Build Thread My New 75 CJ5

Build Thread My New 75 CJ5


Active Jeeper
Waldorf, MD
1975 CJ5 w 4.2 258.
2004 TJ Rubi
2011 Toyota Tundra
Well six months ago we traded in my 05 TJ that We truely loved so we could get a bigger truck to pull our thirty foot camper. Since then my wife noticed that every jeep that drove by I stared at and then got quiet. Well we finally decided to look for a CJ I have owned a yj and a TJ and wanted the best the CJ. We set a budget and boy we started to get worried because they were either 9k or 3k and needing everything done to it. We found a 75 CJ5 with a fiberglass tube (no body work for me) which was in the best condition of all the ones we had looked at. We went for a test drive and I almost drove the thing in a ditch at the end of the guy's driveway. He said there was no power brakes. They were worse then manual brakes. We still bought it, but had him drive it to our house. It did have power brakes and I think the booster was bad. I ordered a full unit from Morris 4 x 4 even before he delivered the jeep. The day came and he delivered it I signed the paperwork and dropped the pen to see a huge oil spot in my garage. He said that he had seen an oil spot once or twice. The spot was the size of a medium pizza. His head sank and we shook hands and he left. Well I waited and cleaned the underneath and the leak is coming from the rear of the oil pan in the center. I yanked out the old master cylinder and put in the new one. Problem one the lines are on the other side and the fitting on the new master cylinder are different sizes. So I took the unit off and went to advanced auto parts. Now I have bent one line and the other line didn't match up with the porportion valve so I went back to advance and they custom made me one. I have ordered new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, radiator, and so many other stuff. I will post some pics later.
yes we like pics
welcome to the site, there will be a lot of guys here to help you with the thing, remember we all have had problems with what the PO did, so nothing is strange to us. Even if we do get oggled eyed at some of the stuff we see.

Owning a Cj is a journey that will make you proud you took it. They are nice, they are desirable, and they are fun.

not only that but we get to be manly men doing manly stuff like mechanics and welding and stuff.
:ww: Cj's are like wemen, they like it when you pay attention to them.:D
Well I took the tires off to look at the brakes. The brakes look fine, however the rear brake lines were in the wrong spots and not clipped down right and had ripped apart the sidewalls. It was no wonder the prior owner even made it to our house. How will I find out what type of axles are under it? I hope to finish the brake lines and new power brakes and pull the oil pan and replace the gasket this weekend. I sure hope the oil leak is coming from than and its not the rear main seal. I haven't done one of those before and I am really worried about it.:confused:
:ww: Really nice looking 75! Wish mine looked half as good when I got it.

You should have a Dana 44 rear axle and a Dana 30 front, unless a PO changed them. But from the picture, your rig looks pretty stock.

As far as how to do stuff on it, this site is a great resource. The members here have helped me a lot with my 75. I also would recommend getting hold of a Factory Service Manual. I found a guy on Ebay that sells reprints for about $60. Its a been a big help. Also, the Jeep Owner's Bible by Moses Ludel is a great reference.

Good Luck and welcome to the CJ club.

Bill :chug:
That is a rather sharp looking CJ you got there! Don't be too worried about changing the rear main seal, as removing the oil pan is 3/4th's the work. I would change it anyway, since most Jeeps leak there at some point in their life, and you'll already have the pan down. I'll almost bet that it is the source of the leak to begin with though.

Good luck with her man, like Baja said owning a CJ is a journey and they are fun!! Sometimes a major pain in the *** but freaking fun!
Well another trip to the parts store today. But we have progress. We bench bled the the master cylinder and made two brake lines and installed them. Do we have to bleed the brakes if we replaced the master cylinder and replaced the brake lines to the proportion valve. We haven't taken it off jack stands yet. I am really nervous about the rear main seal. Really how hard is it?:( Forgive me for asking but I can do it just by dropping the oil pan. Please advise
Hey also We bought many new parts for the engine. We bought a new valve cover from spectre and Now We can't find any of the crommets for it or a oil cap. Ugh. any advice
found all the grommets needed and even ordered two rear main seals incase I screw it up. Please let me know what you think or any advise on how to do the rear main seal.:notworthy:
All you really need to do to change out the rear main seal once you have the pan down, is to remove the rear main bearing cap, find a small diameter long drift, and gently tap the seal to "spin" it out of the block.

To install the new one lightly coat the new seal with fresh oil, and get it started into the block, and gently tap it into place. The seals have a metal ring molded into them, so they can withstand light taps from a small hammer. Then re-install the main cap and torque to spec, and install your oil pan, etc.

If the old seal is really fighting you coming out, you may have to slightly loosen the other main caps to lessen the amount force required to remove it.

It is really simple once you get in there to do it. Any other questions just feel free to ask man, that's what we're here for.
found all the grommets needed and even ordered two rear main seals incase I screw it up. Please let me know what you think or any advise on how to do the rear main seal.:notworthy:

Not sure which engine you have, but since you said valve cover (not plural:)) I will assume its a straight six. Here is a good link for a 4.0 that will help. » Replacing your rear main seal
I'm Sorry I have the 4.2 258. Will it be the same or dif?:confused:

Other than the shape of the oil pan and maybe some trouble getting it off, it is the same.

The oil pan on the 258 usually requires removal of the passenger motor mount to get it over the oil pump. I also pull the cross bar between the frame to get more access. The pan may be different on your year (I know AMC Eagles have the drop of the pan near the center, not the rear) but I am not sure.

PS, Update your profile so others with specific knowledge can help :)
I also pull the cross bar between the frame to get more access.

Not sure what cross-member you're referring to? Only removable cross-member on my 73 (same frame) is the skid plate/ tranny mount.

Pulling the passenger side does make it easier.
It's called a tie bar and goes between the frame rail in line with the motor mounts. From my understanding they have been in some Jeeps since the mid 70's to prevent frame spreading, especially those with the super high horsepower 258 :D (actually all sizes have had them). Probably would help catch an engine if the mount broke as well.

I would assume many prior owners remove them and not sure what years or models have them, But they can be a pain in the arse when pulling the pan and getting around if you are on your back!

Thank you all for the advice. I am going on vacay and will start up on it on Tuesday. Does anyone know where I can get a Dash for my 75 CJ. Ours is beat to shi^&^& :D
Well another trip to the parts store today. But we have progress. We bench bled the the master cylinder and made two brake lines and installed them. Do we have to bleed the brakes if we replaced the master cylinder and replaced the brake lines to the proportion valve. Please advise
my take on this is after all that work, why leave old fluid in the lines, what you need to do is to bleed them all the way down to each brake, make sure to keep the MC full. That way you will get full benefit of all your work. If you do not do this, there could be, or not be, a problem. Just a thought, I vote do it right the first time.
Well this week we put a new oil pan in and everyone that said you needed to unbolt the right side engine mount were right and thank you. Oil leak is fixed. replaced the valve cover. That oil leak is fixed too. Replaced the plugs and wires and tomorrow will do the coil. The brake lines and Master cylinder and booster are replaced. We bled the back brakes and had to go back to advanced to get a smaller hose to do the fronts. Will do that later. Received the new steering shaft but the end that mates with the steering column didn't fit so I had to order 48 spline one to swap out. Making great progress :chug:

Now our dash is aluminum and need to figure out how to paint it and patch some holes. Any advise would be awesome
Here are some pics will upload more later. Please let me know what I should do about our dash. There are extra holes that need to be patched and We want to get it painted and don't know how to go about it. Thanks Mike and Pam:D
Well I received the final part for my steering shaft and assembled it and installed it. I actually drove it once around the block (no tags yet). The new brake system is Awesome!!! actually stops on a dime. That was the first time the jeep has moved since we bought it. Nice feeling. Then I pulled it into the garage and I have another oil leak. I just put a new oil pan and its leaking out of the front of it. I tried to push some more rtv into it last night but I am sure I will be dropping it and re-installing it today.:eek: I am waiting on a new dash to be delivered and new tires. I have to figure out how to cut holes in the dash for the gauges and switches. I ordered a black powder coated diamond plate. Please let me know how I should cut it out. It is awesome to see the progress. Can't wait for the summer!!!!!!:chug:

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