how do you water proof your electrical???

how do you water proof your electrical???
raser13

raser13

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festus,MO
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1977 CJ-5 '83 amc 258 straight six, motorcraft 2100 carb ,inline fuel pump, 1000 cca battery ,T-175 tranny,
ok i know that some of you guys like to run through some deep creeks and do some water fording. i've seen lots of jeeps with snorkels on them.so what do you do to water proof all of your chassis electrical? especially your fuse panel and dash wiring? i need to rewire every thing any how on my project '77, might as well water proof it for the future while i'm at it.
 
Im on the same line of thinking there too. Im preparing for the worst as you might say, but one of the things im doing is rewiring everything to be roof mounted, as in all my electrical is off the dash and up on the roof, wires ran through the role cage. But I, like you don't really know exactly which or what type to water proof the eletrical systems including the engine compartment.
 
Water resistant you may be able to accomplish. Water proof, not so much.:D

I think a snorkel will do a great job of delivering cool air but as far as going sub marine, the distributor is the first thing to go under. I have known of guys that pressurized the axles and distributor with on board air to keep water out and I guess enough dielectric grease would keep things dry.

Tell me more about this wiring in the roll bar idea, this is something new to me. I'm trying to understand how you get dash lights and gauges through the roll bar. The whole problem with the wiring is it is hard to get to behind the dash, inside a pipe it will be impossible to reach.:D
 
well the gauges and some dash lights are still on the dash, i guess i should rephrase that...about 75% of the electrical would be on the roof. The gauges will stay, and any needed dash lights, but the idea is to keep the eletrical on the dash to a min. but not too much of an over kill.

hope that helps
 
i was thinking more along the lines of hard soldering every connection to get rid of spade clips and other such connectors. then silicone caulk and some heat shrink on every connection. and possibly putting the fuse panel inside of a water tight box and running silicone wherever the wires came out of the box. haven't figured out how to seal up the gauges or the other dash lights yet but working on it.

and for the differentials wouldn't you just have to make the vent hose longer and put the end up higher in the body of the jeep? maybe run that up into the roll bar? maybe put a one way valve on it?

i'm not talking about making a jeep into a submarine. but i would like to be able to run through a deep creek/ pond that might go as high as the dash and not have to worry about the entire system frying and leaving me neck deep in water,only to have to hike out and call a tow truck that might be able to get back to where i am to get me out.
 
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The fuse box idea is kinda what I'm gonna do. I've got a friend that has miltary (well retired) friends, and I'm gonna put a ammo box on its side. weld it to the fire wall, drill through the bottom (in this case side mount it) and mount the fuses inside and be able to open the case lid, and access it from the front, or top of the box, depending on how you look at. And gromet and silcone the wires that come out.
 
I have a bit of advice for you two junior jeepers.

make it run, make it safe and make it dependable.

then make it unique.

The closer your wiring remains to stock the easier it will be to diagnose problems from a diagram. Most of the problems you will have with a CJ are electrical and vacuum and most of those problems are because some body decided " Hell, I don't need all that junk" or " I can do that better than some highly trained professorial automotive engineer"(translation: I don't understand this so I am going to remove it and hope for the best).:laugh:

make a plan and follow it, this takes some focus, don't get side tracked.

this is meant as encouragement not criticism.:D
 
:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


no seriously guys, point well taken. lol, but again, thats what the PO was gonna do, but i'm kinda on the fence on doing to much modding on it, and you gave me a post to lean on, so to speak.

thx for the tips.
 
no disrespect meant or criticism taken. but the main reason i was planning the water proof upgrade was that the prior owner in their haste to remove the engine,gauges and dash lights(i'm guessing to sell separately) they cut up most of the harness. thus making it where i have to rewire everything any how to do things right. and i figured if i have to go through all of that might as well take the time to do it better while i was at it. i don't plan to re engineer it. just re run everything the same way but try to make the connections more water tight at the same time.

now one guilty admission. i was thinking of getting a fuse panel out of a newer vehicle and swapping that out with the stock one. but that was just so i can get the newer style fuses instead of the harder to find tube type. but that was the only re engineering that i was going to do to the system. so what do you think of my ideas? good? bad? ugly?

if i didn't have to redo the entire wiring for the cj i wouldn't even be contemplating this.
 
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Wiring Terminals and Connectors || Weatherproof Wiring Connectors || Keep It Clean Wiring

I like these connectors

and these relays are great

Search Results

all of it water resistant.

Jeep CJ 1976 1977 COLOR Wiring Diagram 11 x 17 | eBay


this is a great thing to have and it is also water resistant.:D

PCS - Performance Connection Systems, Delphi, Tyco, Deutsch, Bussman, Connectors, Relays, Circuit breakers, wire, terminals


PCS - Performance Connection Systems, Delphi, Tyco, Deutsch, Bussman, Connectors, Relays, Circuit breakers, wire, terminals

Junk Yard Genius.com Table Of Contents

welcome gentlemen, to the path to enlightenment.:cool:

My lights and aux circuit controls and fuses.
I really need to update this picture now that it is cleaned up. What this does is to eliminate all high amp circuits under the dash and more importantly through the dash switches. Lights and aux loads get power from the battery directly through a fuse that can be reached and is water resistant.

Basically you have 4 wiring groups front lights, ignition , dash and tail lights .

Dash lights and gauges are not that complicated , just hard to get to. Do not hesitate to pull the dash away from the tub, it is not as big a deal as you would think and the trick is to hang the passenger side from the windshield with a piece of wire to keep it off the floor. with the dash pulled away it is pretty easy to sort out the dash wiring and the steering column wiring, you can see and touch everything.

side note, if you have the original torx screws in the dash do not try to remove them with an Allen wrench it will strip out. buy the best set of torx drivers you can find, Kobalt, craftsman, snap on. they are well worth the price. Use an impact driver with the 3/8 torx socket to remove these if they put up a fight.

something like this, not an air impact.:cool:

Impact Driver Set | AutoZone.com
 
"Now one guilty admission. i was thinking of getting a fuse panel out of a newer vehicle and swapping that out with the stock one. but that was just so i can get the newer style fuses instead of the harder to find tube type. but that was the only re engineering that i was going to do to the system. so what do you think of my ideas? good? bad? ugly?"

Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f7/how-do-you-water-proof-your-electrical-14689/#ixzz1xywfVroS

I hope the guy that stuck the fuse panel under the dash died with out children and is burning in the darkest deepest circle of hell for eternity.

the 90s Cherokee PDS (power distribution system) shows great promise and is mounted on the fender well. Trick is to find the terminals to put the wire sizes needed in place of what is there. I think Waytek may have those.

If you combine the Cherokee PDS with some decent water tight connectors and put it some place it can be reached you could become a legend.:D

The big trick is to remain true to the original wire diagram so posterity can trouble shoot the electrical and you don't get referred to as that dumbbehind PO.:D
​
 
I went with a Painless waterproof fuse block. Completely sealed and has all the extra circuits I need for my fuel injected 401. ;)

attachment.php
 
I like that fuse set up. It seems a little easier then the harder more complicated way. :chug:
 
One thing - the cover and fuses are water proof (sealed), it's up to the owner to seal the wire loom... :)
 
where did you put the flashers?:cool:
 
raser13 said:
ok i know that some of you guys like to run through some deep creeks and do some water fording. i've seen lots of jeeps with snorkels on them.so what do you do to water proof all of your chassis electrical? especially your fuse panel and dash wiring? i need to rewire every thing any how on my project '77, might as well water proof it for the future while i'm at it.
Click to expand...


The cautions the others helpers gave you is warranted..... making a CJ so it can cross deep water or deep mud is not easy.... There is also a lot of maint to do after you cross deep water also....

Not sure if this was done/shared....
JeepHammer lives in a river area that floods often, locals need help and he is the man.... so he has done lots ot water "protect" his jeep.

JeepHammer WaterProof CJ
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/water-proofing-ignition-axles-hubs-ect-675585/

Some ideas that work well......
JUNK yards on the old caddies and GM products have Waterproff relays in the 20/30 amp range that have sealed relays and weather pack connections.... I have taken the whole plastic mount and splash cover to mount in my CJ. Have not done yet but looks to be a perfect fit for the pass fender or the firewall. Got the whole thiing for $5 or so and have spare one for relays. Take the individual or clusters or 1-2-3 adn take the mount hardware too. These are HQ relays and the price is awsome.

Use the Cup in the Sink/Water trick.....
A box/enclosure with a open bottom will not fill up with water.... So a good box to put the fuse/relays in on the firewall and as long as you stay upright the items inside will stay dry. Example trying to seal multimple wires going into a NEMA 4 or Nema 4x enclousre or the Painless Fuse Box, CJ Poster Showed, will be very difficulty and add the temp cycles and pretty hard to do..... Mount that in a open box that is sealed on other sides will keep the water out..... I have thougth about using this for mtg the MSD Ignition under the dash and put in a open bottom box to keep it dry...

Blow bubbles
for the dist cap, Transmission , transf, axles is the only way to keep the water out.... and keep running.. He also has a great way to add grease to the front axle ends that will keep the water & mudd out longer... Need air compressor and low pres regulator 0-15 psi so it can be set.
MAINT ... Cross water & mud means the Transmission , transf, axles fluids will need to be changed much more often.... maybe even after you are done... Engine oil to maybe if you reach the dist. Front Axle maint on ends too.

Electric Fan/Std FAn
Std fan will make a mess, send water everywhwer and maybe even bend/deflect into the radiator and then you are done. I have a flex fan and no way could it hit water w/o damage to radiator.... Electric fan would be in order also with electric cut off, manual on, and temp control but is a common update.... Search: Contour Electric Fans for Jeep CJ

Sometimes...
Just making the vehicle is an idea for water crossings... JH has a very old Jeep Truck that is very high.... he used that for the water rescue work as an example...... Not saying do this for your CJ, make it tall, but water crossing is not easy to do & there is more maint.

Std boxes are made....Nema 4 & Nema 4x
both good words to search for putting "dry need" stuff into... There are outside enclosures for industrial apps. Come in plastic and metal in many sizes. Usualy have one end that opens.... CJ Fuse Box looks like a std Nema Box.

Weather pack
is a std waterproff connector family that came out in the 80s. They are everywhere.... I am sure they have competiion too but they are the big boys on the block.

Solder..
Yep solder all your connections, but there is more

Solder Use the heatshrink on all the ends and use the ones with internal sealent/goop. YOu will pay dealy for heatshrink with internal goop. So crimp, solder then cover both ends with Heatshrink/W Goop. IF NOT done the water will wick up the wire, corrode the copper surface and it takes a long time to dry out internal under the insualtion. Current travels on the top of copper wire.... once all corroded and it does not carry current well, gets brittle oxidized, and will swell with corrosion at times also. Battery cables, starter cables , winch cables HAVE to have this done or they will fail long before their life ends...

Fill all connections with Dielectric Grease
and must for all of CJ owners....
Work on a connector/ old one unmate/mate connector 8-10 times this will clean the contact surface and oxidies and then fill with dielectri grease and mate for last time.... I do this on all my CJ connections.... Will have a better connections esp on low level/amp/volt signals and keeps the water and dirt and corrosion out of the connector.... , Connectors that have dirt & corrosion, use connector cleaner or alcohol, brush, air to cean the connector.... I even used my basement sink and hand cleaner... let is soak, used tooth brush to work in, HOT WATER Tank TURNED on VERY HOT and rinsed in hot water to clean off the wires/connectors.... Also saw guys put the parts in Dish Washer........ I DO NOT ... DO NOT ... ADVISE THE DISH WASHER CONNECTORS & WIRES HAVE SOLDER/LEAD AND ITS POISION FOR HUMANS AND DOES NOT LEAVE THE BODY IT BUILDS UP... CAUSES BRAIN DAMAGE AND MORE. The dishwasher also exposes the wire to tooooo much water and the wire ends will soak up water and not dry out.... I teach soldering to 1000s and tell them to wash hands before smoking or eatings.... its a big deal. Dielectri Grease use it on all connectors...

Wire Selection....
Higher stands counts are more flexalble and will carry higher current.... the main reason for this thought is the metal type... copper oxidizes in air...... so add water under the insualtion and it worse.... So TINNED COPPER would be good / better to use for your wire harness... Bit more exp but less likely to oxidized... they use tin and its less corrosive... Just a thought..

Boat and Marine need to hold up to weather, splash, salt water adn more... They have fuse boxes, pannes, switches and more that will be needed... Just do a few searches and you will find lots...

Also keep in mind... if you change out a lot of CJ stuff to make better for water or change the glass fuse box.... take them out nicely other CJ owners can use some of this 35 yr old stuff..... by the way I am ok with my glass fuse box.... glass fuses are still easy to get too.

I hope that gives you a better perspective.... it can be done or survive but it will be lots more work and research...

good luck
 
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thanks for the thorough info mn CJ1 ! that was alot of the input i was looking for. this is going to pretty much end up a ground up build from what i can tell. not the drop in a motor and drive shaft and run it build i was hoping it would be when i first looked at it. so i can take my time, do my research and do this puppy up right. i'm not planning on driving through lakes and rivers but it's nice to just know that the jeep could if i needed it to.
 
CJ said:
Another MN drive by...
Click to expand...

??????? What
I have no idea of what help this is.... but looks to be directed in my direction.
 
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