lighting and electrical woes

[Lumpy Grits]

Been run'n a set of these since they came out about 20 yrs ago.
https://www.mountainoffroad.com/jeep-cj.html

Not cheap-Just the best made.
Can you post pictures of your engine and tranny mounts?
LG

 

[HackFabrication]

^^^ m.o.r.e.

 

[Helomedic1171]

here's the photos as requested:







Driver's side:





Passenger's side:







I'm going to measure and see what replacement, new mounts measure. if they're the same, then I probably need the M.O.R.E. mounts or some Poly mounts. I seem to remember that poly mounts tend to raise the powertrain an inch or so over stock in some cars/trucks.

If the stock mounts are taller, I may go with stock-style mounts for now, and get the $230 mounts later on. or, stock style motor mounts for now, and a poly Transmission mount, since that one seems to be the biggest PITA - only have to do it once.

weapons free, folks - tell me what you see/think.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Good pictures-THX.
Do you have the out-board torque mount on the tranny?
See pic. in post #2......
Transmission Mount/Torque Arm set-up
The P/S engine mount is a known problem area. Yours doesn't look good.
LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

Good pictures-THX.
Do you have the out-board torque mount on the tranny?
See pic. in post #2......
Transmission Mount/Torque Arm set-up
The D/S engine mount is a known problem area. Yours doesn't look good.
LG

Honestly, now I'm not sure. I can say this - that post I looked at is not what is installed on the Transmission . it looks like the generic GM-style Transmission mount that gets used on all kinds of stuff out there. I'll try and get under there and take a few more photos in a bit.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The torque mount is the one that's outboard of the main mount with the round snubbers on the steel rod. The mount is off set of the main tranny mount towards the D/S.
LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

The torque mount is the one that's outboard of the main mount with the round snubbers on the steel rod. The mount is off set of the main tranny mount towards the D/S.
LG

I sure felt silly when I got up underneath this time. I laid down on the passenger side, and sure enough, I have the exact same mount as that photo. Can I use one of those generic GM-style mounts and a pair of end link bushings to replace the torque mount? it seems like that's what a lot of guys do when they put in poly bushings, but I figured I'd ask. when I look up "torque arm bushings" I get at least one hit for a pair of end link bushings.

here are the photos:

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The GM will work just fine.
If your gonna go with the MORE set up. Just get everything from them.
Call'em so they know for sure what you want.
BTW: Do you have a copy of the REAL FSM MR252?
Very good to have.
LG

 

[Helomedic1171]

The GM will work just fine.
If your gonna go with the MORE set up. Just get everything from them.
Call'em so they know for sure what you want.
BTW: Do you have a copy of the REAL FSM MR252?
Very good to have.
LG

I'll remember that. I'll go with the GM mount for now and get the MORE setup later. basically, I need to get this thing painted, and I don't want it to kill my radiator or pinch a ground wire between the house and the shop and back. Also, those MORE mounts are really purdy, and I don't want any paint on them

the REAL FSM 252? I thought I did. I downloaded part of it from this site, I think, and the rest from another jeep website. it's broken up by sections in PDF files. I honestly couldn't have figured out the electrical without it to refer to while I was figuring out what questions to ask ya'll. And then without ya'll, well, it would have taken me a lot longer.

 

[Helomedic1171]

Thanks to everyone who took the time to add insight and suggestions - the Jeep runs really great, and other than the horn and that weird thing with the turn signals, it's all running beautifully. The gauges all work, the headlights are nice and bright, and the high beams are even better. the turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights all work and the running lights and side markers are all working. I wired in a new canister coil (pn E70 at O'reilly's, with screw terminals instead of buttons), replaced all the battery and starter cables, and installed some much needed grounds throughout the engine bay. I did the post-Nutter wire removal, removed the computer while I was at it, and replaced the nasty pigtails at each end. I even re-pinned my dimmer switch connector!

I say all of this because without this forum , and all of you folks that chimed in to help me out, I couldn't have done all of this as easily and as quickly as I did. So thanks, many thanks to everyone.

all I have left as far as electrical is:

the horn, and I think it just needs parts

figuring out why the park lamps don't work in parking light mode, but work in headlight mode. if I give them a nice dedicated ground, they still stay lit up. and when I use the turn signal, they flash so dimly you can't see it more than a foot away. very strange.

the 4WD indicator light

and the parking brake light, but te parking brake mechanism is pretty FUBAR, so I'm going to start there.

All in all, not a bad place to be!! I drove it about 10 or 15 miles today, to a local body shop and back, and got plenty of strange looks driving a clapped-out CJ7 with no windshield, doors, or tailgate.

I'll be doing some research for the near-term, though, and wearing out the search button and google - The body guy I went to says that while the tub can be salvaged, we would be money way ahead with a different tub. too many jokers trying 500 patch jobs and then my Dad laid down herculiner before the body work was done, so now it's seriously labor intensive to try and fix any of it because of that stuff stuck to everything. I'm not going to let it get us down, it actually give me piece of mind knowing that some of the rust issues we had won't come back to bite us in the future.

keep on Jeepin',

Helo

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Good to hear your up and run'n.
Please keep us updated.
LG