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'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
You will then need to hand make a plate to screw onto the open area where stepper motor went. Make a gasket also.
I do not recall what the screw size is. It's a #6 coarse thread I think....
LG
You will then need to hand make a plate to screw onto the open area where stepper motor went. Make a gasket also.
I do not recall what the screw size is. It's a #6 coarse thread I think....
LG
What brand are those plugs? Plug 'color' looks fine.
YES-that's the dang horseshoe connector on the coil. They are well known for poor contact issues.
Go to NAPA get a new dizzy cap with brass contacts(NOT alum)rotor, and premium wires along with 6, #985 Autolite spark plugs. Set the gap to .035".
Use a dab of copper antiseize on the SP threads on the install.
I STRONGLY urge you to get a copy of the factory service manual. '82-'83 Jeep Service Manual (Body/Chassis) ? CBJeep
The Haynes and Chilton are not the best.
I would also change the fuel filter and ck ALL oil levels and the color of the oil.
LG
When you say get the cap and button from Napa with the brass contacts, you are talking about stock/factory right? Not a better one off of a different vehicle correct.
Just tell them I need cap with brass contacts, button, premium wires, and #985 autolites for an 1982 CJ7 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ? I know you said earlier not to upgrade till after I get it up and running correctly, which I agree 100%. Just want to make sure I'm not supposed to be getting something for a different/newer year model that will fit with out modifications but is "better".
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Yes-Just make sure the dizzy cap has the brass contacts. Tell the counter guy at NAPA you want the top of the line for all.
Also, get a wire feeler gauge and confirm/set the plug gaps at .035-.038" gap.
Might want to price a coil out so you can switch over to screw down terminals from that dang horseshoe connector.
LG
Yes-Just make sure the dizzy cap has the brass contacts. Tell the counter guy at NAPA you want the top of the line for all.
Also, get a wire feeler gauge and confirm/set the plug gaps at .035-.038" gap.
Might want to price a coil out so you can switch over to screw down terminals from that dang horseshoe connector.
LG
Thank you sir.
My wife is checking on it for me this morning. Hopefully they can get it all figured out.
There use to be two places you could count on for parts in my town, Scoggins and Napa. Scoggins closed several years ago, and the last few times I've been into Napa the folks behind the counter doesn't seem to have a care in the world, and act they don't have a clue what you are asking for.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
When in doubt-Take the old parts for an eye-ball match.
We had 1 NAPA like that. It was a franchise store. NAPA corporate finally shut'em down.
I'm lucky, as I have a NAPA warehouse about 3 miles from me. The counter folks know their stuff.
Good luck,
LG
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
No I don't, as I run a MSD ign set-up.
The screw terminal version is a very common Ford coil.
Do you have the wire crimpers and ring terminals for this coil?
LG
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
I was not aware that a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l distributor cap came with brass contacts, only aluminum. I went to a NAPA#FA136 cap for the brass contacts, Which requires an adapter and different rotor. A custom set of spark plug wires would be a good idea, although I did use a set for a Jeep 4.0 which barely worked. This was all part of the Team Rush upgrade. I would think that Cjordan could use an MSD coil in his CJ. I would also suggest soldering in those terminals for a secure connection.
Well got it all put on. AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l Napa cap with brass contacts FA104. Used an Accel super stack coil part# 8140.
Fired it up and had a slight miss to it. First thought was maybe timing got off a little, then thought nope didn't do anything but stick a button and cap on it, along with plugs, wires, and coil, so jogging should have changed the timing.
My neighbor pulled up about that time and said he thought he could hear fire jumping luckily it was dark, but we could see it. Come to find out we are pretty certain it was the ball in the pcv we heard bouncing around.
Went to pulling plug wires, and it was #1 causing issues, as I was pulling the wire off it smoothed out, then as it came off went back to acting up. Ease the wire back on and it would smooth out again.
Then after messing with it for a little bit, it would run smooth with fast idle response one minute, then missing and cutting out, and would all but die if you hit the throttle the next.
I let it sit there and idle for a while, and it went to running horrible, along with smoking.
Crazy as hell, prior to canging everything it would idle smooth, fast response, everything was good until you get ready to ride then it would bog out if you crowded the gas in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th.
After changing everything it runs like . Was going to put the old #1 plug wire back on, but it won't work with the new cap.
Put my fingers over the hole for the stepper motor, and it would run even rougher, so I'm not for sure if there is any use in going through the trouble of cutting a plate to cap it off.
I ordered the MC2150 Monday, not for sure when it'll be here kinda poor communication on the sellers end.
I was going to put the old ngk back in to see what happens. That's the only wire I used the dielectric grease on. Not saying that caused the problem, but it's kinda odd.
While it was on there and running I did move the wire around, trying to get it to cut out, and expecting to get hit by lightening but I didn't get bit, and it didn't act up.
Just odd how right before the wire snaps in place on the plug it smooths out.
. Was going to put the old #1 plug wire back on, but it won't work with the new cap.