locker for rear differantial

[graycj7]

I would like to install a locker in my rear differential and would like to know what brands folks out there have used and been happy with. I have been considering the Powertrax lockright.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

The thing to know about a Lockright or any other “lunch box” locker is how they drive on pavement. The locker will push the jeep straight ahead under power so in order to turn you have to be off the power, turn, then power again. Due to this fact they cannot be driven on ice as the back will try to pass the front. Also when going around corners the jeep will skip, hop, and jump at will as the locker engages and disengages. They can be kind of noisy too. All this is OK as long as you go into the install with full knowledge.

 

[Bent]

One thing to keep in mind with the AMC20 is that most lockers that require replacing the differential will also require you to upgrade to one piece axles. This is because most full case lockers don't use a thrust block in the case between the axle shafts like the stock open and Trac-lok differentials. The bearing cones on the two piece design will move out of the cups without a thrust block. The bearings on the one piece design won't.

 

[CJ7nvrstk]

I had one in my AMC20 . Wore it out so it eventually wouldn't unlock. It ended up breaking the carrier. The poor handling characteristics listed above are true. I'll never put one in a DD again.

Worked great off road.

 

[hole]

Everything everyone said above! It's great offroad but I'm glad mines not a DD

 

[007]

Isn't the truetrac or perhaps an arb or ox another option for being a DD?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[somedude922]

I have a lockright in mine and I barely notice it. Road manners are fine.

 

[graycj7]

What other options do I have besides the locker style.

 

[Torxhead]

In the front of my CJ I have an ARB which is called a switchable type locker. It is controlled by a small air compressor to turn on and off a solenoid in the diff. I can have it as a full on locker or operate as an open diff. It would be easily streetable for the front or rear axle. There are other switchable types but I am not really familiar with them.

 

[Bent]

I have a Torsen differential out of a HMMWV AMC20 . Military surplus. Works pretty good. You can almost lock it up with a couple clicks on the e brake. You need to have a little machine work done to use gears lower than 3.08 though. I have some pictures in my gallery of the differential installed. You can pick em up pretty cheap.

 

[graycj7]

Thank you for all the reply's. I was looking at electric actuated units at Summit racing they sound like they are the way to go when it comes to the rear differential. But their expensive.

 

[Woolyworm]

I've been thinking about this for awhile as well. I have an Aussie in the front and love it. It really helps steer out of and up over rocks ledge ruts etc. I am concerned about DD issues with one in the back and am leaning towards a Detroit true trac even though it's not a full locker. Buddy's I have run them and love em. I know guys with every type of selectable and almost all of them complain they have engagement issues of one sort or the other but think I would go to an OX based on what I've heard and read.


Wooly

 

[CJim7]

I've been running Lockrights front and rear for years in my CJ7 . Yes, there is a driving characteristic to them that is unique and unsettling until you get used to it.
Two things to keep in mind with this locker. 1) the Lockright is extremely dependent on case tolerance. If your case is worn, don't go with this locker as it will exhibit strange operating quirks and fail quickly. 2) all locking differentials are sensitive to equal tire pressure, equal tire wear, etc. The Lockright seems to be more so. It's imperative to keep your rear tires at equal pressure and if one tire exhibits more wear then the other, rotate it out.

Overall however, I've been extremely happy with them. The onroad driving, as I said, takes some getting used to particularly taking corners, and offroad they function as advertised.

 

[graycj7]

Thanks for the info on running the lockright. I have an aussie up front that the previous owner installed. I don't think it would matter if I put a lockright in the rear axle.

 

[mriplaybass]

Thank you for all the reply's. I was looking at electric actuated units at Summit racing they sound like they are the way to go when it comes to the rear differential. But their expensive.

We have Eaton E lockers front and rear, Dana 30 /Dana 44 . Pricey, yes, but worth every penny. Great to have all wheels pulling on demand. No problems with engagement / disengagement, just need to remember not to shift on the fly, below 3mph only. Got them from Summit.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Been run'n for the last 20+ yrs front and rear Detroit Lockers. They're strong simple and work with out extra gadgets that can fail.
LG

 

[Old Dog]

I also like my Eaton E-locker, I'm not sure they make one for the 20 though.

 

[Fastatv]

I would like to install a locker in my rear differential and would like to know what brands folks out there have used and been happy with. I have been considering the Powertrax lockright.

I have been running the "Lokkar" lunch box locker in my rear diff for a couple of years now. I haven't noticed any driveability issues that have been mentioned here and at driving speeds around curves, say 40 to 45 mph, no jerkiness and I really can't hear the locker "click" because of the tire noise...
Anyway, good luck with your choice.