Installed new starter solenoid and... hmmm

[Turbogus]

I had a no start issue with the Echlin solenoid that'd been on 'Black Betty' from the PO. I ran down the diagnostics in my FSM and detirmined that I had a faultly solenoid.
It took some doing to get on account of NAPA's difficulty in getting S.O. parts from outside resources and a delay at the NAPA local warehouse but I finally got a Standard starter solenoid. (As in Standard Motor Products and the Blue Streak line of old)
Upon removing the Echlin solenoid I immediatly saw what was going on.
The contact case seems to be made of aluminum and it was oxidized, and it was bolted to the painted inner fender skirt. What this means is the ground was only via the small bolts holding the thing on

No wonder it failed.
So I took my wire brush attachment to my drill (after moving the wiring out of the way) and had at the patch where the solenoid makes contact. I then applied some dielectric grease to stave off oxidation for the time being.
Opening the package for the SMP solenoid I was dismayed to see they are now being made in China. This, despite my online reseach pointing to manufacture in Ohio, as I recall. Nevertheless this solenoids' contact was solid copper lending to continity for this circuit way better than it's predessor.



In mounting the SMP solenoid I dropped one of the wire brushed and coated bolts (go figure) and it dissapeared into the ether. If I can't find these stubby tapered bolts at NAPA I've got a pair too long in my spares I may have to modify with my bench grinder.
I got some external star washers and some self threading 1/4" bolts but on this go I tied some white thread to the bolts with a slipknot, so if I dropped 'em again I could easily find and retrieve 'em. I reconnected the battery and it arched.

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So I took my trusty rubber mallet and beat on the solenoid for a bit and tried again, no arching. Putting everything back together, tried the key and I could hear the starter running and running even after I shut off the key, so I beat the solenoid with the mallet again (starter stopped) and removed the joined S and I wiring. Hit the key again and there shouldn't have been anything and there wasn't, reconnected only the (S)witch key and tried it again and the starter performed nromally and the engine started. It seems there some kind of feedback of power through the (I) terminal which goes to the coil I think. With the engine firing though, the coil must get it's power by another circuit I reckon.
What troubles me it on the Echlin solenoid the (I) wire was connected to the terminal since I got 'BB' and there wasn't ever an issue like this. Any help/ideas ?
Thanks all and a lift of the lynch lid.

 

[hole]

I just had to replace mine because the plastic housing cracked. It happened at a buddies place, so I went to his local Napa where the parts guy didnt want to hear what it came out of as he said he "knew" what it was. I go back and install it and the starter starts cranking just by turning key on but wont start. I reverse the the wires on S and I and it starts and runs but wouldnt shut off with the key I go back to the Napa and tell the other guy behind the counter what I have and he says the one I was given isnt the right one, but he doesnt have the right one in stock So I drive to my Napa and got the right one, but when I got it installed and went to start it, it just cranked and wouldnt stop until I hit the solenoid. I double checked my connections, all were right,and tried to start it again and it fired right up and works fine now. Not sure why it did what it did, but it seemed to work itself out.

 

[Turbogus]

Thanks Hole,
I read from another forum that owing to tight manufacture of solenoid innards, the tolerances are sometimes too tight and the relay sometimes gets stuck open or closed until they 'wear in'
I drove 'BB' to work this morning with the (I) terminal wire disconnected and in starting her this morn all was working well and the 12 miles commute showed no signs of electical issues.
Still, I'm keeping my trusty rubber mallet under the seat.

 

[Torxhead]

From what I have seen the "Echlin" brand is N.A.P.A.'s top of the line. Looking at that solenoid, it must have cost a lot with all that copper on it. So it sounds like they just needed a little break in time with a few adjustments. Glad you guys got those things to work, and hopefully they will last a long time.

 

[Turbogus]

Yeah, I know what you mean, the Standard Motor Parts CO. and their upper end line Blue Streak was once the stellar standard of automotive electrical parts. This unfortunately seems to have changed with their outrsourceing, which is a pity for those of us with older classic rigs.

 

[Turbogus]

Update: Been commuting all week and it's started up without a hitch, so I guess I'm good to go until I get time to do some more evaluating.

 

[Turbogus]

I've got a length of Excelene welding wire 2/0 gauge I'm going to wire with comin soon. First job will be to address the cobbled together job I attempted with regular battery cable, my vise and soldering gun. Also I chose hexagonal hydraulic crimper it's comin' soon, but I will be soldering the copper lugs anyway. I have some leftover HD shrink tubing (adhesive inside) that I'll finish the job with. If my skill set and crimper holds up, I may upgrade/rewire the rest of the battery and winch lines.

 

[Torxhead]

Installing a 2 gauge wire is almost overkill. For the winch it should be pretty much a minimal size. I have added a 2 ga. to help power the electric fuel pump and computer for the fuel injection. I think it is beyond using a soldering gun and for me I use a small torch to install the terminals.

 

[Turbogus]

The rest of the system is 2/0 gauge (winch, both batteries & solenoid) so I'm just keeping continuity for the most part.

 

[Turbogus]

From my earlier post Crimper showed up and by the weight it seems right solidly built, despite it being made in China.




Also the 12" length of 2 gauge welding wire came in and I almost hate to shorten it for this application, it's so professionally built with the lugs crimped, soldered and shrink tubed, but the 3M shrink wrap I got from Platt Electric a while back is much thicker walled and it has internal adhesive, so I'll have at it over the weekend.

 

[Torxhead]

Sounds like your cable building is the way it should be done, my methods are not quite as good but seem to work. It is nice to have the right tools.

 

[Turbogus]

I was all set to go during my break at work, borrowed some cable cutters from the local hardware store and trimmed the length. Got my soldering kit, heat gun, 3M thick walled shrink tubing and..... Left the lugs in 'Easy Bake' my black Ford panel van.