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Front drive flange

Front drive flange

Tectron

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Location
Heber, AZ
Vehicle(s)
1980 CJ7, T176 Trans, 304 CID, 300 tc, Summit HEI Dist, Edelbrock intake, carb and cam, stock diffs 4.56 gears with Front and rear lockrites, Family Cage, 15x10x12.5 BFG MT's, 4" lift.
My front drive Flange on my Dana 30 is buggered up pretty badly, I need to replace it, does it come as a kit including the selecter part when you choose the type you want to run ? I am running Superwinch 6 bolt.
 
My front drive Flange on my Dana 30 is buggered up pretty badly, I need to replace it, does it come as a kit including the selecter part when you choose the brand you want to run ? I am running Superwinch 6 bolt.
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Just order a set of Miler Marker hubs, and all will be good.
LG
 
Just order a set of Miler Marker hubs, and all will be good.
LG

Thanks for the advice, I already got the Warn replacements :) I did read up on hub options warn vs superwinch vs MM, etc, seems they all have good and bad. Someone needs to take the best of all of them and make a real good one.
 
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MM is the best out there-The only hubs that have held up to the D/L in my '30'.
Not made out of the Zinc :dung: the Warn is.
LG
 
MM is the best out there-The only hubs that have held up to the D/L in my '30'.
Not made out of the Zinc :dung: the Warn is.
LG

Absolutely!

I'll be swapping out my Warns for MM when I put the locker up front.
 
Absolutely!

I'll be swapping out my Warns for MM when I put the locker up front.

And use a threaded stud set-up in the wheel hub also.
LG
 
Absolutely!

I'll be swapping out my Warns for MM when I put the locker up front.

Well I hope I haven't made a mistake by going with the Warn ones, and like I stated, I looked at reviews on all of them and there are pro's and cons for all of them, I'll run the Warn for now, if I have issues I guess I'll be trying another brand, more than likely the MM as I just switched from the Superwinch.
 
The studs save the wear and tear on the cast iron threads of the wheel hub.
The studs and nuts should be at least Gd-5.
Torque the nuts to 30-35 ft/lbs.
The cheap zinc used in Warn hubs just compresses under torque of the nut, and that is why they don't stay tight.
LG
 
The studs save the wear and tear on the cast iron threads of the wheel hub.
The studs and nuts should be at least Gd-5.
Torque the nuts to 30-35 ft/lbs.
The cheap zinc used in Warn hubs just compresses under torque of the nut, and that is why they don't stay tight.
LG

With a name like Warn you would think they are aware of that issue and fix it.
 
Looked at that Link, It's just a way to keep the nuts from backing off, correct? So is loctite a bad option?

Yes they keep the bolts from backing off. I wheeled in moab for a week and never had them come loose. Before I bought the stage 8 locking bolts I had a set of these. https://walcks4wd.com/lock-out-hub-lock-washer-kit-warn-hub-only.html They work great but wanted to try something else because they wear out after a few time of bending them. Loctite has never worked that great for me on hubs.
 
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X2 on the stage 8 - we had my Uncles actually fall off while backing into the driveway after a trip wheeling on the rubicon and a 2 hour drive home. Those hub bolts like to back out.

Mine don't :)

Similar to Coldair, since putting them on, not a single issue with pretty hard wheeling. Takes a little getting used to on first install, and little more involved to remove while packing bearings, but the peace of mind that the hubs secure for me is good. Uncle currently checks bolts at each beverage stop on the trail with wrench in glovebox. lol

I haven't looked into the studs LG recomends much, but if he says they're a good alternative too, I tend to believe he knows his goodies.

Any locktite firm enough to stop the force puts a lot of strain on removing the bolts for bearing service, and the "light duty removable" locktite probably won't hold against the forces.

:chug:
 

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