Body hard top
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Body hard top
- Thread starter CJ7 81Jeff
- Start date
Solution
TSB8C
Senior Jeeper
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- Cut-n-Shoot, TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1984 CJ7, 420 HP "ZZ6 EFI" Crate engine, 700R4, D300, Dana30 front, Dana489 rear, 4.56 gears, 4" lift
Belizean
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
That is pretty cool
CJ
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'82 CJ8, 258, D300, AMC20, D30
YJ tops fit with some mods. -->> https://jeep-cj.com/community/threads/the-differences-between-a-cj7-and-a-yj-hardtop.3539/
TSB8C
Senior Jeeper
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- 1984 CJ7, 420 HP "ZZ6 EFI" Crate engine, 700R4, D300, Dana30 front, Dana489 rear, 4.56 gears, 4" lift
Yea, no change in tub or top width from '80 to '81. You got something else going on there.
CJ
Admin
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'82 CJ8, 258, D300, AMC20, D30
Can you snap some images?
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- 86 CJ-7, 258, junkyard HEI, Weber DGEV, T5, D300, D30/D44, BDS YJ lift springs, BFG 33x12.5 A/Ts
Pictures would definitely be helpful. How are the gaps around the rear lift gate frame? My top flexed a lot one summer when i stored it on an unlevel woodpile, to the point i had to have someone push/hold it while I got the bolts into the tub. It came back into shape after being on the jeep.
Alright I figured it out, with your unintended prodding. The latches on the back door had rusted so bad that they were pushing the bottom of the Top out. Removed the latches (lost a couple of Tork bits), removed the struts (they were locked solid). Removed ALL the soft top retaining pieces (new to me I wasn't sure what stayed, what went). And wrestled with the heavy a%% top for about an hour until it seated properly. Here's a finished picture.
TSB8C
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Advanced Auto:
Part number: D4418; Collapsed 11" & Extended 17.2"; 40 LBS Rating
Part number: D4514; Collapsed 11" & Extended 17.2"; 55 LBS Rating
McMaster-Carr part number 4138t584
I also read that the struts from a '95 Tahoe work well.
But be careful on a fiberglass hatch. The original stock struts were designed to lift a steel hatch and might be too forceful for a fiberglass hatch.
Part number: D4418; Collapsed 11" & Extended 17.2"; 40 LBS Rating
Part number: D4514; Collapsed 11" & Extended 17.2"; 55 LBS Rating
McMaster-Carr part number 4138t584
I also read that the struts from a '95 Tahoe work well.
But be careful on a fiberglass hatch. The original stock struts were designed to lift a steel hatch and might be too forceful for a fiberglass hatch.
WHATROAD
Senior Jeeper
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- 1984 cj7 RENEGADE, Hard Top, factory air, reman 258 I6, ax15, D 300, D 30, AMC 20 with one piece axle, welded tubes and a searchers truss system, 4.56 gears, 4" lift, BFG 33x12.5x15, DirtWorx front and rear bumpers, rock sliders
You can also try Rudy's jeep parts out of Ohio. He can be a little gruff on the phone but if you need it he probably has it
New struts are in. I used D4514. Thanks Senior Jeepers'!
For those Fab Challenged like me, I popped off the metal clips on the backside of the eyelets, Drilled the hole 1/2 inch and all the way through, removed the rubber washers with their metal sleeves from the liftgate bolts Bolts slid right into the new holes. Work great! I was tempted to reuse the metal sleeves but seems to work smoothly without.
For those Fab Challenged like me, I popped off the metal clips on the backside of the eyelets, Drilled the hole 1/2 inch and all the way through, removed the rubber washers with their metal sleeves from the liftgate bolts Bolts slid right into the new holes. Work great! I was tempted to reuse the metal sleeves but seems to work smoothly without.
