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'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Wanted to provide an update to things. Got the 5 back from the body shop last week. They did a great job in my opinion on "righting" the rear end. Pulled the metal (the tub is skinned over with sheet metal due to some rot on the original tub). Body shop said it's really not worth trying to repair the original tub, they just rust proofed what was they and buttoned things back up so it won't get any worse. She stays in the garage anyway. Went back to a 5 tailgate as well. Looks much better now. They are going to re-paint the front end in a few weeks so everything will be fresh and clean. Just need to source some tailgate decals now.
Now back to the "Learning Engines" part. Decided to go a little experimental with things for a while on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Nothing crazy, just see what she likes.
Dropped oil and replaced with VR1 20W-50. Here in GA we are high 50s to 60s overnight and up into the 80s during the day. So I think cold starts are ok. Along with the 20W-50, I added 1 qt of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Man that stuff is thick.
Initial start and run, she idles just a touch lower, maybe 50-100 rpms. I am sure that is due to the increase in the oil viscosity. My tick almost went away completely. But comes back as the engine warms and gets to operating temp. But not near what it was before. Hard slow downs and turning the engine off don't really result in light knocks anymore as well.
The only bad parts are that the oil is still getting dirty fairly quick, as well as leaking out of a few places (dipstick base, fuel pump, mechanical pressure gauge port). I am guessing this is just going to be my MO with the #2 cylinder having some decent blow-by. Going to pull the PCV valve again just to make sure it's still free, but I am 98% sure it is. May pull the vacuum lines to it and make sure they aren't clogged. But I bet I would have some different idle symptoms if they were.
So my question to all the engine gurus is, do you think this is asking too much of the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ? Running the 20W-50 (only in the summer) along with the Lucas Oil Stabilizer? Plan to go back to 15W-40 in the winter here in GA. I am thinking my biggest issue will be with cold starts and getting enough lubrication to the top end. Oh, and raiding my wallet for the cost of the VR1, lol.
And last but not least, the more I read and research things, the more I think I might be able to tackle a winter rebuild myself with the help of a decent machine shop. Some of the prices I am quoted to rebuild this one are way more than I paid for the whole Jeep!
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
I run Castrol 20W-50 year round and have done so for 32+ years. We see mid 20's in winter and 110*+ in summer.
Prefer STP(blue bottle)over Lucas as STP has higher ZDDP(Zinc).
A V-8 size can of Restore, will go a long way to stopping that 'tic'.
Set your idle speed, with the headlights on.
LG
Thanks Lumpy. So as I see it here are a couple options for me going forward:
Castrol 20W-50 - $17-18
STP Blue - $3-4
$20 an oil change
VS.
VR1 20W-50 - $30
Lucas - $13
$40 an oil change
Maybe I will try the Castrol and STP Blue next time. Really want to get a combo that I feel the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l in its current state can operate on for a while without breaking the bank.
Was running RotellaT 10W-30, but I think that is too thin for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l at this point in its life.
And when I set my idle speed, I set it to max vacuum using a gauge.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Before you change anydangthing.
Put a can of Restore in. The AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l doesn't mind be'n a bit above the line on the dip-stick.
Just remember to shake the living daylights out of the can for about 1 minute before adding it.
I use it in mine.....
LG
I used a can of the 6 cylinder version a couple of oil changes ago. Felt like it did not do much. So maybe next oil change use the Castrol along with the V8 version of Restore?
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Gotta put some miles on the engine with the Restore.
You could put a 8 cyl can in now. The AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l has a big oil pan.
Then take it for a 50-75 mile drive.....
LG
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
I run the Castrol with 1 blue bottle of STP and V8 size can of Restore. I also have about 120K miles on my engine and it has been run hard in the sand dunes.
Have always put the equivalent of 6qts in my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , with filter change.
I play in the notches out here, and be'n laid over at 30* or so. The extra amount of oil just makes sure I don't suck air into the oil pump.
You shouldn't have an issue........
BUT-The final choice is yours.
LG
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---