lighting and electrical woes

[Lumpy Grits]

Not to over-do this thread, but it's "almost" best just to pretend you have a fiberglass body and just manually ground whatever whenever and wherever you can.

I've wasted more time than I'll ever admit on issues that were ended up being either bad grounds or junk battery cables - even new ones.

X2!!

LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

My long *** post got deleted because I had to reload the page or something. So here goes.

Waiting on a crimp tool because I'm making new cables out of 2/0 cable I had lying around.

Lights all work except front signals on the grill, after I replaced the flasher with a new electronic one. Front driver signal turns on when the switch is pulled out and flashes so dimly that you can only see it if you're right next to it. Otherwise, it's fine, and flashes normally. Front passenger signal doesn't turn on in "park" setting, but flashes like it's supposed to. Going to look at it today, I think it has the wrong bulbs in them and they both need a better ground. Brakes, rear signals and running lights work great now.

Oil pressure gauge was bad. Replaced it, it works great now. Needle kept changing its mind if you tapped the glass.

Voltmeter stopped working. Yellow wire has no voltage regardless of key position. Going to investigate further. If I give the voltmeter 12v from elsewhere, it does register, so I'm going to look at wiring.

Fuel gauge works great with the new sender.

Temp gauge doesn't work, but the "new" sender failed the Strenk pages tests so I got a new one to try first. Wiring acts the way it should and the gauge passed the Strenk test.

So far, the "ground everything" philosophy is working. Going to keep plugging away. Once I finish these things, the horn is next.

Pretty sure I need a few new parts for the horn, though.

 

[gr8dain]

Awesome news. And good luck with the horn. Try the relay first. The PO of mine ran a second horn with a button on the dash. I swapped the relay and boom. Horn worked. Pulled out the aftermarket one.

 

[Torxhead]

Helomedic, that yellow wire for the voltmeter gets its juice through one of the fusible links coming off the battery side of the starter relay. After the voltmeter that yellow wire goes to the windshield wiper fuse, radio, turn signal, hazard flasher, and to the fan fuse.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Anytime you start messing with wiring in a jeep, you should get a good wiring diagram. I think the ones in the service manuals are ok if you have a small problem and you have some experience here. The best solution is what I did. I bought a colored diagram online. I know I've recommended this several times and I should get a commission of some sort from this guy, but it really is the best diagram that I ever found. Really helped me completely rebuild my harness. Prospero's Garage

 

[Helomedic1171]

Awesome news. And good luck with the horn. Try the relay first. The PO of mine ran a second horn with a button on the dash. I swapped the relay and boom. Horn worked. Pulled out the aftermarket one.

There's a relay? I guess now I know what those random relays under the dash and under the hood are for. It's under the dash I'm assuming since that relay under the hood does something with the computer (which I removed). I'll try that, and try cleaning up the round cup-looking thing and the spring plate.

Helomedic, that yellow wire for the voltmeter gets its juice through one of the fusible links coming off the battery side of the starter relay. After the voltmeter that yellow wire goes to the windshield wiper fuse, radio, turn signal, hazard flasher, and to the fan fuse.

I may have fried the fusible link. I'll check those things first. Can I put a 14awg fusible link back in if I did fry it or is that too small?

Anytime you start messing with wiring in a jeep, you should get a good wiring diagram. I think the ones in the service manuals are ok if you have a small problem and you have some experience here. The best solution is what I did. I bought a colored diagram online. I know I've recommended this several times and I should get a commission of some sort from this guy, but it really is the best diagram that I ever found. Really helped me completely rebuild my harness. Prospero's Garage

I'll look into those. Thanks!

 

[gr8dain]

Yep. I found the relay under the dash on the left of the e-brake pedal.

 

[Torxhead]

Helomedic, If you did fry the fusible link, a #14 fusible link should be what it came with along with a #10 wire. I have a #8 wire and a #12 fusible link with a high output alternator and keep a spare handy.

 

[Helomedic1171]

Once again, the "ground every-damned-thing" axiom saves the day. Photos to follow shortly, but I jumpered the horn relay connection and the horn beeps. Loudly. Also I added a nice buss bar under the dash with two brass bolts, a ground strap to the block from the firewall, a nice fat ground cable to the battery from the same connection on the block as the strap, and a 10-gauge wire with soldered and shrunk ends from the buss to the dash via one of the speedo hol down nuts.

Voltmeter works, fuse link is fine, just lost a ground somewhere I think. It now has 12vdc and works right with the yellow wire. Cleaned up the engine bay wiring too, and it looks great... Like a factory pre-computer Jeep. all the gauges work, had to replace the temp gauge, it failed the DARS chart, and now it works. Also, funny story, when I finished those grounds, my heater fan started working. Added bonus!

Still have the issue with the front signals. Gonna try grounds again. Pictures to follow.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You'll most likely will need to 'hard-wire' GND each turn signal housing to the grill. Then 'hard-wire' GND to the fender, then the fender to the firewall.
Hint-Use external star-washers for the GND wiring as it 'bites' into the metal.
Coat with battery terminal spray.
LG

 

[gr8dain]

You'll most likely will need to 'hard-wire' GND each turn signal housing to the grill. Then 'hard-wire' GND to the fender, then the fender to the firewall.

Hint-Use external star-washers for the GND wiring as it 'bites' into the metal.

Coat with battery terminal spray.

LG

What LG said. I was fighting turn signal problems last year. It was the grounding between the bulb and the socket. Cleaned that up and added a ground from the light dish to the grill. All better. I also ran a ground from battery to block to frame (battery cables) and one from the battery to the grill. Fun times with a glass body.

 

[Helomedic1171]

You'll most likely will need to 'hard-wire' GND each turn signal housing to the grill. Then 'hard-wire' GND to the fender, then the fender to the firewall.
Hint-Use external star-washers for the GND wiring as it 'bites' into the metal.
Coat with battery terminal spray.
LG

sweet. I was thinking the grounds there are my next focus. I use the heck out of the star washers, too.

What LG said. I was fighting turn signal problems last year. It was the grounding between the bulb and the socket. Cleaned that up and added a ground from the light dish to the grill. All better. I also ran a ground from battery to block to frame (battery cables) and one from the battery to the grill. Fun times with a glass body.

I can imagine. definitely has its ups and downs. here's what I did:







Still going to add a ground to the alternator, and for the lights on the grill.

Also, what the heck are these two things, and since I nuttered the Jeep, do I need them?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Pic #3 looks like the cylinder head is rub'n on your firewall.

Hope that GND strap isn't pinch'd between the v'cover and the firewall.

GND the ALT to the engine block.
Move your battery GND on the block, to the top mounting bolt of the starter motor.
LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

Pic #3 looks like the cylinder head is rub'n on your firewall.

Hope that GND strap isn't pinch'd between the v'cover and the firewall.

GND the ALT to the engine block.
Move your battery GND on the block, to the top mounting bolt of the starter motor.
LG

I actually did that first. and it didn't work - so I went with this mounting. I'll move it back down there once I finish the grounding loop - another frame to block (not sure if that big ol' strap on the driver side is sufficient) and then a frame to tub. I also need to do the grounds ya'll suggested for the lights in the grill.

The head isn't touching the firewall, it just looks that way in the photo. I have an inch or so there. And the strap isn't pinched or stretched, it's loose around the back. is it ok there? I figured it works on chevies... and it seems to work well here too, but if you have a better idea, I'm willing to try it. I just figured if I can ground everything back together in a logical way, it will help the issues I'm having and keep future ones away.

I took a day or two off from beating on the Jeep, gonna get back at it tomorrow. any ideas as to what those last two gizmos are? I think the thing on the firewall is an emissions device, and the silver thing in the other photo isn't even hooked to anything. any ideas?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

With the space you say you have. That GND strap is fine.
LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

Here's some photos of the valve cover to give you an idea of the space. I went back and looked at it, and I'm kinda wondering. I think it should be fine - but I'm new to Jeepin' and I'd like one of ya'll with more experience to tell me if this is ok.



with some references:



and another - but I can put that tape measure in there from the top, and it slides in there pretty easy. the tab on the tape measure fits snugly between the firewall and the gasket, which is the narrowest point.



the firewall also recesses just after the gasket, and there's quite a bit more room there.

switching gears - in order to repair this wire (see below), should I splice in the weatherpack connector, or just get another coil connector and splice it in, and not worry about that weatherpack? also, I'm assuming that other connector, which I'm not presently using, is for the tach. is that correct? I think I'm going to just taped it up and hide it until I get a tach one day.

 

[Torxhead]

I would say your motor mounts are shot or your body needs to be reset on the frame. That connector could be just hard wired. If you are still using the oem coil slip on connector, I would scrap that also, use a coil with tighten down nuts or even the Ford type coil and hard wire it.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Agree 110% about maybe replacing all engine and tranny mounts. Looks like it has hit the f'wall many times.
One good 'dip' in the road and the engine will flex into the f'wall or the fan hits the radiator.
BTDT-

LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

I would say your motor mounts are shot or your body needs to be reset on the frame. That connector could be just hard wired. If you are still using the oem coil slip on connector, I would scrap that also, use a coil with tighten down nuts or even the Ford type coil and hard wire it.

Also - I'll look for one of those coil mounts. Worst case I can get one of those forde coils (TFI?) At O'Reilly's. The one I need looks kinda like a GM HEI cool, but not in the cap and it has a connector for the coil wire, right? Came on mustangs and trucks and such?

Agree 110% about maybe replacing all engine and tranny mounts. Looks like it has hit the f'wall many times.
One good 'dip' in the road and the engine will flex into the f'wall or the fan hits the radiator.
BTDT-

LG

Come to think of it, pretty sure that's what took out the radiator before we got it. Thanks for the advice! Are poly mounts OK in CJ Jeeps? Or should I go rubber/oem type?

 

[Torxhead]

I have one of those Ford type coils bolted to the bottom of my battery mount and it seems to work just fine for years now. Other guys might have different opinions on it. For those motor mounts there are the ones made by Mountian Off-Road Enterprises with a poly type mounted for the Transmission which I will never have to replace and then there are the other types.
Edit:Look under your CJ at the clutch bell crank, it should be perpendicular to the frame. bad motor mounts will cause the engine/Transmission / Transfer Case to move to the rear. A clutch bell crank that is not perpendicular to the frame will put excessive load on the ball pivot that it mounts on and eventually break it. Seen it happen a few times.