How close is too close?

[billyocup]

I'm trying to get the in-frame Hedman headers mounted - 75 CJ5 - AMC 304 V8. I've run into some clearance issues that I'm slowly working through. On the drivers side I've got to re-route the brake and fuel lines. How far away from the header is adequate? On the passenger side, I've cut the end of the terminal on the starter off and the bolt on the spring mount to get the header to slide in. The header is now clear of the starter by about 1/2", but is still up against the nut on the spring mount. I can probably dent the header tube slightly to gain clearance from the nut, but it's a nylok nut and I'm concerned about melting the nylon in the nut.

Anyone have any experience with in-frame headers or any suggestions?

Thanks, Bill

 

[gert]

1/2 inch sounds about right, the engine will let you know if it's still to close, you might look into wrapping the header tube to keep from cooking the starter though

 

[tarry99]

I'm trying to get the in-frame Hedman headers mounted - 75 CJ5 - AMC 304 V8. I've run into some clearance issues that I'm slowly working through. On the drivers side I've got to re-route the brake and fuel lines. How far away from the header is adequate? On the passenger side, I've cut the end of the terminal on the starter off and the bolt on the spring mount to get the header to slide in. The header is now clear of the starter by about 1/2", but is still up against the nut on the spring mount. I can probably dent the header tube slightly to gain clearance from the nut, but it's a nylok nut and I'm concerned about melting the nylon in the nut.

Billy,

Yep, build many a set to go in different vehicles.....I'm about to do the same here on my 65 CJ getting away from the outside the fender and dropping them down between the frame rails.....The beauty of building them on site is to get away from clearance issues like your having.......One big problem I do see is that motor is on rubber mounts and will probably torque that 1/2" very easily. On mine I put a torque bracket that was mounted to one cylinder head and bolted directly to the frame to limit the engine movement. But even with that with the frame twisting clearance does become a premium.....
Where the one is close to the suspension bolt , you can take and fish-eye a small piece out of the pipe and then take a new piece of pipe and weld a dimple in there.....that little much will not effect any performance.........as far as your brake lines , boiling brake fluid will not work.........that needs to be as far away as you can get that is feasible......you can even built a small heat shield out of sheet metal that helps protect the lines.........a gap of air is the best insulation...........but don't hesitate to get some heat shield tubing and run that piece of brake line through. Just move it as far away as possible.

 

[billyocup]

gert & tarry99 - Thanks for the input. I'm in the process of relocating the brake lines and I think I'll be able to get them at least 6" away from the header tubes. I'm going to try to route the fuel lines through the boxed in prtion of the fram and bring them back out past the header. The passenger side is still tight, but I've got it to where none of the tube actually touch anything. Don't know what will happen when the engine is running. May have to come up with some sort of torque bracket like tarry99 suggested.

Thanks, Bill

 

[jasonmark1993]

Youre on the right track.

Combo of denting the headers, moving stuff, and some heat shielding will work for you.

On applications where I didn't wrap the entire header I bought some flexible heat shields with nice eyelets so i could secure them in place on the header.

 

[Purple77CJ7]

I wrapped all of my fuel lines, brake lines, starter and some wires with thermal wrap. With headers there isn't much room for anything.

Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve - SummitRacing.com
I also wrapped headers. I got the brake lines so hot before I wrapped them I boiled the brake fluid and had no brakes. I also went with a smaller starter, a high torque one, to better fit for clearance.

Thermo-Tec Starter Heat Shield Wraps - SummitRacing.com
I eventually switched to shorty headers, the long tube headers were melting my spring bushings, because they were too close.