hub bolts

[CJim7]

So we all know that one of the most annoying things about our CJ's is the fact the stock hub bolts always tend to loosen at the most inopportune times......like when the hubs are locked in 4wd. Without checking them periodically, they can shear off completely or even worse, split a hub right in half.

One proposed cure for this is the utilization of studs in place of bolts. the studs should be locktited and nuts/lockwashers utilized.

So I am here to ask: Who here has done this conversion, and has it helped/eliminated the need to constantly tighten down your hubs?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I did this switch many years ago when I installed Mile Marker hubs to work with the Detroit Locker I put in the front.
Used GD8 studs and AN washers with the nylon insert lock nut . Torqued to 35ft/lb and have never had an issue.
LG

 

[HackFabrication]

Stage 8 makes a kit if you don't want to go the stud route.

Stage 8 Manual Locking Hub Fasteners

 

[CJim7]

Stage 8 makes a kit if you don't want to go the stud route.

Stage 8 Manual Locking Hub Fasteners

Those are interesting

 

[Woolyworm]

These are another option - I used them in mine and it cured the problem. And yes, I broke a hub before I did the research and found them.

http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/washers/introduction/

Wooly

 

[CJim7]

These are another option - I used them in mine and it cured the problem. And yes, I broke a hub before I did the research and found them.

Nord-Lock wedge-locking washers | Secure your critical bolted joints with the original lock washer from the bolting experts

Wooly

I might try these....we have a Tacoma Screw located here in town that carries them.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Those Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking Washers really work well on the manifold bolts also.
LG

 

[CJim7]

Those Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking Washers really work well on the manifold bolts also.
LG

The bolts holding the steering gear box on the mount seem to have the same problem. Might be a good place to try them also.

Edit: come to think of it, I can name several hundred bolts on a CJ that would benefit from these washers

 

[IOPort51]

Originally it had bend over washers on the hub bolts. I found som that were close enough to trim up a little and work. Have not had a problem with these since. I tried loktite once and it did not work. I like those wedge washers they look promising.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The biggest reason that the hub bolts loosen up is due to the cheap Zinc based metal that Warn uses in the hub's body.
You would torque to the 35 ft/lb spec and in little time the metal would compress and the bolts loosen.
This was one of the main reasons I went to Mile Marker Hubs.
Respectfully,
LG

 

[CJim7]

The biggest reason that the hub bolts loosen up is due to the cheap Zinc based metal that Warn uses in the hub's body.
You would torque to the 35 ft/lb spec and in little time the metal would compress and the bolts loosen.
This was one of the main reasons I went to Mile Marker Hubs.
Respectfully,
LG

I believe it. I went through two different styles of Warn hubs. Im on Mile Markers now....but I still have the issue. I'm almost afraid the wheel hubs bolt holes are getting too worn out

I think between cheap hub metal and the mechanics and stress put on those bolts, the loosening of them is an eventual unavoidable problem.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Jim-I went to 'studs'. You have to run'em in deep enough so they bottom out and the un-thread'd section is where the lock'n hub 'sits'. I only used 1 lg drop #242 blue locktite on the stud that went into the rotor. Blue will loosen with heat.
I then used GD8 AN washers and heat treated nyloc nuts. The nuts were torqued to a final 35 ft/lbs in 2 steps.
I have never had mine loosen and I'm run'n a DL in the front axle.
LG