO
ftwflh
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Synthetic is ok if you have the extra $$$$$.But in an old engine with lots of mile and a few oil leaks why spend $6-$8 a qt when $3 a qt will do.Now if you have an engine that has been gone through and want it to last thats a new story.
bondo258
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Bondo and Rustoleum.
Flat tappet motors need higher-Zinc oils. Synthetics have very, very little zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) in them.
Synth will generally kill your old school motor. Visit an old corvette, mustang, or even classic foreign cars. They've talked about this stuff for years. And they're PO'd. Many didn't discover the effects until it was too late.
Don't get me wrong, Synthetic is awesome in modern vehicles, since friction reduction is designed into every part. This wasn't the story years ago. especially where camshafts were concerned. ZDDP allowed this laziness from manufacturers.
Anyhow,
SM rated oils have the lowest zinc levels. Most synths fit this category. Most common Passenger Vehicle Oils are also in this category.
SG rated have signifigantly more zinc, usually double the amounts added to SM oils.
SJ and SL Rated are higher still, aside from specialty racing oils. Zinc additives are available if you prefer a certain brand of oil, and they don't manufacture a high zinc formula.
SH has the most, if you can still find it. hasn't been made in over 15 years, but I've seen it in a few parts houses.
Diesel motor oil has no restrictions on Zinc content. Rotella is the most used by jeepers. Keep the numbers as low as possible. I wouldn't use Rotella in cold winter climates.
you can mix motor oils, they are all compatible with one another.
ZDDP cuts the life of modern catalytic converters in half. Don't bother adding it to New stuff. it's not worth it. The valve-trains are designed much better as well, so zinc isn't nearly as crucial.
ZDDP very significantly reduces metal-to-metal wear such as the camshaft to tappet surface on startup, that's why "classic" motors need it.
Everything today is overhead cam, or roller cam these days, so the zinc reduction doesn't effect over-all engine life.
Google: flat tappet zinc, for more relevant info. bobistheoilguy has lots of good info on the subject, as do many other forums.
Synth will generally kill your old school motor. Visit an old corvette, mustang, or even classic foreign cars. They've talked about this stuff for years. And they're PO'd. Many didn't discover the effects until it was too late.
Don't get me wrong, Synthetic is awesome in modern vehicles, since friction reduction is designed into every part. This wasn't the story years ago. especially where camshafts were concerned. ZDDP allowed this laziness from manufacturers.
Anyhow,
SM rated oils have the lowest zinc levels. Most synths fit this category. Most common Passenger Vehicle Oils are also in this category.
SG rated have signifigantly more zinc, usually double the amounts added to SM oils.
SJ and SL Rated are higher still, aside from specialty racing oils. Zinc additives are available if you prefer a certain brand of oil, and they don't manufacture a high zinc formula.
SH has the most, if you can still find it. hasn't been made in over 15 years, but I've seen it in a few parts houses.
Diesel motor oil has no restrictions on Zinc content. Rotella is the most used by jeepers. Keep the numbers as low as possible. I wouldn't use Rotella in cold winter climates.
you can mix motor oils, they are all compatible with one another.
ZDDP cuts the life of modern catalytic converters in half. Don't bother adding it to New stuff. it's not worth it. The valve-trains are designed much better as well, so zinc isn't nearly as crucial.
ZDDP very significantly reduces metal-to-metal wear such as the camshaft to tappet surface on startup, that's why "classic" motors need it.
Everything today is overhead cam, or roller cam these days, so the zinc reduction doesn't effect over-all engine life.
Google: flat tappet zinc, for more relevant info. bobistheoilguy has lots of good info on the subject, as do many other forums.
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Old Dog
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The problem is Rotella has also reduced the levels of zink in the last few years so it's not as good as it use to be.
There still are some expenceve racing oils out there with the good additive packages.
The thing is I've been running mobil 1 in my truck which has a flat tappet cam for 120,000 miles and it's still going strong.
Maybe I'm just lucky I don't know.
There still are some expenceve racing oils out there with the good additive packages.
The thing is I've been running mobil 1 in my truck which has a flat tappet cam for 120,000 miles and it's still going strong.
Maybe I'm just lucky I don't know.
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Old Dog
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In this case do NOT use syn. use a good brand name and use one of the break-in additives with it.
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I use valvoline 10/30 and Lucas never had a problem
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BONDO258 summed it up pretty good, however even the diesel oils like Rotella have reduced their ZDDP levels in the last couple of years. There are plenty of mail order oils out there like Brad Penn and Summet makes one, there are several others also. I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil (silver bottle) because it is avalible all over town at places like Auto Zone for a reasonable price. In a pinch, you can use some camshaft breakin additive like Howards cams or Lunati sells. To all you flat tappit cam users that don't use this stuff, I'd have to say "Yes, you have been lucky"
hbleconey
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which additive do you recommend if using a 10w40
bondo258
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Run the highest zinc content oil you can find. Read my post on previous page.
Barring that, anything which features ZDDP or Zinc and Phosphorus on the label.
Generic terms like "friction reducer" are not what you seek. The oil has to be circulating for modern friction reducers to do their thing.
The damage happens on start-up, before oil is circulating. The only stuff that clings to your camshaft worth a darn are the zinc/phosphorus particles that "used" to be in all oils.
Don't go by brands so much. Go by content.
If you're really interested......
Motor Oil Wear Test Results – Caution, VERY long - Chevelle Tech
Also, pay close attention to SWHEATON's comments. He has spent a lot of his own money having different oils tested threw the years and IMO is an expert on this subject. "What oil should I use" is a common question here.
Chevelle Tech
Motor Oil Wear Test Results – Caution, VERY long - Chevelle Tech
Also, pay close attention to SWHEATON's comments. He has spent a lot of his own money having different oils tested threw the years and IMO is an expert on this subject. "What oil should I use" is a common question here.
Chevelle Tech
Smokinjoe101
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Just go with a good quality regular 10-40 and add Lucas heavy duty oil treatment and at the same time get a magnet oil plug to see whats floating around next time you change oil.
If you have any leaks at all Synthetic will really leak
sj
If you have any leaks at all Synthetic will really leak
sj
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rr41mag
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And finally a 1981 jeep cj7 258 hardtop
I also have a 1981 jeep CJ7 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . I'm thinking of useing castrol straight 30 weight. I get to read all the bottles at work.
xena1
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I have owned AMC vehicles my entire life and always used Rotella 15-40. It's sold as diesel motor oil, but has all the certifications for gasoline engines. One 360 I had went to 360,000 miles.
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Lucas Oil Magnum 15w-40 with Lucas Oil Stabilizer at 20-25%. I have it in E V E R Y T H I N G and have no issues.
We run it in 30k intervals in all our Kenworth's and Peterbilts (Cat's, Cummins, Paccar).
I run it at 10k intervals in my Chrysler Town & Country, my Sebring and my old 1980 GMC 5.7 Diesel. I also have it in my 1957 John Deere 820 Diesel and just change it when I feel like it, which is probably too often.
The Magnum oil has alot of the stabilizer's additives already blended. If you don't want to use the Magnum oil, use the Stabilzer with whatever you choose at 20-25%.
We run it in 30k intervals in all our Kenworth's and Peterbilts (Cat's, Cummins, Paccar).
I run it at 10k intervals in my Chrysler Town & Country, my Sebring and my old 1980 GMC 5.7 Diesel. I also have it in my 1957 John Deere 820 Diesel and just change it when I feel like it, which is probably too often.
The Magnum oil has alot of the stabilizer's additives already blended. If you don't want to use the Magnum oil, use the Stabilzer with whatever you choose at 20-25%.