Need help: What is my Carter missing?

[hatersaurusrex]

Went out to fully determine the status of my carb situation today and yikes. My 84 CJ has a stock AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with the Carter, and when I pulled the air cleaner, I discovered this mess. Uncapped ports and loose wiring, which I have no clue the function of.

When I start it up, the gasoline smell is really strong, but after a few minutes it settles into a high idle and I can tap the pedal and kick it down and it idles well and runs and drives pretty good after that. The only real issue I've noticed (other than the smell) is sometimes when shifting from 2-3-4 under WOT it gets a bit of hesitation. Outside that the motor runs well and doesn't smoke.

I plan to install either a Weber 38 or Motorcraft carb, but can't do that for a couple more months until I move.

My immediate question: Which of these things should I cap off now? Any ideas on why the gas smell is so strong at startup? When I first crank it it turns over a couple of times and briefly acts like it wants to catch for just a second, but then requires a few more seconds of cranking before it catches fire.

Also, the factory air cleaner assembly is long gone, it's just a generic couple of chrome pie plates over a round air cleaner now, so any of the stuff that was in the factory breather is disconnected and/or non function.

Long story short, if this were yours what would you do to it right now to knock down the gas smell and keep it running until the MC swap happens?

 

[dalefan88]

Looks like the vent tube hose on top is got a hole in it. I would fix that that might be were the smell is coming from


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[dalefan88]

And the rest of it isn't hooked up


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[IOPort51]

check the choke adjustment, too rich is the smell when cold.

 

[Rollie]

Make sure that the nuts that hold the carb to the intake manifold are tight. Mine got loose and it was leaking fuel there. When the engine warmed up evidently it expanded enough to seal it off somewhat. Kind of off the wall, but it happened.

 

[alpha6]

All the emissions stuff has been removed. All those exposed nipples need to be capped off first. I would also check to see if a nutter bypass has been done. If not, do it because all the emissions stuff is gone aNyway and the computer has got to be screwing with the carb without all the feedback . Last, check out the pics from nt thread on how to hook up the distributor advance to you carter, that is one you do want hooked up. Lastly, once you get that hooked and everything plugged, you will want to reset your timing.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f98/rocky-mountain-85-cj7-16192/index5.html

Second post on that link should help you.

 

[hatersaurusrex]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Is the nutter bypass required if I'm going to swap to an MC2100 or can I just bolt it on?

 

[alpha6]

For how simple it is to do and how much better things run I would do it.

 

[gp4play]

For how simple it is to do and how much better things run I would do it.

X2 with all the emissions unhooked I would do it. The gas smell is prob coming from the vent like Dalefan88 said and with the return line from the filter unhooked it might be over pressure at high idle.

 

[hatersaurusrex]

Yeah after some reading and digging around it looks like that exposed tube/nipple on top is the float bowl vent, and is supposed to vent into a canister instead of back into the throat of the carb. Unless I'm wrong, they only vent externally to the canister, there's not an internal vent.

I'm new to emissions carbs and the fact that the leftover tube section points directly down at the exhaust manifold means I won't be running the Jeep again until I get that vented out somewhere else. If my float valve were to go bad I could be driving a two ton barbecue grill in a hurry.