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Flywheel Question

Flywheel Question

Oldguyinajeep

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Derby, KS
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'86 CJ-7 258ci 4spd Dana 30 and 44
Howell TBI Fuel inj, Headers, Dual batteries, Warn winch/air compressor, rear
disc brake conversion, Detroit locker (rear), Eaton E-locker (front), 4:10 gears, 2.5 in Rancho lift, 1" body lift, fully armored, 35" BFG KM2s, Warn front hub conversions, line locks front and rear, roll cage, warn front bumper, rock hard rear bumper/tire carrier, DUI ignition, dual electric fans, LED rock lights
Been having nasty starter to flywheel noise for awhile now, and it has recently worsened. Gonna pull the starter and get a peek at the ring gear, but I'm pretty sure I know what I'll find. So...I've read the related posts on this forum and others and have been looking at videos. Looks like a neat project. But I'd like some opinions regarding:

1) Is it necessary to shim the flywheel after having it resurfaced. One video was adamant about this, but it doesn't make sense to me that a couple thousandths could make much difference, and most sources don't even mention it.

2) I've got a perfectly functioning centerforce clutch and pressure plate. Should I not even bother getting the FW resurfaced, or just put it all back together with new bearings? Alternatively, could I resurface and just replace the clutch disc? Can a pressure plate be resurfaced, and should that be done?

3) I guess I'd be okay with replacing everything, but I'm not really sure I'd go back with a centerforce. Mainly because of cost. I've read good things about the Luk clutch set, and would consider it, especially at about a third of the price of the CF,

4) In one of the many posts I read, Lumpy recommended keeping the stock FW, as opposed to buying a new one (I assume it's better quality), and keep the bolts (because of length issues). Some sources say to always replace the bolts. Thoughts?

5) Lastly, would you have a FW balanced at the time of resurfacing? Some high performance forums even advocate balancing with the clutch and PP installed (a little over-the-top for me)

As always, your input is valued and appreciated. Thanks.
 
Resurfacing the flywheel has nothing to do with the starter engagement. There is a .050 shim that can go between the flywheel and the crank to move the flywheel slightly farther away from the starter, but I have never found a reason to install one. You probably have worn out teeth on either the flywheel ring gear, or the starter gear.

If the flywheel has recently been resurfaced, I would leave it alone. But, if you are not sure, resurfacing is cheap insurance. Pressure plates do not get resurfaced. Even if it can be done, the usual weakness in a pressure plate is not the surface, its the springs or diaphragm.
As for replacing the clutch assembly, as you already know, LUK sells a good kit for little money. I've been using one crawling rocks for 3 years now, and it's as good as the day I put it in. Also, if you miss something with your existing clutch assembly and it goes bad, do you really want to pull the Transmission and Transfer Case again for the sake of around $100?

Flywheel bolts should technically be replaced once they have been torqued, but I have often reused the old ones if they are in good condition. Lumpy is right about length though, I had to grind the last set down that I bought to prevent them from extending out of the flywheel and hitting the block when the engine was running.
If there is no vibration when the engine is running, I don't know that re balancing is necessary for a relatively low RPM engine. I have never had a flywheel balanced on any of our Jeep engines.
 
:agree:

No reason to shim.
Replacing the starter ring gear on the flywheel is pretty straight forward.
Make sure you torque to F'wheels bolts to spec, and a drop of red loctite would not be a bad idea..
While you have it all apart-Might as well put a new clutch assembly in and LUK is GTG.
No reason to re-balance, after a re-surface and starter gear change.
You may need an impact wrench, to loosen the bolts.
LG
 
I think that the balancing that you read about might be needed in high revving high performance engines not for a slow turning AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk
 
Well, you guys have confirmed what the little voice in my head has been telling me: New ring gear and starter are probable. Resurface and replace everything with the Luk kit while I'm in there. Thanks to all for the valuable info.

One last question: there are multiple comments about the throw out bearing that comes with the Luk kit. Apparently it's plastic and metal. Some say to pitch it, and buy one that's all metal. Thoughts.
 
I just re-read Lumpy's post and caught the fact that he said replace the
"starter gear". Brilliant! I hadn't even thought of that. I'm an old and old-school Chevy guy, and have replace dozens of starter mounted solenoids and bendixes. I was just going to replace the whole starter, but I'll see if I can find a starter gear somewhere, and dig into the world of jeep starters. Is there a replaceable bushing in the nose, like on GM starters, or anything else that needs replacing while I'm in there?
 
I was referring to the starter ring gear on the f'wheel.
I would also replace the starter motor too.
LG
 
Tranny and Transfer Case are out. Flywheel has been resurfaced. Luk clutch set arrived today. I removed the old pilot bearing, and it was a needle bearing. What came with the Luk set (01-007) were two different sized bushings. Would you guys use these, or find a bearing? Doesn't seem right to replace a bearing with a bushing.

The throw out bearing in the set has the proper inside diameter, and a larger outside diameter than the one I took out. The fork-to-contact surface thickness is the same on both, but the Luk bearing is bulkier and has a grease zerk. I'm tempted to buy a new TO bearing like the old one, just to be sure. Seems like the good price of the Luk set is going to be offset by having to buy two new bearings. Any thoughts?

Also, for anyone else who reads this in the future, O'Reilly has a slide hammer and small pilot bearing removal attachment for loan that works for bearings this size. Just in case you don't want to try the bread, grease, caulk, etc. trick.
 
Bushing was OEM.
Soak the bushing overnight in clean engine oil.
Check bushing fit on input shaft, and install with wood punch/block if you don't have a spare input-shaft.
Torque p'plate bolts to 15 ft/lbs, and use a drop of blue locktite.
LG
 

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