It's a Gusher!!

It's a Gusher!!
Ya, just keep using stopleak every time you drip a little water, instead of fixing the problem, just like the P.O. of my jeep did, and when it comes time for a new cam or anything else that requires you to drain the block you can spend an hour or so with a hammer and screwdriver trying to clear the drain holes of the 1/2" of cemented stopleak crud that has coated the inside of your block.

The ONLY use for that stuff is emergency repair when there are no other options. Unless you really don't like your motor, that is.

Bushman
 
Ya, just keep using stopleak every time you drip a little water, instead of fixing the problem, just like the P.O. of my jeep did, and when it comes time for a new cam or anything else that requires you to drain the block you can spend an hour or so with a hammer and screwdriver trying to clear the drain holes of the 1/2" of cemented stopleak crud that has coated the inside of your block.

The ONLY use for that stuff is emergency repair when there are no other options. Unless you really don't like your motor, that is.

Bushman

X2 stop leak is NOT a good thing
 
This is definately the rte. Id be going. Had it done myself. Slightly higher price of $65.
with a small pin hole leak, why would you replace the entire radiator? I just had mine rebuilt by a professional shop.
He flushed it, soldered a leak in the lower tank, painted it and straightened out the fins so it looks like brand new.
Total out the door? about $52.00.
 
with a small pin hole leak, why would you replace the entire radiator? I just had mine rebuilt by a professional shop.
He flushed it, soldered a leak in the lower tank, painted it and straightened out the fins so it looks like brand new.
Total out the door? about $52.00.

I remember having a radiator fixed in an old pickup done by a shop about 20 years ago. Like you said, it came back basically brand new. Unfortunately, there aren't any old-fashioned radiator shops left around my area! Anymore, people just seem to either Stop Leak them or replace the entire radiator.

Based upon what everyone has said, I am not going to try the Stop Leak. However, that still leaves trying to repair it myself, or replacing the whole thing. Is soldering the only other repair option?
 
I have to respectfully disagree with IO on this one. I think this is something you can successfully repair yourself.
x2. When I was a broke teenager, and even later in life when I just wasn't about to dump $$ into a :dung: project, I soldered a LOT of radiator holes with perfect results.
 
Has anyone tried the Permatex radiator repair product? It's like an epoxy putty of some type...
 

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I was taught that that junk in the can will plug the same size hole in the block as it will the radiator.
If you decide to try and fix the radiator yourself, try to keep it cool. Have a clean rag handy to help cool the areas around the repair cool enough to not create other problems.
 
Not the best, but I have seen a guy use a potato on a trail fix. I am sure it is not the fix you want....but I did see it happen and it work for at least the rest of the day. He cut it in half and twisted the cut end on the leak. And it stopped leaking....GO figure.....
 
My experience with radiators has been bad but it was an experience. :D
Go for it!! I will be cheering in your corner. :cool:
 
I may try the permatex product just to see if it will do anything. If that doesn't work, I may try the soldering trick. What could it hurt?? Meanwhile, I found another couple spots at the very bottom where my radiator is "weeping", so I just don't think it's long for this world.

Depending upon what web site I look at, some claim that a 2 row radiator was standard OEM, and some say that the 3 row was OEM. Does anybody know if AMC offered an upgrade to a heavy duty radiator as an option on new CJs?
 
One word of advice. When I did buy a replacement for my CJ5 I got it from a local parts place for about $45 less than the best internet price I found. When I say local Im not talking autozone or anything. Check the mom and pop stores if you have any in your area. As far as I know the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l came with the 2 core. With an auto or a/c like on the Laredo package 3 may have been an option but Im not sure.
 
One word of advice. When I did buy a replacement for my CJ5 I got it from a local parts place for about $45 less than the best internet price I found. When I say local Im not talking autozone or anything. Check the mom and pop stores if you have any in your area. As far as I know the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l came with the 2 core. With an auto or a/c like on the Laredo package 3 may have been an option but Im not sure.

Thanks! That's a good idea!
 
Friend of mine got a 3 core for me from NAPA a couple years ago for cost.Think it was about 125 for it but my memory is only 2 core so could be wrong.
Mike
 
The best prices I can find at two different stores put the standard duty 2 row about $40 cheaper than the least expensive 3 row. Since I am not planning to tow anything with this project Jeep, or do anything other than light trail riding and street cruising, is the extra performance of the 3 row worth the extra $40??

Does anybody even know what the real cooling potential difference even is between a 2 row and a 3 row (assuming they have about the same dimensions 15.625" x 24.25", except the 3 row is 1.875" thick while the 2 row is 1.25" thick)?? Both are made by Spectra and both have brass tanks and copper cores.

BTW: I am thinking of going with the 2 row, unless someone can convince me differently...

I should have never flushed out my old radiator. Apparently, the corrosion was the only thing holding it together!!!
 
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When I moved to Arizona my overflow tube on the radiator was always letting out fluid on the 2 core on a 110 degree day.When I changed to a 3 core it stopped.
Mike
 
Guys,

So, I replaced my water pump and flushed the cooling system in my Jeep. Apparently, I did too good of a job because once I fired it back up the radiator decided to pop a pin hole leak right by the upper radiator hose (see picture). It's not a big leak, but it's definitely a leak! Talk about defeat snatched from the jaws of victory!!! :bang:

Is there any way I can plug this leak for awhile until I can get approval from "The Boss" to spend yet more $$ for a new radiator?? And no, I don't have a welder...

JB Weld?

Epoxy?

Bueller? Bueller??

Thanks!


Call a couple of welding shops in your area and ask if they will look at it. I could fix this in 20 mins if you were local.
This is a simple clean it good and put a new bead of solder around it. The only trick is don't let it get too hot.:D
 
with a small pin hole leak, why would you replace the entire radiator? I just had mine rebuilt by a professional shop.
He flushed it, soldered a leak in the lower tank, painted it and straightened out the fins so it looks like brand new.
Total out the door? about $52.00.

X2 on this. Once I was drilling on the front of a pickup. I don't remember what I was doing, but I do remember drilling into the radiator fins. :( I took it to a radiator shop to be fixed. It took several days, but you would have thought I had bought a new radiator. They fixed my screw-up, boiled, straightened and painted the thing (or whatever order they do it). I believe it was somewhere in the $50 range. I was happy as a clam :D. So I would recommend taking it to a shop.
 
I have a 3 row and the engine never goes over 190. in the winter I put card board in front of it sp the heater works better. I am looking forward to using an electric fan but come to think of it the switch on that is for 180 degrees too. We will see how that goes. I vote for the 3 row. :cool:
The best prices I can find at two different stores put the standard duty 2 row about $40 cheaper than the least expensive 3 row. Since I am not planning to tow anything with this project Jeep, or do anything other than light trail riding and street cruising, is the extra performance of the 3 row worth the extra $40??

Does anybody even know what the real cooling potential difference even is between a 2 row and a 3 row (assuming they have about the same dimensions 15.625" x 24.25", except the 3 row is 1.875" thick while the 2 row is 1.25" thick)?? Both are made by Spectra and both have brass tanks and copper cores.

BTW: I am thinking of going with the 2 row, unless someone can convince me differently...

I should have never flushed out my old radiator. Apparently, the corrosion was the only thing holding it together!!!
 
Since your rad is in such bad condition, do yourself a favor, and just replace it. As far as cooling goes, yes, the 3 core is a far better cooler than a 2 core. Look at it this way, you're adding another half hadiator with a 3 core. If you simply cannot afford an upgrade, take it out, let a pro do the job, and be done with it. They will boil it out, strip the tanks, pull the core and throw it out, and resolder a new core to the rebuilt tanks. All for less than a new rad will cost you in most cases.
 

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