Jeep won't stay running (ignition maybe).

Jeep won't stay running (ignition maybe).


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'84 CJ8; AMC360 w/Holley 600 CFM mechanical secondaries; TF-999 Auto; D-300; D-30F/D-44R, '86 CJ7; 258; T-176; D-30F/D-44R; '80 CJ7 304 Stock; '74 CJ5 304 Stock;






I rebuilt the carb/fuel to carb.

Set timing and adjusted while cranking to get her to fire.

Motor fires and stops running (Vroom, then doesn't stay running). I can keep hitting the key and it will fire then in RUN mode it will stop.

Is there a way to jumper the solenoid to the coil so it will stay running to see if it is in fact the ignition switch that maybe causing this?

Any ideas are helpful.

Thanks again,
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OK, using test light only.

1. Key on: nothing on the + coil/solenoid either side.

2. Start: + coil = light; solenoid = light on both sides
running from the battery + over to the coil + is the classic "hot wire".
The switch is up under the dash, It is adjustable relative to the key rod. perhaps loosening it and moving it up will give you run power to the coil.:cool:
It is usually a good idea to disconnect the battery when working under the dash, you never know what is hanging around down under there.:D
Thanks, ya i have it to where I can just pull the + lead off the battery for now while working on it. I know the - would be better but I need to replace the + cable anyway.

So I guess I will see where the rod runs and loosen the switch and .....

I don't know the history of the switch but for 10 bucks @ AZone or 18 bucks @ NAPA, I might as well get another one.

But first I would like to run a test wire to the + side of the coil to see if she will run.

Then I will know if it is the wiring (not the right one to the coil) or the switch.

Has to be one or the other.
It sounds like you have a bad ballast.
What ballast?

I don't have one that I know of on any of my Jeeps.
^^ yea, what ballast?:cool:
Never mind, I just noticed what year we're working on.
At least the compartment is super clean! Looks like a well cared for Jeep.
Jeep won't stay running.

Sorry for all the questions etc.

I also hooked up a test light to the power steering bracket and tested it and it works from there so my grounding should be ok.

1. I ran a wire to the + side of the coil from the battery and as long as I keep the key on it would try to fire but when I let the key go it would not stay running. The starter was keeping it firing/spinning over etc.

2. Without the jumper wire to the + side of the coil it would just go VROOM and die.

3. Below wiring and routing for the Jeep.

4. NOTICE-the brown wire trying in w/the red/white and crimped then going to the solenoid, NOT SURE what that's about.

5. NOTICE-I know I don't need it but I left the old harness incase I wanted to install the I-6 again. Also Notice I just cut the ends off the solenoid and added crimped on ends but left them in their position. Also notice the distributor I hooked that one up and left off the one in the harness as you see at the top. MAYBE I need to use that one ?? But I don't think it has the green wire.

6. Any help would be appreciated even if I have to gut the wires and start over, but I would know where to start.

Solenoid - Note: the blue wire runs to the fire wall block plug.

See the Red/White wire in the loom

Solenoid Red/white wire tied into brown w/green lettering wire running to drivers side compartment

Brown wire w/green lettering @ drivers side block tied into thicker red/white wire. Blue wire from solenoid into block. Notice the blue wire from the other side of the solenoid.

Red thick wire from fire wall block and blue wire to module

Red thick wire tied into the red/white one



No power @ the firewall w/key on. Have power while starting. Going to buy a ignition switch tomorrow and go from there.

1. I installed a new NAPA ignition switch = same problem.

2. Tried w/the Accell coil = same problem.

3. Took Accell coil out and used old coil = same problem. I know it works, I got zapped big time, don't ask how, wife was cranking it over, but i told her to.

4. I have two extra modules, hooked them up, cleaned the modules/fender for a good ground, ran a ground from the battery - to the modules = same problem.

5. Disconnected modules and tried to fire engine, would not fire. That is the only way I know how to check them at the moment unless someone knows a better way etc.

6. Wind blowing about 45+mph and the sand is very bad, had to quit for now.

7. Still have test light when cranking BUT NOT when key in in the ON position.

8. I'm thinking of stripping all the wires out of the looms and ....... I still have the wire looms from the I-6 setup and the computer harness is still there/computer plug in etc and all ends in case someone wanted to restore it back to factory.

9. At this point I think it would be best to get rid of all the extra wire (under the hood) but I don't know how to do that and not mess it up worse.

OK, I ran a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the red wire in the pic below and she ran and idled. When I removed the jumper wire, she died.


I guess I'm gonna have to separate the electrical block at the fire wall and see it any connections are not making contact unless someone else has a better idea.

Thank you again,
I was told this and it seems to be a worth while try:

In the first picture of the solenoid, disconnect both small red and blue wires turn the ignition switch to the run position test them for voltage the one with voltage connect to the coil plus, then turn the ign to the start position the other wire should have voltage only in the start position if thats the case connect that wire back on the solenoid , than the black wire that is disconnected in your picture connects to the opposite side of the solenoid that should be the ground wire , then you should be good to go.


HERE are my findings:

See next post.

.06 volts at coil w/key in the ON position.

W/wires still hooked up to coil = .00

Wires discoed from solenoid.
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OK, I had the kids help me and just to be sure here are the readings one more time and double checked:

Wires discoed from solenoid.

ON POSITION at the Solenoid:
1. Red to + on battery = 12.2v

2. Red to - on battery = 0.6v

3. Blue to + on battery = 12.8v

4. Blue to - on battery = 0.00v

1. Red to + on battery = 10.7v

2. Red to - on battery = 2.0v

3. Blue to + on battery = 0.00v

4. Blue to - on battery = 12.8v
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on the solenoid, which lug is going to the battery/alternator and which is going to the starter. the red wire should be on the back terminal close to the battery and alternator lug and the blue should be on the front terminal close to the starter cable lug.
the black wire is, I think tied into the neutral switch, do you have an automatic transmission?
Check continuity between the blue and red wire on the solenoid and the blue and red wires on the two wire plug on the ignition module.:cool:

"The game is afoot!!"
Sherlock Holmes
I did install a auto 999 but nothing is hooked up to it as far as electrical/back up lights etc.

I'll go out and check w/your post.

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