major t150 problems

[hondo]

been having some problems with my t AMC 150 , started with a bad input bearing replaced it with new along with the output bearing (when i reassembled this time the snap ring at the front of the input shaft broke and i was in a hurry so i used one that was loose in the groove). then i put it back together along with resurfaced flywheel and new clutch drove it for a few day then i started getting grinding going into 1st and reverse. i assumed it was because the snap ring was allowing the gears to move to much so i pulled it again and replaced it. this time when i put it back the clutch didn't feel quite right but i started driving it anyways. today i started getting the same symptoms. the sychros all looked good and none of the gears were exsessively ground. is there anything else that could be causing this other than sychros. thanks

 

[Lumpy Grits]

How much clutch pedal freeplay, do you have?
LG

 

[hondo]

i start feeling pressure right away then there is a long area before it engages then there is a slight bump and a higher pressure area. it is a brand new diaphram style

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That tells nut'n.
Measure from where the pedal sits. To when you first feel resistance. You want 1-1 1/4" of easy movement. No more and no less.
LG

 

[hondo]

i adjusted the clutch and it seemed to fix the problem. ill test drive it as soon as i can fix the brakes and replace the broken exhaust stud.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

NOTE-As the clutch friction plate wears. Your pedal free-play will decrease.
LG

 

[hondo]

i got it back together last night and drove it this morning and the problem is back i have tried no free play 1 inch and a half inch. it still grinds into first but only after a few miles down the road. the one linkage hole is elongated from wear. could that be causing problems?

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Have you taken the Bell crank apart? maybe those plastic bushing are gone causing the inner or outer support bracket pivot balls to rub the inside of the bell crank. this will change the angles and give a wierd feeling in the pedal almost like the clutch pedal bearing. That's a nightmare! If any of the linkage is worn replace it. also check the clutch push rod it can get worn where it meets the clutch pedal. it can grove. Keep all the parts snug,greased and NEWish... hope this helps.

 

[hondo]

Have you taken the Bell crank apart? maybe those plastic bushing are gone causing the inner or outer support bracket pivot balls to rub the inside of the bell crank. this will change the angles and give a wierd feeling in the pedal almost like the clutch pedal bearing. That's a nightmare! If any of the linkage is worn replace it. also check the clutch push rod it can get worn where it meets the clutch pedal. it can grove. Keep all the parts snug,greased and NEWish... hope this helps.

this sounds very possible one hole in the bell crank is worn and it is at a odd angle. also the problem started right after the bolts for the bracket on the bell housing backed out leaving the bell crank hanging while i desperately looked for a hardware store giving the plastic b¨shing plenty of time to fall out. didn't think they would be stupid enough to use plastic bushings. guess i was just giving them to much credit. ill tear it apart hopefully tomorrow.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

this sounds very possible one hole in the bell crank is worn and it is at a odd angle. also the problem started right after the bolts for the bracket on the bell housing backed out leaving the bell crank hanging while i desperately looked for a hardware store giving the plastic b¨shing plenty of time to fall out. didn't think they would be stupid enough to use plastic bushings. guess i was just giving them to much credit. ill tear it apart hopefully tomorrow.

The bell crank should be level with the frame. Try filling the bell crank before you put it together. then use the gun to top it off. Good luck friend, If you live near a 4WheelParts they carry most of the parts in stock, Omix-ada..

 

[hondo]

there is a 4 wheel parts close but whenever i ask for parts for the CJ5 or especially for my ford gpw they always say its a special order and generally 1 week out.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

I get lucky i guess Co has 3 stores.. but those bushing need the little "C" clips to hold them. the boot gets a little support from the C clip. not to beat a dead horse but like LG said on Fastatv Broken axle thread. when you get those bushing and clips think about getting extra. if you lost them anyway. this sounds a lot like the issues i was having from the way you explain the pedal feel. my passenger pivot ball was wore down to an arrow head, real shiny like.

 

[hondo]

ok i pulled it apart and the plastic bushings and pivot brackets look ok. but the inside of the actual bell crank has groove worn in where the bushings set is this supposed to be there?

 

[hondo]

ok bought all new clutch linkage test drove it and its still grinding into 1st. the clutch feels wzay better though, i did try doing multiple different adjustments on the linkage and got the same result, i was thinking that maybe since it dosent grind when cold but does when it warms up a bit maybe it is a lubrication problem???? now i know asking lubrication questions can almost become a religious discussion but i need to know what i should be using i am currently using 80-90 gl5. thanks, need to get this going don't know that i can go another week without it.:madjeep::driving:

 

[danray48]

I don't think I saw this mentioned, but are all your Transmission mounting bolts tight? My T-150 was grinding going into 1st sometimes, and it helped me.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

when my T-150 was going out in the early stages i had to put into second gear, then nurse into first(at a stop with the clutch in) this kinda helped i still do it to this day and goes in every time. just a thought my Cj has lots of quarks...

 

[hondo]

when my T-150 was going out in the early stages i had to put into second gear, then nurse into first(at a stop with the clutch in) this kinda helped i still do it to this day and goes in every time. just a thought my Cj has lots of quarks...

this is exactly what i am currently having to do but didn't start until i replaced the bad bearings. i know for certain that is not the way it is supposed to be, and will eventually get it fixed.

I don't think I saw this mentioned, but are all your Transmission mounting bolts tight? My T-150 was grinding going into 1st sometimes, and it helped me.

fairly certain this isn't it because it happened after i pulled it the first and second time also i put the bolts in with the impact gun, but will check anyways. thanks

 

[hondo]

went ahead and changed out the gl5 with gl4, then got in to go for a drive to town and, the starters dead got to get a new one tomorrow.:madjeep:

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Are you still grinding into reverse? Which is non synchro, you said first which leaves the snap ring and a crushed synchro as causes for grinding. That is if you got all other external parts under control.
After everything is tight, and still grinding remove cover and grasp synchro with index and thumb and move towards 1st gear hard as you can if it goes all the way to clutch teeth and can turn it is crushed or cracked.
See picture compare 3rd & 1st synchros, 3rd crushed & 1st normal. You still need to tear down and put snap ring in.