HD steering box mounts/brace

HD steering box mounts/brace
was gonna do the brace and just keep the factory box mount? didnt know if the mount was overkill if you did the brace...and the pdf for the brace says to remove the rear bolt for the hanger, mines snapped oof in the frame?

sorry i meant the hanger on the frame:)

Vickis Laredo has 35s. Let me tell you Ive been going through the whole steering system. I started by getting the beefier rugged ridge tie rod and drag link cause my ends where worn out and it came as a kit. I definately recommend that. When I went to get an alignment they told me the stock 2 piece bracket was loose but the alignment came in.

It turns out that the bolt that was loose was a very difficult to get at reverse Torx bolt. I already had a used Big Daddy bracket so I decided to swap it in. When I took off the old stocker it was rusted and cracked along with that bolt being loose and stripped. I put the new bracket in and used lock tite on the bolts. I then needed another alignment.

The steering was always a little loose and it finally came time now for me to swap the gearbox out. When turned lock to lock Id get a banging sound. I went with an '83 set up so I got a new pump and lines as well. While putting in the new gearbox I notice some stripped threads on the rag joint. :mad: This was probably the cause of the banging from lock to lock. I also had a used steering box brace downstairs I was going to add. Its your standard $90 one you see in all the catalogs. When I removed the 2 "C" clamps off either side of the mount it was cracked at that mounting hole itself. :(

So whats my point for this long winded post? Your Cj came designed for 28 in tires. IMHO you need to upgrade everything. People will chime in and say their 2 piece bracket served them well for years. Thats fine but when it starts to fail its a white knuckle ride for sure at the least. People will say they run without a brace without a problem. I think if your gonna wheel it the added support is easily worth it. From where my used one was broke at I can see the added value in the one JR74CJ5 posted. Once I get the one he posted for my year Cj then Im upgrading the steering shaft itself and the list goes on ...
 
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I'm one of those people that only run a brace and still have the stock 2 piece bracket. (knock on wood) if you have the money though a lot of people claim the stock bracket is a weak point, so why not go ahead and change it.
I believe it's the frame that's the weak point, and the brace helps with the stress put on it.
 
does the RR heavy duty links use the factory tie rods?
 
I would suggest not using factory tie rods with oversize tires. They seem to bend pretty easy off-road. If that is what you are asking.
 
no when i do the brace i was gonna do the flip and get the HD steering links, have seen them come with or with out the end so was curious if you just buy factory rod ends
 
does the RR heavy duty links use the factory tie rods?

No it uses larger diameter ends with the taper of the stock tie rod end. You have to use the rugged ridge ends.
 
Pete, that was the Amazon kit i showed you right?

Comes with the rod ends if so.

At least for my year :D
 
No it uses larger diameter ends with the taper of the stock tie rod end. You have to use the rugged ridge ends.

so buy the kit with the ends from them. and get the inserts for stock tie rods for the flip. They seem to have the best price
 
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Pete, that was the Amazon kit i showed you right?

Comes with the rod ends if so.

At least for my year :D

That's correct. Got the kit like you described.

so buy the kit with the ends from them. and get the inserts for stock tie rods for the flip. They seem to have the best price

Yup. I think Jr put a link for the flip inserts in my build thread for Vicki's 81 Laredo . 81 is still narrow track so don't use the rugged ridge kit number I did
 
Figured Id share why I say upgrade the steering box mount. Heres my stock 2 piece:

brokensteeringmount_zps276826f8.jpg
 
Pete on my front crossmember, there were cracks at all four corners. The oem steering box mount is just fine.
 
Well I will throw my :2 cents: in... I bought the MORE bracket for mine as I plan to run 34/35s on my 7 when its finally done :rolleyes: What a monster, makes the stock :dung: look like sheet metal. I also plan to brace the bottom of the box to my custom front bumper :D
 
I have a MORE Brace and a MORE Bracket with the H1 box. Really nice parts. :chug:
 
x3 with the HD bracket

DSCN2770.jpg
 
:)
The Steering box bracket and the surrounding boxing of the frame is of major importance to keep the gear stable when pushing around even 33" tires. Once off road in Rock when just being up against a rock and engaging the steering can or will bend rims, tie rods & drag links.

I am also a firm believer in a properly installed steering gear brace to the opposite side frame rail from the sector shaft housing. Although most folks and manufactures to not address that brace correctly.........First off that cavity in the housing is just that a hole.......the seal is positioned up about 1" from the base and the bearing which really is the only point of support is another 1/2" above that........so if your brace is just grabbing the base of the Sector Housing you may find yourself replacing that housing someday when it gets cracked or crushed and the seal will no longer do its job. The Brace needs to be positioned up where the bearing is to gain any real strength. Look at these pictures.
I built several of these Braces out of 4130 Chro-mo for some Desert Racing Buddies of mine several years ago that were breaking housings. I also installed a double bearing inside to add strength.......Not a complaint since!
:D:D:D:D
 

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:)
The Steering box bracket and the surrounding boxing of the frame is of major importance to keep the gear stable when pushing around even 33" tires. Once off road in Rock when just being up against a rock and engaging the steering can or will bend rims, tie rods & drag links.

I am also a firm believer in a properly installed steering gear brace to the opposite side frame rail from the sector shaft housing. Although most folks and manufactures to not address that brace correctly.........First off that cavity in the housing is just that a hole.......the seal is positioned up about 1" from the base and the bearing which really is the only point of support is another 1/2" above that........so if your brace is just grabbing the base of the Sector Housing you may find yourself replacing that housing someday when it gets cracked or crushed and the seal will no longer do its job. The Brace needs to be positioned up where the bearing is to gain any real strength. Look at these pictures.
I built several of these Braces out of 4130 Chro-mo for some Desert Racing Buddies of mine several years ago that were breaking housings. I also installed a double bearing inside to add strength.......Not a complaint since!
:D:D:D:D

Wanna sell another one? :D
 
:)
Hi Pete,

If I tool up for another run someday I'll let you know. I built 6 and kept one. There is a few other Racers that have also asked.......It's the set-up time for me and then cutting that ID taper from a piece that starts as solid bar stock...........I have a friend that has a CNC turning center , I need to do a drawing and see what he would charge to turn down a few .......much easier on the CNC than my old method on a Standard Lathe.

Thanks for asking,

:D
 
Tarry-I'll take one also :D
Been run'n the MORE brace for many years with NO issues. YOURS is a work of art in metal. :notworthy:
LG
 

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