Fuel Gage ?

Fuel Gage ?
Ok I understand about grounding the speedo to the dash. My problem is I have a glass body so how do I ensure that a good ground is on the speedo. Everything works but the temp and fuel.... UGH:bang:
 
You'll have to tie a ground in from somewhere that has battery ground.

If I had a glass body I would run a 10 gauge wire somewhere to the back of the dash and tie in all gauges, lights, etc. to that as a common ground.
 
:agree:That's all I did was run a ground wire to the dash. Your dash is metal right?
 
Re: Made in usa fuel sender for jeep cj and other jeeps

The output of fuel sender can also be tested with a mutlmeter resistance. Tank full will be 10 ohms or close..... Empty Tank, carry some gas in can, then measure emplty will be close to 73ohms. Senders like to loose ground via the little ground wire......... major fault location with jeep fuel indication. Also if you change the sender swap over the brass float they are better. Keep the extra floats that are brass and not leaking if come acrosss one.
that should get you fixed up...

I installed two QT China senders (didn't know about the USA co) and my new SW aftermarket gauge (matched to the CJ stock ohms) doesn't fall much off full mark.

I bought a 10ohm resister.

Not really interested in the Full mark, but empty :)

Question(s).

1. Do I use the 10 ohm and will that also let the gauge read empty as well?

2. Or, do I just buy a 78ohm or combine the two (68/10) and go across the two leads on the gauge so it will read empty or do I need all three like in your post so the gauge will read right all the time?

3. Can I put the resistor where the plug is for the sender just off the tank (I can get to it easier)-if so then I would have to add some tape for H20 intrusion.

New sender/gauge - hoping that just a resistor can fix it.

Thanks, little confused w/the resistor thing/tapping it in-line/on the gauge,
Jim

P.S. I have everything grounded w/grounding studs and #10 stranded wire running to everything. I even have a ground ont he carb and oil cap as well as the painted bumperettes :)
 
Re: Made in usa fuel sender for jeep cj and other jeeps

Jim, I think you should go ahead and try the 10 ohm resistor and see how it works. For finer adjustment just bend the float arm, which is what I did, actually quite a bit.
 
I installed a SW gauge in Ashley's Jeep and we all know about these aftermarket sending units.
So to make sure her gauge is correct I added a 10ohm resister across the "S" and "I" terminal. The gauge did not move. When I remove the resistor then the gauge functions.

I do not have a 73ohm or combination to make that up for an Empty reading.

Question, is that how the resistor is supposed to be hooked up? OR, is it 10ohms to ground - "S" (sender tab) to ground ?

I think her gauge might be reading correctly but we will see.

My gauge does not read right and I do need to add some resistors but if I get the same results as a no read then what?

Thanks,
Jim
 
OK, I put the 10ohm resistor from the "S" terminal to ground and the fuel gauge went way past the "F" mark.

Maybe I need to get a combination and make a 73ohm resistor so it will read right on "E"

Signed heading in the right direction, I think :)
 
These gauges can be frustrating. My fuel gauge was on E for a long while and when I didn't have the $ or time to continue working it, I ended up writing the milage on the windwhield with a grease pencil anytime I gassed up. That was my extreme low cost solution. It helped me keep track of the distance anyway which was little peace of mind. My gauge works fine now but I'm still using the pencil...just in case
 
Agreed, I writ it down but ...........

So the question is to the resistor guru's :notworthy: do I go from the "S" terminal to ground w/the 73ohm to make it read right-I think so but ........
 
Rollbar, from a laymans guess, I would think you would be adding the resistor to the sender itself, rather than to the ignition and sender, this would be the pink wire. A variable resistor like a potentimeter, would give you more control. Make sure the ground connection is grounding of course.
 
I just need to find the Radio Shack part number for the correct Potentiometer, then it will take care of the problem.

I googled it last night and found it on off-road.com but forgot to write the number down :mad:
 

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