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New 83 CJ8 & clutch travel

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New 83 CJ8 & clutch travel
TCCJ8

TCCJ8

Jeeper
Posts
34
Thanks
0
Location
Lititz, PA
Vehicle(s)
83 CJ8 SR
Reman 4.2 FI
AC
5 speed
Just checked off a bucket list vehicle and bought a 83 Scrambler SR with a reman AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l MPFI, AC, 5 SP, New cab hardtop. I haven't been sure to take it out on the road because PennDot is running 3 weeks on antique plates, used to be a week or less. I have just been driving it asking the lot at my office and the lawn. It seemed the clutch engaged really high when I first got it, I am 6-1". Today it seemed to catch closer to the floor. Can it move and of do what does that indicate?
Thanks,
Tom
 
Moved this to the drivetrain section.

You'll get more into / answers here...

:chug:
 
Adjust the pedal freeplay to 1 - 1 1/4 inch of movement, before you feel resistance to the pedal.
LG
 
Depends on clutch "linkage" type too - Do you have stock or?

Not sure actually what was stock then, 4 main choices you'll see for clutch fork operation:

1) Linkage
2) Cable
3) Hydraulic with a master and slave external, or master and hydraulic throwout bearing.
4) chain (rare)

For example, my hydraulic has no adjustment (self adjusts as far as I can tell...)

OP - if linkage, sometimes they twist a bit especially when old and start moving again... Let us know what kind of clutch operation system you have and we'll go from there. Lumpy is correct on most clutch systems, you adjust the freeplay correctly and go from there...
 
I really can't answer your four questions, I go by Mr. Badwrech. My mechanic is a Jeep nut too and has a CJ7 and is looking forward to having my Scrambler in him shop.

Reverse has been grinding into gear with the clutch to the firewall and it engages just a tick off the firewall. I also plugged up an intersection today on a green arrow left turn when the clutch went to the floor and I couldn't get it into 1st.
I thought I was going to be stranded but after sitting through the next light I got it in 1st also with a much lower engagement point.
Thanks,
Mr. Badwrench
 
Remember with a standard Transmission if you have to, you can always drive home without a clutch. I have done it 3 or 4 times in the 33 years I've had my CJ
 
Reverse is non-syncro. Bump the shifter into another gear and then go to 'R'.
If you lift the hood and look around the driver's side firewall area. You will see what the answers are to the question.
If the clutch linkage is OEM then it's a push rod/bell crank set up.
Did you ever get the clutch pedal freeplay set correctly? :confused:
You really need to get a REAL Factory Service Manual(FSM)and learn your CJ.

'84-'86 Jeep Service Manual (Body/Chassis) ? CBJeep

LG
 
Im running an 83 CJ8 ( according to napa) master cylinder. When i first got it up and running the clutch was all good. But after a 20mile ride the clutch would be at the floor after some looking i figured out the line from the master too slave was too close to the exhaust. After moving it i wraped it in some pipe insulation and now its all good. Of course this only applies to hydraulic units.
 
I haven't gotten the manuals yet and don't even know what type of clutch mine has. If that's the fix for a hydraulic clutch I can make a best shield.
 
Open hood,look on firewall. Just above the steering column is the brake master cylinder just to the left (from the drivers seat) of that will be the clutch master probably white plastic. If not there look further down the firewall and you will see a rod coming out of the firewall going down into some linkage(bellcrank) then on to the Transmission .
 
I went to the garage before even making the coffee and yes it has the hydraulic clutch reservoir. It is at the max fill level so that's not the problem. It's a braided S.S. line that does run pretty close to the exhaust pipe. I will use the Tinman22 suggestion and wrap the line. My business actually specializes in high temperature and fireproof custom fabrication so I can have an aluminuzed Velcro wrap sewn up today.

I will report back on my results but won't be able to attach a picture as my pic posts don't go up anymore and the links that now show don't open.
 
If that is the problem you may have to bleed the clutch. Sometimes mine would come back after it cooled sometimes it wouldnt
 
Some of the smartest $$$$ I have ever spent on my CJ. Was getting the FSM before I turned a wrench on it.
:chug:

LG
 
Grits,
Mr. Badwrench changes oil, the mechanic does the real work. I dropped my daughter off at swim practice this morning and it ran great. 20/25 minutes highway and town to my office and I had to put my foot through the firewall to get it in 1st. The clutch also felt like it didn't want to come back up. I sat a while and jammed it in first. Going to try the Tinman heat shield today.
 
Get that line as far from the exhaust heat as you can. A shield is a good idea also.
Can you post some pictures, so we ALL can see what you see?
LG
 
Pics are great.:cool:
You must reroute that line away from the exhaust pipe.
LG
 
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