I located my major steering problem

I located my major steering problem

Germy

Full Time Jeeper
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Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Vehicle(s)
1985 jeep cj7 360 20 rear and 30 front w/warn lockers 5 speed tranny,

1971 dodge dart built 318
I replaced the ps box, pump, lines, tie rod, hd ps steering bracket, ps box brace. It still had play..... Sooooo.... I had a buddy Jimmy the wheel while I was under it. The front shackles are flexing. They are mounted good, just have a lot of play in the shackle itself. Is this a common wear point? Easy fix? 4 inches, 35's. Thanks!!!
 
I'm looking up shackles. Greasable, non greasable? How do I tell if my current shackles have a lift, 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, 2?
 
Should I replace shackle frame brackets also?
 
Is it the actual shackle, or the bushings in the springs?
 
The sides of the shackle are not bending, they just lean back and forth, bushings?
 
The stock type shackles that do not have a welded brace in the middle will have the bolt hole hog out and become oblong. This will cause what you are describing. If your can do it, go with stock length or nore more than 1 inch longer that stock for a new shackle so you can avoide having camber issues.
 
Do you by chance know the length of stock shackle so I can see what I have. I definitely do not want to go higher. Any suggestions on greasable vs non greasable? Thanks!
 
I believe it is 3 1/2 bolt to bolt stock length. I prefer greaseable like the ConFer units but there are many others on the market.
 
Grab your tape measure. Heres a stocker. Just measure from center hole to center hole. If you have lift shackles every inch longer equals 1/2 inch of lift.

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Do you by chance know the length of stock shackle so I can see what I have. I definitely do not want to go higher. Any suggestions on greasable vs non greasable? Thanks!
 
Nice!!! Thank you!! Any words of wisdom putting them on? I'm just concerned lifting the rig with blocks on the jack.
 
Mine are 3.5 center hole to center hole. So what lift would they be? 1/4 inch doesnt sound right. The shackles are bent btw. Thanks!
 
1/4" would be right. Probally sold as stock replacements.
 
The stock type shackles that do not have a welded brace in the middle will have the bolt hole hog out and become oblong. This will cause what you are describing. If your can do it, go with stock length or nore more than 1 inch longer that stock for a new shackle so you can avoide having camber issues.
To avoid flex you don't want to have shackles that are too long but listen to what Kane has to say. I agree the brace in the shackles is a great idea even if the shackles are a little longer than stock.
 
Yep, I see! I am going to order the stock replacement with a welded brace. I'll post some pics during the install! Any pointers?
 
Oh and don't forget new bushings too. I know your shackles are bent and it really looks like that's where the problem is but I think if you don't replace the bushings now it will be like doing half the job.
Those shackles with the braces will be a little longer than stock but that's okay.
 
Got the shackles on. There is a problem. To get them snug, I had to wrench the :dung: out of them. It is like they were too wide or the spring eye too small. If I would tighten snuggly, they would be loose as hell. What's the deal?
 
Before installing the shackles are they wider than the springs. If so they are not the right shackles. Do you have a lift. Most lift kits use OEM size shackles but that's not always the case.
 
The shackles should be a good fit over the bushings. As Dave said if they are not the same width as the bushings they are the wrong ones, you don't want to have to bend them to get them tight.
 
The steel inner sleeve should be clamped between the shackles when using the welded shackles when tightened.

Most play I ever had was due to worn bushings. The greaseable ones are are great. :)
 

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