Steering Hello everyone Have a need for help

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I wonder if your steering gear overcenter adjustment is too tight. That can interfere with the wheel's return to center.

You say "All 4 are BFG all terrains." So they're Goodrich, and all four have a similar purpose, but I get the hint there that they are not identical model and/or size and/or ply material and/or ply count. Please verify that for me. Could I get you to go around the Jeep with a small notepad and pencil and write down the (fully detailed) specs for each of the four tires, then post those specs here?
 
All tires are BF Goodrich all are identical and with probably less than 5% wear same bat station same bat channel lol Back when I was a kid I over adjusted a box and what a ride! this dont feel like that. One thought I have is the drag link and the steering rod from gear box are parallel and the one from pitman arm to right spindle is perfectly horizontal and level is that ok? should it have some incline? This steering box is the second one the first being manual and this one I put on last week is power and both drive squirrly the same. whats the odds of two bad boxes. this one I chose off a 2wd 86 Cherokee and was nice and clean. I will by gosh figure it out one way or the other. everything is new and done right except the spring and shackle bushings and they are shipped and headed this way. new shocks new sway bushings new tie rod ends new wheel bearings and rotors and this morning I rechecked on two places and I have what looks to be 5.5 degrees of spindle caster. this evening Im going to change pitman arm I have a new omix with zero drop for a stock c7 and the one on it is tight but has idk 2-3'' drop?. takes 10 minutes and I have it so. that will put some incline on the steering arm. and also my steering dampener is good and has resistance push and pull. I also have pitman arm centered when I changed box. it drives better than when I got it but if I was trying to keep a tire on the white line impossible! I told a friend I would let him have these tires for 400.00 and he said yes so I think I want 31x10.50 anyway gearing reasons
 
All 4 are BF Goodrich 33x12.50x15 108Q load range c 6ply rating all 4 as new very minimum wear.
That does give me a idea though That I didnt think of! switch fronts with rears and test drive
 
OK, so we're slowly positively ruling some things out. Don't even think about drag link / tie rod incline, the only time either will be level is when your Jeep is parked on a level surface. When it's working, it'll never be level.

So... you've gone power steering. With the engine STOPPED and the tires pointing straight forward on dry pavement, reach in & jiggle the steering wheel. Is there any significant play in the wheel between the two points where it starts to turn the front wheels? There should be a small amount, maybe three degrees, but not much. Too little means your over-center needs to be adjusted. Too much means you need to track down the looseness.

It'd be a good idea to do the front-rear swap for experientation's sake. If that doesn't help, I'd like to see what happens when you're on (borrowed or bought) stock tires / wheels.

If it DOES help, or just change the freakiness, to do the front-rear swap, then spin each wheel by hand & see if you can see a wave in the tread on one of 'em. I've seen brand-new tires mismanufactured with a significant side wave at one point. Nasty things. It's also possible for a faulty wheel to make a tire wave. Makes for a fun ride.

No ride, though, is as fun as that in a front-wheel-drive car with a tiny bit of dirt or gravel inside one of the CV joints. That's to-die fun! :D
 
Just went and looked with engine not running steering wheel has 1.75 slack left to right before tire starts to turn
 
Ok. That's a little much for all-new suspension/steering parts. You're going to want to follow every inch of the steering, from wheel to tires, with your hands, feeling for looseness at ever possible joint and flex point while someone else pulls the steering wheel left & right with the engine off. That doesn't take much knowhow, only touch sensitivity. When something flexes or slops, you'll feel it, certain as taxes, as an inconsistency between motion at two points. Every time you find one of those sloppy / flexy points, make a note about it and continue on. You might just be amazed how sensitive your sense of touch can be when every other sense you have screams "It's new! It's fine!"... :)
 
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Not to mention that when you find the first one with a little slop, then paranoia sets in and then you REALLY start feeling for it. When you start out you really don’t believe you’ll find one - then BAM.

And he’s right - amazing how sensitive your hands are to out of place movement.


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Well - That helps point you toward everything between the steering wheel and steering box. Keep sniffin........


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Good morning all! Say I didn't come here asking for answers just to leave! Haven't had time to do anything yet work came flying in. I own and operate a boat and power sport repair business and the cooler weather has boat winterize jobs calling in right and left. so I will be back I promise.
 
Dieago said:
This is my first cry for advice Ive read all over google for answers to a steering issue and no help so far.
I have never own a jeep never drove a jeep until now although I have built many cars and trucks from ground up.
I bought this 85 CJ7 and it looked like and drove like :dung:. It kinda wants to wonder around the road. it has 33x12.50's Ive rebuilt whole front I mean everything and added power steering and a brace too new rotors tie rods all new bushings set toe and rechecked twice more. checked caster and its at 6 degrees. is it the big tires? There is not one bit of play or looseness at all. I have ball joints but not changed as I checked the old ones and they are tight. also the steering stabilizer is tight going in and out. Ive nothing to compare too. do they just drive like :dung: with big tires???
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Diego, I got 35's on my 1980 CJ7 ; it drove like it had a death wish until I replaced the ball sockets on both front wheels and rebuilt the front axles. Then a trip to the balance 'n alignment place and all is good. WOrth noting that one tire on the front refused to balance..... I got a new one in its place now.
 
Actually DHugg Ive been so busy I haven't had time to reply to thread. Just got home and seen notification new response to thread. Funny you should mention. Last Sunday evening I tore front spindles off and replaced all 4 ball joints and new axle bearings in spindle and u joints. wheel bearings rotors and brakes I had already done as the tie rod ends too. well the ball joints showed no play but were dry of grease and I think they were galling. I rechecked tow and now it drives way way way better. I had the wife run it up and have it checked and set tow to the T. Caster was 3.9 on right and AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l on left. I still dont understand why steering dont correct itself to center after sharp turn. now it trys a little but not right. Im going to put caster to 6 degrees and try. but now it is driveable. This thing has eat my lunch! Ive rebuilt lots of front ends in 43 years of making a living twisting wrenches and I would have swore ball joints were fine I checked them with a 6' pry bar and seen zero slack and they were tight when removed just bone dry on grease. Changed lots of old chevy uppers when I was a kid and had to beat the rivets out with a hammer and chisel to poor to own a torch.
 
OH! and its now wearing new 31's with less aggressive tread they were 550.00 and I sold the 33's for 400 quick
I like the gearing better with the 31's now too
 
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