Need AMC 20 to 1 piece axle help

Need AMC 20 to 1 piece axle help
Sasquach

Sasquach

Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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Location
Santa Ynez, Ca.
Vehicle(s)
1978 CJ5, 258 w/4.0head, Mopar MPI, P.S., P.B.,Tilt wheel, No stereo, t-18, t-20, amc 20, dana-30 w/tru-trac, Warn full float w/locking hubs & Detroit locker in the AMC.
1964 CJ3B, 4-134
1952 M100 trailer
Have AMC20 code N and trying to order the right 1 piece axle kit. The N code is Trac-lok 3.54 and the Superior axles states "Cannot be used with Auburn Locker
Will NOT extend beyond 49"
This kit is not compatible with an OEM Tracloc or a Powertrax No-Slip Locker"

OK so I thought about then putting in a Detroit locker or such to satisfy Superior but really want to leave the rear alone and later put the locker in the front.

So what 1 peice axle to get that's compatable with the Trac-lok-if any?
 
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/viewing-world-flat-your-back-2797/index4.html
DHugg is doing the swap, I would read his thread and see if there is anything you can use there. He also found a pretty good price as I recall.

Sasquach said:
Have AMC20 code N and trying to order the right 1 piece axle kit. The N code is Trac-lok 3.54 and the Superior axles states "Cannot be used with Auburn Locker
Will NOT extend beyond 49"
This kit is not compatible with an OEM Tracloc or a Powertrax No-Slip Locker"

OK so I thought about then putting in a Detroit locker or such to satisfy Superior but really want to leave the rear alone and later put the locker in the front.

So what 1 peice axle to get that's compatable with the Trac-lok-if any?
Click to expand...
 
Well that does help, looks like I need to take off the diff cover and verify exactly what I have then make a phone call to get the right application-axle lengths are different in some cases.
 
I have wide trak axles, so I don't know if it's different or not. But.
I know sometimes you have to take the stop block out of the open diff. or the axles will not seat all the way.
Mine said they would not work with the factory LS too. They did work with the Auburn LS I ran for a while, and they work with the detroit locker I run now.
Thats about all I know. :p
 
I had the Chinese 1 piece axles and I used the Lock Right locker it worked great:chug:
 
Old Dog said:
If your talking to me I said I used an Auburn Limited slip, and a Detroit locker with my superior axles.
Click to expand...

Yes I was and I see my mistake now:notworthy:.


Gert, Chinese axles? would that be the Crown? and were they a pressed on hub or welded on or true 1 peice?
 
Yes they were the Crown/ Omix ada axles...hmm they wernt pressed for sure I looked them over real good before I installed them. :D I also dont remember seeing a weld joint either
 
gert said:
Yes they were the Crown/ Omix ada axles...hmm they wernt pressed for sure I looked them over real good before I installed them. :D I also dont remember seeing a weld joint either
Click to expand...

Well... reason I ask may have more to do with product advertising than anything, The more expensive makers say to not settle for inferior axles that are really 2 seperate peices welded or pressed together.
The Crown axles are not really cheap anyway.
 
IMHO I would stay with a made in the USA brand, like superior, moser,ten X.
I've seen bad thing happen to things made fron china steel.
 
Got the cover off and can anyone verify what I have? should be a factory Trac-lok per my axle code(assuming PO's never changed it).
 
Just off the phone with Superior tech suport and informed that the only non compatable set-up is a Powertrax no slip that has been installed into the Trac-lok case, apparantly at one time that was a common thing to do.

Ha Hoo I think I'm good to go!:)
 
I got my axles out today and did pull the hubs off just to see how hard it was and my feeling is you would have to supply some serious torque to ever spin these things provided you kept your nuts tight!:D
The nut extraction not so difficult with a large box end wrench like a tractor mechanic might have, getting the hub off...a bit more difficult. I used the run of the mill craftsman gear puller and got as tight as I thought it could stand then went a bit further... applied lot's of heat with the rose bud then a little more, then wacked the end of the puller a couple times with a large ballpen hammer and POP!
They are splined, keyed and pressed together pretty well and for my style of use would have lasted forever.(I think anyway)
What I did find though that would not have lasted forever was a dry outer bearing that looked like the seal went on about a few thousand miles earlier by the look of the crusted hard grease.
Well long story short with a brake job thrown in while it's apart it should not need anything in the rear for lot's of miles.:chug:
 
Sasquach said:
I got my axles out today and did pull the hubs off just to see how hard it was and my feeling is you would have to supply some serious torque to ever spin these things provided you kept your nuts tight!:D
Click to expand...

Your right they look like they would hold up good, and actually do as long as you have a stock jeep with stock tires. Big tires seem to kill them for some reason.:confused:
would you be interested in the auburn Limited slip I have? It has very few miles on it and works well. I need to sell it just haven't got around to listing it anywhere yet.
 
I have had most axle set ups like many others on this site.

I had the Superior axles and a Loc Rite and have broken all of them.

I think it depends alot on how much wheel'n you do or plan to do, and what kind. For me after spending all the early money... I settled on the Currie 9" Ford set up...Hard to Break...still running strong. They Do cost..but after you add up the "Early" axle fix money...it just might make sense.

Good luck
 
Old Dog said:
Your right they look like they would hold up good, and actually do as long as you have a stock jeep with stock tires. Big tires seem to kill them for some reason.:confused:
would you be interested in the auburn Limited slip I have? It has very few miles on it and works well. I need to sell it just haven't got around to listing it anywhere yet.
Click to expand...

I might be, what did you want for it?
 
Well, yesterday finally got my Superior one-piece axles into an AMC20 stock rear on a 1980 CJ7 . It took a while longer; our local "expert" pressed the bearings on backwards, had to take 'em off and trash the set, get another, and install.

I didn't use the steel spacer between the axle shaft oil seal and the inside bearing keeper; wouldn't close the gap. I sealed both inside and outside surfaces of the brake backing plate with white marine RTV. It stays drippy a good while and you have to watch for runs.

New grade 8 bolts, locking nuts, snugged up quite tightly did not cause any drag on either side of the axle. Used a lot of green marine bearing grease on both sides; it gets damp here along the Gulf, but I don't intend to take this axle swimming. It had already pulled in a snoot-full of sand and mud.

I cleaned the axle tubes with a SS scouring pad tacked onto a length of broomstick, with the axle tube flooded with kerosene. Swabbed out with oiled towel, just like you'd clean a gun barrel, and blew it all clean with compressed air.

After all the surprises I've come across (cocked fuel pump mount, upside-down fuel filter, two bad vacuum leaks, and both sides of the rear brake assemblies completely non-functional from rust, mud, and leaking axle seals), I was surprised how easily everything came together on this Superior axle set.

That tells me I musta done something wrong....... I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.

Denny Hugg
Gulfport
 
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