I become intimate with a Jeep T-18

[Turbogus]

German cussing heh ausgeseitnet!

 

[IOPort51]

I made a couple of gaskets for the Transmission tonight. I am sure that just about all of you know how to do this in one fashion or another but for anybody that does not, I was doing it and the camera was handy.

Why to do this? Its kind of fun, inexpensive, you can have the gasket right now and not have to order it or maybe sometime the gasket just can't be found. Gasket material is available at just about any parts house, they may not know what is or how to use it but they should be able to find it. I think a roll 12x36 inches was about $6. you need a couple of ball peen hammers. One should be very small, 8 oz or so and the other a bit larger. your going to be tapping the face of one with the other so glasses will be appropriate. a ball bearing makes a good round hole but if you use one that is too big it makes too large a hole. The small ball peen works well but you will have to rotate the head in the hole to cut a clean hole

when you cut a hole put a bolt in it just to hold the paper in position. when all the holes are complete tap around the outside edge to get the profile, use the flat face on the straight and out side corners and use the ball for the inside corners. Do the same to the inside edges and the next thing you know you have a very serviceable gasket.

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Wow, a ball bearing, I always used empty shell casings, a hole punch, scissors and blade.
Nice work.

 

[IOPort51]

A little more T-18 porn, the front bearing retainer.




the first observation is that there is no oil seal< had kind of expected one as it shifts reverse over and down as a later model. On the other hand I was pretty sure the washer inside the input bearing is the oil baffle indicating a labyrinth rather than a seal in the inside of the retainer.

2nd observation, the retainer was sealed to the case with silicone rather than a gasket. this may seal the joint but does not truly support the bearing as even after hand tight the sealing surface has a .001 gap, just right for a gasket, and hopefully a bit more support for the bearing.

 

[IOPort51]

I am going to post this in this thread and I will also be posting a subject specific thread.

The t-18a that I suspect is a 1975 jeep. One of the points of interest is that the assembly drawings indicate that I should have a "spacer ring" between the snap ring and the case where the input bearing enters the case. Mine, as you have it , is absent.

I have noticed that the input shaft has a bit more end play than I would expect which indicates the bearing retainer is not doing a sufficient job of restraining the bearing and/or the roller bearings between the input and the main shaft are incredibly worn.

The rabbit that the snap rind should be the thickness of the snap ring plus a couple thousandths, Mine is about .025 deeper than the snap ring is thick. this allows the bearing to rock.

If I cut a .02 shim to go behing the ring It will give me .05 clearance which should take a lot of play out of the shaft end. This also opens the 3-4 synchronizer up .025

The second possibility is to turn the face of the bearing retainer 025 and make the rabbit shallower. This also has an affect on 3-4 synchronizer.

And the bearings and the races at the input to main shaft point look good.


Now for the really important question, anybody have a trick and cool way of cutting shim stock into a ring whose ID is maybe a 1/4" smaller than the OD ??

I am considering .025 piano wire as well, 3 or four turns but it would be a problem keeping it in position.


I have found a web site that has a great way to cut the shim but it takes a day and a half to make the tooling. A lot of work for one shim, even if it is perfect. I don't see needing another in this life time.

 

[IOPort51]

Made the spacer 3.75" OD, 3.55 and .025 thick. A lot of work, should be able to buy this but I struck out.

 

[IOPort51]

OK just to give this a little kick, here are some shots of the cradle I built to mount to the Transmission jack. It holds everything pretty stable, level and straight. It would have come in handy when I was working on the insides if I had made provisions to hold the transmission with out the TC mounted.

In case I have not mentioned it this is a very heavy gear box. I want everything to line up with no muscle applied but on the torque wrench.



I built the cradle, strapped the tranny on it , found the balance point and bolted the cradle to the jack. Any fine tune is handled by the jack level adjusters.

You may also notice the modified TC shifter shaft, or at least notice the shiny section of pipe on the side of the transmission. Mover the shifter center forward 4" and extender the rod from bell crank to shift rod by 1 3/4". this puts the handle in line with the transmission shift when the TC is in 4 high. I think.

 

[73CJ]

Check your old setup for depth of the input shaft and bell housing.

I once put a T-14 replacing a T-150 (79CJ5) and found the T150 bell housing too shallow. Used the T14 bell housing and bingo.

Just something to consider.

 

[IOPort51]

Check your old setup for depth of the input shaft and bell housing.

I once put a T14 replacing a T150 (79CJ5) and found the T150 bell housing too shallow. Used the T14 bell housing and bingo.

Just something to consider.

the T-18 bell is setting on the floor . out of the picture. thanks for the look out.

 

[Posi]

Well done