My CJ 5- What to do next?

[jacobshain]

1974 CJ5
Engine: AMC 360 from P code '75 Wagoneer (4 barrel intake)
500 miles on COMPLETE rebuild, correctly broken in
Turned/ polished stock crank
New King main and rod bearings, plastigage measured perfect for every bearing
Rebuilt factory rods, shot peened w/ ARP bolts and nuts
New Clevite pistons with Dana perfect circle rings, ring gaps all in specs
New Cloyes timing chain set
Stock camshaft, in great shape
New Melling oil pump. Opened up flow restrictions in oil channels. Idle 40 PSI, operating PSI 60-80.
New flywheel correctly balanced for AMC 360, Luk clutch set, new clutch linkage
All freeze plugs in block and heads are brass and will not rust
Heads: intake ports opened up, smoothed, port matched to intake manifold, dimpled combustion chambers, lapped valves
Heads: exhaust ports matched to exhaust manifolds and polished very smooth. New sealed power exhaust valves
New Comp Cams flat hydraulic lifters
Stock 4 barrel intake manifold
Edelbrock 1406 600 CFM carb w/ offroad needle and seat kit
Mallory ignition coil and distributor, new wires, new distributor gears
New fuel pump
New water pump and thermostat
New aluminum radiator (4 core I believe)
Rebuilt alternator Delco 12si, good charge at 14.5-14.7 volts
New power steering pump
Rebuilt starter, new solenoid
New battery (about 6 months old)
Transmission /Transfer Case : Borg Warner T-15 3 speed/ Dana 20 Transfer Case
New mounts
New gear lube
No problems and strong enough to not break with new engine
As stated above, new clutch, pressure plate, linkage, and just about everything associated with the clutch
Front axle: Dana 30 (built to be as strong as Dana 44 )
I have $1,000 invested in just the front axle itself
New Yukon 4.10 gears with complete rebuild/bearing set. Professionally built by one of the best, if not the best in town.
Aftermarket chromemoly inner and outer axles, new u joints
Rear axle: Dana 44
Almost $1500 invested in this axle
Cable engaged OX locker with Yukon 4.10 gears installed. Has gotten me unstuck a few times.
Everything else:
New BDS shocks
4 inch lift
33" TSL Boggers (super swampers) on Eagle Alloy wheels
Bucket seats with 4 point harness seatbelts
Fiberglass tub
No rust
Completely rewired Jeep. All connectors are soldered and covered with heat shrink
Added fuse box
Working speedometer, odometer, tach, oil pressure gage, temp gage, fuel gauge, all lights
8,000 pound Ramsey winch with wireless controller
Offroad lights
Exhaust: cherry bombs
Only things I didn't wire up: volt gauge, windshield wipers, and heater, Currently have the wiper motor and heater motor plus the original controls, minus the original on/off switch prepped and ready to be installed.

 

[GRONK Performance]

Rolling those big shoes I would add a power brake booster to the mix. Takes ledd than 30 minutes to install and you can pick one up from a YJ for under $50.

Nice ride!

 

[Old Dog]

take it out and wheel it. It will tell you what it wants next.

 

[73CJ]

take it out and wheel it. It will tell you what it wants next.

Build it, break it, build it better. . .

 

[johnbilt]

Great Jeep - I like the 72-75 CJ's.
I might suggest a hydraulic clutch cylinder upgrade. My 73 bellcrank was a pain. It really tends to twist on the trails.

 

[Hedgehog]

You've done a BUNCH of nice work, but you did ask:

What about that seperated front driver side fender?

The firewall looks a bit rusty. .. On a second look and knowing the tub is glass it must be dirt

If it were mine it would get quieter mufflers.

What is the deal with that plastic air damn thing on the hood?

I would think the Carb would breath better if the intake wasn't turned toward the firewall.

WHERE ARE THE FRONT TUB MOUNTS? The triangular one under the front floor board and dash is missing? As is the missing mount under the passanger floors as well. Glass tubs might not need them, I really don't know, but it does seem odd not to have them. There is a lot of weight up front that needs to be held up by something.

A new one piece ground wire wouldn't hurt.

 

[Old Dog]

WHERE IS THE FRONT TUB MOUNT? The triangular one under the front floor board and dash? I can see the missing mount under the passanger floor as well. Glass tubs might not need them, but it does look odd not to have them. There's a lot of weight up front.

A new one piece ground wire wouldn't hurt.

My glass tube has mounts there. I think they are needed.

 

[Hedgehog]

Old Dog - Sorry I edited the portion you "Quoted" to read as follows.

WHERE ARE THE FRONT TUB MOUNTS? The triangular one under the front floor board and dash is missing? As is the missing mount under the passanger floors as well. Glass tubs might not need them, I really don't know, but it does seem odd not to have them. There is a lot of weight up front that needs to be held up by something.

A new one piece ground wire wouldn't hurt.

 

[Old Dog]

That's ok, the main thing is we both agree it needs some front mounts.

 

[Hedgehog]

We are absolutely in agreement. I'm wondering how the tub is staying on at all without'em. I at least see a BIG crack in his future.

 

[jdarg]

I wouldn't sweat the front mounts. That's how older CJ glass tubs were made. Mine is the same way. You could run some straps up to the firewall if it bugs you - many people do. Not having them won't cause the fiberglass to crack though, unless there is a defect in your tub and it would probably crack anyways even with those in place.