Identify Axle . . .

[Old Dog]

The draglink is parallel to the axle (as is the tie rod) when turned from side to side.

As it should be.

 

[ParsonMac]

Here's a proposition: Lots of odd stuff going on there for it to be a Chevy/GM Dana 44 . Like was said already it would need to be shortened a lot to have the same WMS as a CJ. The K20 was SOA and that carrier housing is a SUA housing. The wheel bp from a K20 would be an 8 lug not a 5. I suspect the Dana site may have a typo. So . . . what are the chances of this being a narrow trac pre-78 waggy 44, with Ford spindle's to retain the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern?

 

[BajaEdition]

swapping the spring perch is easy, and putting on new ends when making it narrow would be easy also as you would be putting the old one back on anyway.
I have found little engineering articles about the geometry of the draglink except when the suspension is pushed upward. Found a ton of forums arguing over them, but no engineering articles. So I am at a loss here as to what is correct. I would check all joints for wear and links for straightness. besides that things look good from the info you have provided.

 

[BajaEdition]

I do know I had a bad case OF DW that only showed up once in a while I finally traced to a jamb nut being loose.

 

[Old Dog]

I suspected that it had been narrowed. Another question - we're probably also looking at a different set of disks in front aren't we?

A couple pics of the calipers might help us, although I don't know what they used on the old waggies.
I agree with baja though, I would believe the BOM.

 

[Petescj]

Pretty good. Alot of guys do the Dana 44 swap from J-trucks or Wagoneers. Thought you researched it out to be GM though? Im trying to search this to give you more specific answers. Going back to the drag link Im gonna open a can of worms.

This is my theory and you all may destroy it at will. I love this site and there are Jeepers here that probably have a better understanding of this than I do.

On both my Cjs the drag link is somewhat raised to meet with the steering box. My Scrambler is stock , stock , stock. The CJ7 has 2 1/2 in. lift springs. Heres pics of both. Same angle. Open the debate. School me if Im wrong , I have no problem with it guys.

The first is my CJ7 . Next is the Scrambler.

what are the chances of this being a narrow trac pre-78 waggy 44, with Ford spindle's to retain the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern?

 

[Old Dog]

I'm by no means an expert here, but I do know when you have a big difference as in a 4" lift and no drop pitman arm, you get bump steer.
Mine are on the same angle (close anyway) and it drives great.

 

[BajaEdition]

Pretty good. Alot of guys do the Dana 44 swap from J-trucks or Wagoneers. Thought you researched it out to be GM though? Im trying to search this to give you more specific answers. Going back to the drag link Im gonna open a can of worms.

This is my theory and you all may destroy it at will. I love this site and there are Jeepers here that probably have a better understanding of this than I do.

On both my Cjs the drag link is somewhat raised to meet with the steering box. My Scrambler is stock , stock , stock. The CJ7 has 2 1/2 in. lift springs. Heres pics of both. Same angle. Open the debate. School me if Im wrong , I have no problem with it guys.

The first is my CJ7 . Next is the Scrambler.

yes I think a small upward angle is what most of us have. I am wondering, but cannot prove either way f this angle is important. I have done searches wording it various ways to get a engineer article on the angles. I do know to much angle causes bump steer, an I do know on TJs and JKs you have to match the angle of the Track bar, which we do not have, so you get o DW and that the Track bar and it needs to be in line with certain angles not to get bumpsteer. So we have simular issues, bumpsteer and DW, but where do we find out what angles they need to be and not be to cure such? In other wordsm what are the angles we need to have a degrees of change allowed?

 

[BajaEdition]

I'm by no means an expert here, but I do know when you have a big difference as in a 4" lift and no drop pitman arm, you get bump steer.
Mine are on the same angle (close anyway) and it drives great.

see slightly up. Hummmmmmmm

 

[BajaEdition]

well, it really gets complicated
camber
caster
king pin inclination(covers ball joints)
ackerman angle
toe in
and on and on

I wonder how they get it correct as there are so many angles to consider

Been fun reading about this stuff and have new words to spout when I am passing out my normal bad advice, but wow these guys know what they are doing and we just jack it all up when modding. it is a wonder we can still drive these things.

 

[coldwater]

Pretty good. Alot of guys do the Dana 44 swap from J-trucks or Wagoneers. Thought you researched it out to be GM though? Im trying to search this to give you more specific answers. Going back to the drag link Im gonna open a can of worms.

This is my theory and you all may destroy it at will. I love this site and there are Jeepers here that probably have a better understanding of this than I do.

On both my Cjs the drag link is somewhat raised to meet with the steering box. My Scrambler is stock , stock , stock. The CJ7 has 2 1/2 in. lift springs. Heres pics of both. Same angle. Open the debate. School me if Im wrong , I have no problem with it guys.

The first is my CJ7 . Next is the Scrambler.

Hey Pete, I may be wrong but arent both of those piks showing aftermarket springs?? I could be wrong, God knows there's a hell of a lot I don't know about just about everything!
but anyhoo, I can't remember what any of my stock CJ's looked like, but anytime I stayed at a 2.5" lift everything worked as well as any stock set up. That magic leap to 4" and up however, takes on a whole new perspective. As far as precisely what angle is correct, I don't have that answer. But as long as It tracks straight, holds steady, works safely, and I have no issues, I consider it good to go!

 

[Petescj]

The Scrambler is stock. No lift. Tire size is maximum 31 in. The guy I bought it from used it for landscaping and definitely didn't strike me as the type to put a lift on it. I've never seen any markings on them to lead me to believe they aren't stock. I'll look deeper into it after work. Not sure but maybe Cj-8s had a different spring rate stock? Hmm. The CJ7 has 2 1/2 in. springs to help clear the 33s. Definitely higher than the Scrambler.

Hey Pete, I may be wrong but arent both of those piks showing aftermarket springs??

 

[ParsonMac]

well, it really gets complicated
camber
caster
king pin inclination(covers ball joints)
ackerman angle
toe in
and on and on

I wonder how they get it correct as there are so many angles to consider

Been fun reading about this stuff and have new words to spout when I am passing out my normal bad advice, but wow these guys know what they are doing and we just jack it all up when modding. it is a wonder we can still drive these things.

While researching the mentioned items I came across a suspension & handling glossary at Rockcrawler.com and in the A-Z definitions under "U" you'll find "Upside down and on fire - A situation to be avoided." Just had to pass this on . . .

 

[BajaEdition]

I found reference to metal being bared like you have in the one jont as being an area of abnormal excessive wear. Yea I would say so but what is causing that? Have you tried to have some one cycle the system back and forth as you watched the area in question to see what is causing it to wear as such?

 

[BajaEdition]

here is some good reading
start at chapter 8
A practical approach to motor ... - Google Books

 

[Old Dog]

Here is a pic of where the drag link and tie rod make contact leaving a quarter size worn spot on the tie rod.

One thing is for sure. if you had a little up ward angle this would not be happening. This can not be a good thing going on here.

 

[Petescj]

Interesting read. Thanx. Written by someone with a French backround? Tyres and centre ? Just an observation. Nice link though.

here is some good reading
start at chapter 8
A practical approach to motor ... - Google Books

 

[Petescj]

Agreed. Money was spent to do the axles correct , then the owner finished the job incorrectly? I'll hedge my bet there. Did we ever get an answer on steering issues?

One thing is for sure. if you had a little up ward angle this would not be happening. This can not be a good thing going on here.

 

[Petescj]

Never mind. Found it. Thought I was goin looney there for a minute.

Yes, I do on occasion get a shimmy and I suspect that draglink and tie rod is the problem. You can see a shiny spot on the tierod just opposite the pitman where it rubs the tierod.

 

[ParsonMac]

Still working on the draglink/tierod issue but I did call the previous owner and he indicated to me that that he put Moser axles in the rear. Can anyone tell me about the significance of that?