Build Thread Mike's '67 cj5 ongoing restoration

[Hedgehog]

Sounds like they are there to look tough and not really be tough. If your using a factory style bumper to bolt to, even if your going to weld them, looks are really about all they will be good for. The factory bumper is just that, something to bump just before hitting sheet metal.

 

[johnnyreb]

so you mean they're not a D-ring shackle clevis? Parenegade

 

[tarry99]

It's not that kind of jeep. . I understand the point you make about not being up to the bullet proof standard and figured a side pull for recovery would be risky.Thanks for checking out my build never the less.
I may weld them as well sometime in the future. Cheers, Mike

No problem Mike......I knew what you were doing and I was not being critical of your work which is always outstanding........just wanted to point that out for anyone that perhaps was going to copy that method that it may not work well once off the road in a sideways pulling recovery.

 

[mstar]

Yes that is a very good point. Well taken. Mike

 

[cj7inthetwigs]

As always, impressive Mike

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

 

[mstar]

Hello to all, sorry no pictures today.Have not been doing much this winter.
I did re-install the CB radio that came with the jeep.Mostly for the nostalga.
Used a 4' firestick for antenna.Still need to calibrate with SWR meter.Put the 31-10.50x15 bfg all-ter. on centerline wheels on from another project.
Replaced the rivets on the guard thinks over the wiper blades that has the canvas covering .Top of windshield.Got some copper rivets from Mcmaster-carr.No more rust. Got the rear main seal in .It's better but not 100% yet.
Anyway thanks for look'in any any tips you have are gladly accepted. mike

 

[mstar]

Got the SWR set on the CB radio. Been thinking about the tow bar tabs.Going to re-engineer that setup soon as I get the jeep in the shop.
Some times ya don't always get things right the first time.
Cheers, mike

 

[Rj67cj6]

Nice thread mstar. You should have your own jeep show on TV.
I was curious about a few things as I looked at the pictures and read through the post.
First, did your jeep originally have the spare tire carrier on the side?

Second, you mentioned taking a road trip and doing 65 mph, how does your Ross steering g handle at those speeds?

Looking forward to seeing more post.

RJ

 

[mstar]

Greetings, Yes as far as I know all cj's with tailgate had side mounted spare. Like I said on the handling works great.Work I have done ;
replace kingpin bearings and seals set to proper preload
serviced wheel bearings and seals slight pre-load on bearings
installed 11" drum brakes and dual master cyl.
serviced drag link ends,replaced tierod ends
replaced bell crank pin and bushing
adjusted ross steering
align.front end 1/8"-3/16" toe in / 5*-7* caster (shim)
ADDCO rear sway bar. This really helps in wind or when passing trucks

I hear a lot of people complaining about the handling on these old CJ's.
Maybe i'm just used to it after all the vehicles I learned to drive where '40's and 50's cars and trucks. A little wiggle and wobble don't bother me. I have new car and truck that I enjoy driving but always like getting behind the wheel of the old jeep. mike

 

[mstar]

Just as a follow up on last post.In addition to the steering and brakes I have;
rebuilt Transfer Case and parking brake
replaced all u-joints frnt & rear
replaced Transmission (T-86 ) with rebuilt T-14 (full syncro)
Herm rebuilt Warn o-drive and changed hub for T-14 Transmission spline
Overhauled engine with new, rings,bearings,cam,lifters,timming gears
oil pump,valve grind,tune-up.

That should bring me up to date. What is left is body and and paint job ?
Or just drive it !!

Also , sold meyer metal top and installed best top ,bought used W/S frame and welded all extra holes and painted it. old one was rusted out. mike

 

[mstar]

Couple before and after pics

 

[Rj67cj6]

Sounds like you basically rebuilt the entire steering system.
Before I rebuilt the Ross box, I read up on a few post on how to do it. I think I did a pretty good job, but of course I didn't use it yet, wasn't to clear on the whole bearing preload.

Can you explain how to do that please, and why it needs to be done?

Thank you RJ

 

[mstar]

RJ , I am not sure which bearings you are referring to. Not up on the worm gear adjustment for bearings on ross steering.Shims I will presume with zero end play. On the king pin bearings(sometimes called "trunnion bearings") after the new cups have been installed the bearings and shims
and caps can be installed without seals and lightly oiled (no grease)
The preload is measured by attaching a spring scale to the tierod hole in steering knuckle.With a steady pull thier should be 6-9 lbs pull.You may need to acquire a shim pack to adjust to correct preload.a gunsmiths digital trigger pull scale or something like it may work.Over the years I have gotten a "feel" for about the right resistance.After that is done disassemble the knuckle and pack bearings and install seal and reassemble.Fill knuckle with your favorite gravy(gear oil and grease mixture)many recipes online/ do search. mike

*specs from 1965 Motors Repair manual

 

[Rj67cj6]

Thank you for that explanation Mike,
I'm sure I'll read the post several times before fully comprehending it.
I just know I didn't do this step when assembling my steering.
Hope all is well!

RJ

 

[mstar]

I do have my rotisserie ready to go when I get around to doing body and paint. Did the '69 on this.Went to paint shop and back then directly on to frame. Best tool ever under $200.