holley rebuild

holley rebuild
Just hose running up off the vent tubes of the bowls, you run them vertical into the air cleaner, up near the top of the air cleaner bolt. You tie them up on the bolt. But leave enough room for them to breathe.

I cant find a pic right now...when your bouncing around on a trail, it keeps fuel from splashing out of the bowls and down into the carb, making the motor stumble (and stink).

so you just run fuel line up them. thanks for the idea :chug:

The Holley Off-Road Truck Avenger has this built into the carb. Look at the top of the carb at the upside-down U shaped tube with holes in it. That serves the same purpose. :)

Truck%20Avenger%20intro2.jpg
 
thanks guys so that should make it alittle better offroad. i dont get the jeep on angles much unless im going up hills.
 
ok while i got this thing apart i got a jet? its has jets in it the say 160 i have no clue what size these are. since im just going to run this carb just off the primarys should i jet it like my mc2100 with jets 46-48.

Holley jets are different than Motorcraft. Don't confuse the numbers. I'd stick with what was already in it and see if you need to go a little leaner after you drive it. Unlike the Motorcraft, you can pick up Holley jets at just about any auto parts store.

One tip when putting it back together, with the side pivot float bowls that the 1850 has, be very carefull not to pinch or break the small O-rings that seal the fuel supply tube that goes between the primary and secondary float bowls. I always put a little lithium grease on them so they slide in the holes easier. If you don't have any, you can use dish soap. Don't use regular grease because it eats rubber over time.

When it comes time to set the float level, do them one at a time, staring with the primary float. Take the screw plug out of the side of the float bowl and use a 5/8" wrench and a really large regular screw driver to adjust the level. With the engine running, just slightly loosen the float level screw on top of the bowl so it doesn't spray gas everywhere, then turn the 5/8" nut until gas just barely trickles out of the hole in the side where you removed the site plug. Then tighten down the screw to lock the float level into position. Replace the screw plug in the side of the bowl and move on to the secondary float and repeat.
 
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how do you read the jet numbers. when i was at work looking in the holley book they just had the part# then like .47 or .52 none of them said 160.
 
It has side pivot bowls, not the best for "rough" four wheeling (center pivot works better when on steep inclines, not a big deal unless you get your rig way over on its side).

In most cases you're absolutely right about that. I've seen Holleys with side pivot floats sputter on hill climbs quite a few times. In this case though, he's mounting it on an Offenhouser intake so the carb will be mounted sideways. That should help keep the floats from binding on steep inclines. :)
 
how do you read the jet numbers. when i was at work looking in the holley book they just had the part# then like .47 or .52 none of them said 160.
To be honest, in all my carb building days, I've never bothered to look up exactly what the numbers actually mean. Bigger number means richer. Maybe someone can chime in here and tell both of us what they mean? I ran the jets that the carb came with, and if it was running a little rich, I'd try leaning it out by dropping a size or two and see how it worked out. If you were close to where I live, I'd be happy to loan you a number of different sized jets. I have a whole box filled with different jets and power valves. When I had the Corvette, I'd swap jets between passes down the quarter mile and see how it affected my MPH to know if I was going in the right direction. With the blue reusable gaskets, you can pull the bowl and metering block off repeatedly to try different jets. It only takes 5 minutes to swap them.

That's the one advantage of the MC2100 carb on a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . It's such a common combo that lots of people have done the work of jetting them right and reported on the net what was best. With your Holley, you'll have to play around with it a little. Drive it for a few weeks and check the plugs. If they have a whiteish ash look to them, it's too lean. If they have black gas smelling soot, it's too rich. If they have a slight amber look, it's just right.
 
In most cases you're absolutely right about that. I've seen Holleys with side pivot floats sputter on hill climbs quite a few times. In this case though, he's mounting it on an Offenhouser intake so the carb will be mounted sideways. That should help keep the floats from binding on steep inclines. :)



Thanks for pointing that out, my bad, I didnt realize that was going on a L6, I didnt really know what he was putting it on, I guess I didnt look at his info, I just assumed it was a V8.
 
I stumbled across a great article on Holley Carbs that includes tips and pictures in JP Magazine online. If the link opens to that page that asks for a subscription, go to Jeep Part & Accessory Installations | Suspension Lift Kits, Tires, Wheels, Engine at Jp Magazine and you'll find it. It's the Cheap Avenger article. The carb tuning article on that page is also worth reading because it tells a little about jetting.


Making An Off-Road Carburetor - Jp Magazine

good little read there. i got the bowls rebuilt just waiting to get time to put the gaskets on and button it all back up. just hope i can get the floats set right .
 
do you need to take the mixture screws out for any part of the rebuild?
 
do you need to take the mixture screws out for any part of the rebuild?
Yes take them out so you can blow carb cleaner through the idle circuit holes and get her all clean and ready to idle good. When putting them back in, screw them all the way in, but do not tighten them down or you'll damage them. Just turn them until the barely stop. Then just back them out a turn and a half as the initial setting. Once the engine's started, hook a vaccum gauge up to an unported straight from the manifold vaccum source and turn the idle screws in or out a half turn equally until you're reading the highest vaccum.
 
well i got the carb rebuilt :D now the bad part. when i bought it, it was missing two screws for the primary fuel bowl. so i order some and now found out why 2 where missing. one of the threads is stripped in the main body :(
 
well i got the carb rebuilt :D now the bad part. when i bought it, it was missing two screws for the primary fuel bowl. so i order some and now found out why 2 where missing. one of the threads is stripped in the main body :(
I think I'd be calling the guy back that you bought it from! That's total B.S.!

Anyone know of a good method short of heliarc welding and redrilling/tapping the hole which would warp the body and cause leaks with the metering block? It doesn't need a really strong grip for a fuel bowl. Is it one of the top or bottom screws?
 
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I think I'd be calling the guy back that you bought it from! That's total B.S.!

Anyone know of a good method short of heliarc welding and redrilling/tapping the hole which would warp the body and cause leaks with the metering block? It doesn't need a really strong grip for a fuel bowl. Is it one of the top or bottom screws?

bottom screw. i guess thats what i get for $25. i tried to retap it but theres not enough in it to grab. im going to try a helicoil when i get more money. if not i guess ill ebay a main section.
 
does anyone know a good step by step rebuild of a holley carb. i did a google search and didnt like any i found.

I have a buncha stuff on Holley rebuild. I will put these PDFs into the DOCS section as HOLLEY CARB REBUILD for a title. Some of what you are looking for will be there, I'm sure.
 
I have a buncha stuff on Holley rebuild. I will put these PDFs into the DOCS section as HOLLEY CARB REBUILD for a title. Some of what you are looking for will be there, I'm sure.
He needs either a new main body or a way to fix a stripped out float bowl screw hole.
 
He needs either a new main body or a way to fix a stripped out float bowl screw hole.

I've used three pieces of copper wire that will run to the depth of the screw hold, and flush up just at the flat of the piece the screw hole is tapped into. A good clean screw thread can get a bite on the copper wire, and crush it into the old threads, what may be left.

If you don't really use a gorilla grip to tighten the screw, and have a good new gasket, you can get by.

It was a long way from the farm to town.
 
I've used three pieces of copper wire that will run to the depth of the screw hold, and flush up just at the flat of the piece the screw hole is tapped into. A good clean screw thread can get a bite on the copper wire, and crush it into the old threads, what may be left.

If you don't really use a gorilla grip to tighten the screw, and have a good new gasket, you can get by.

It was a long way from the farm to town.

thanks for the idea. i think a helicoil is the only way. this intake, header, and carb swap is being a pain in the :censored: but everything on this jeep has lol
 
I've used three pieces of copper wire that will run to the depth of the screw hold, and flush up just at the flat of the piece the screw hole is tapped into. A good clean screw thread can get a bite on the copper wire, and crush it into the old threads, what may be left.

If you don't really use a gorilla grip to tighten the screw, and have a good new gasket, you can get by.

It was a long way from the farm to town.
That's not a bad idea. It's not like it takes a lot of pressure to bolt a float bowl on.
 
ok i found another main body but i have a ? this main body is a 3837 the only info i can find on it is it came on a 396cid chevy. can i use this main body and put my baseplate and fuelbowls off my 1850 on it.
 

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