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New 83 CJ8 & clutch travel

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New 83 CJ8 & clutch travel
Pics are great.:cool:
You may well have to replace the exhaust down pipe, to get more clearance from the fitting.
I have never seen one that close-:eek:
LG
 
Thanks for your input guys, I didn't even know what I was looking for yesterday. I can make my own "diaper" for the cylinder of aluminized fiberglass with a ceramic filler that will attach with hook and loop facing away from the pipe. I can also make one to cover the line near the exhaust pipe.This I can have made at my business, the moving off the pipe would have to be done at a muffler shop.
 
I made up a double sided aluminized fiberglass wrap for the slave cylinder. Not a prefect fit while laying on cardboard on my parking lot. I decided to wrap the pipe right where it passes over the valve. That has 1/4" of ceramic felt covered on fiberglass and aluminized fiberglass.

Now to drive it till good and hot to see if I have kept the gear out of the clutch fluid.

I hope the pictures show well.

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that should help, but take the hydraulic line and route it further from the exhaust too on it's own. Zip ties help. Keep away from all moving parts too just in case.

You may want to bleed all that old fluid out and put in new fluid too... not sure about that and heating / cooling brake fluid a lot... just what I would probably do in your shoes. Don't empty the fluid out, just bleed new fluid through so everything "should" be set up still pretty good and you don't have to re-prime / bench bleed the master... You are essentially replacing all the fluid, but just a little at a time...

Also, make sure you have a good spring on the pedal return, and the slave / clutch fork return at the Transmission . These help. Most of the aftermarket (like i have) slave clutch systems auto adjust similar to a brake caliper best I can tell... So you'll want to adjust / press the cam the cam all the way into the slave cylinder housing when bleeding it (similar process as bleeding brakes - not much to it - need another set of "feet" and a good line wrench that fits the bleeder valve.

FYI - if ever have to limp home again, just shut off the jeep and find first. start in gear (careful it will jump) and try not to have to stop again. if you have to shift up (or down) you want to match RMPs as close as you can to what you think it would be doing in that gear... So if in first trying to go to second, you keep rpm steady and gently slide the shifter out of gear. then you drop rpms to about the right place it would start if you had shifted and let out the clutch, and gently try to slide the shifter into 2nd.

Down shifting can be a bit trickier, you have to slide the shifter out of gear and rev up the rpms high to slide the shifter in, and it can be a bit rougher on everything...

I'm speaking from the adapted version of what you have on my older CJ - so others please chime in if I got something wrong with his newer version...

OP - as far as not being a wrencher - we all start somewhere, but if you have the money and have a good shop - nothing wrong with dropping it off and setting back waiting to pick it back up...

:chug:
 
Me thinks that Velcro will melt on that 'space' blanket. :confused:
That blanket is a great idea. :notworthy:
X2 on what 74cj sayz about moving either the line, or as I said the exhaust pipe some.
 
No problem with the Velcro there is two layers of a felt that has a 3200°F melting point sandwiched in there. I brought it up to temp and no problem however I won't be able to do serious miles toll tomorrow evening.
 
Fingers crossed-:notworthy:
LG
 
Things have gotten really weird. The heat shield are fine but tonight I rolled into a parking lot and could not get it OUT of gear. With my foot making the clutch I rolled halfway into a parking place and she chugged and stalled. I shut it down and was able to get it out of first and crawl into a parking spot. I will be back it on an hour but it would seem my clutch is shot.
 
What kind of hydraulic clutch do you have? Is there a push rod pushing against the clutch fork? or is the throw out bearing hydraulic? The reason I ask, and maybe this was discussed earlier, if you have the push rod type of hydraulic clutch, can you see the clutch fork moving when you step on the pedal when the clutch won't disengage? I'm pretty sure like everyone else, excess heat is causing the hydraulic oil to boil and loose viscosity. Just trying to cover all the bases.
 
This is starting to sound like either a hydro T/O bearing issue or a pressure plate problem. :confused:

LG
 
it shouldnt have a hydraulic Throw out bearing. And as per the pics it doesn't.
After the hydraulic fluid overheats once it overheats easier each time after. In order to get to the bottom of this first purge the system of the old fluid. If set up as stock simply opening the slave bleed screw and letting gravity do its job should work. Place a bowl under it(not the dogs he will get a little upset) and keep pouring fresh brake fluid in the resovouir until it comes out clear then close the bleeder. Check for clutch action, while you push the pedal down have some less fortunate like the 17 year old daughter who cant clean her room, watch the slave cylinder there should be movement at the clutch fork. If there is this is good. It shows that master and slave are at least functioning as intended. Pedal should start moving clutch fork close to the top of its stroke. If it is lower or if there is not enough fork movement for disengagement bleed the system this way..have the aformentioned twit loosen the bleeder screw while at the same time you stroke the clutch pedal slowly to the floor. Once at the floor tighten the screw. (You may need to remind the 17 year old mensa member "lefty loosey righty tighty" do this several times you should have a good clutch now. If it goes away after running it even with the heat shield than down pipe mods are in order. Looking at your pics it is way too close to the slave. I would go 5" minimum. Mine is at 5 or so and i have had no problems since. If you have no movement than you have either lost the master (piston blowby)or the slave. If the slave blew out, fluid will be leaking from the boot. if no fluid than the master is bad. It can be checked but they are pretty cheap. If you want to check it remove the line and fashion a plug (napa has them) the pedal should move down very little and stay firm. If it creeps down its shot.
 
TNX T22. :notworthy: Wasn't sure if the T/O was hydro or not. I have seen it both ways on CJ's.
If the fluid 'boiled', may well have air in the line now.
I would try a full fluid flush and re-bleed.
Never did like those hydro CJ clutches. :rolleyes:
Seen to many of them fail on the trail.
LG
 
I have to admit my hydro clutch gave trouble 3 or 4 times in 33 years but I love mine. Pretty simple system. Slave on the outside of bell house is easy access. C Master can be bled easy on the jeep. Not much else
 
Tinman22 I appreciate the bleeding tips. It makes sense what your said about the fluid since these problems only occur after a half hour drive, never when cold. The shifts have become hard and notchy. I do appreciate the bleeding tips and that will be my next task. I think Mr. Badwrench can pull this off. I have the prefect helper in mind however she is 18 but has been designated the next owner of the Jeep when I have to hang up my keys. I would like to make her more aware of maintaining a classic.

It makes sense that the fluid has been compromised. I will shoot the bare pipe and my wrap with a digital perimeter tomorrow. The radiant heat has been drastically reduced and my heat shields look good as new, this is my specialty. There must be moisture our bubbles in the fluid and any temp is having an effect on it.

I don't know what's in there but I plan to run dot 4 though it.
Thanks,
Mr. Wrench
 
Thanks Tinman - humorous as well - I sense a little truth in your story... lol

OP - Keep in mind what I said about the slave pushing it's piston further out of the slave body and needing to possibly push it back in and re-adjust the pushrod. May not need to, but just keep it in mind.

Also - DOT 4 should be a better choice for you with the higher boiling point. I'm going to look more into that for mine as well if I get another high temp clutch noise issue like I did a few weeks ago...

LG - Hydraulic clutch systems are very simple when set up right. I have seen Bellcrank set ups tweak and bind bad on the trail, I've seen the cable systems snap on the trail, and I've seen (through this poster) that heat can affect the fluid in the hydraulic system. They all have flaws, but I love my hydraulic set up. I completely rebuilt my bellcrank stock linkage set up and still would twist in the ricks to a point that the linkage would bind and leave me in or out of gear at it's choosing. Haven't had a single issue with this new system / mod to master / slave hydraulic set up. Everything is easy to replace when / if it does fail, and most people can leave the linkage "guts" close in case of trail failure to get it going again (if un fixable on the trail)... They are a good set up - when lines are ran right and fluid levels maintained etc...

:chug:
 
I vast majority of the mechanical set up failures I have seen was from owner neglect. The rest was do to tranny and/or engine mount issues.
74CJ-TNX for the information! Have you thought about posting a detailed write-up of your hydro clutch set up with pn's? Think it could really help forks with the issue the OP is having.
Do these setups use the same DOT-3 brake fluid that is used for the brakes?
LG
 
Follow up and hopefully the end of my clutch troubles.
I sent it to my mechanic because I had the electric fuel pump fail. He changed the pump and filter them worked on the clutch. He was not able to chance the slave as the replacement didn't fit due to some prior mod. He put it back in and changed the mc. Bleed the lines and put my heat shields back on. She runs great and the clutch catches a couple inches down every time.

3 hour road trip to the lake this weekend!

Thanks for all your help.
Mr. Badwrench
 
I hate to say it but i dont see how he tried to do slave and couldnt so did master and bled lines and now it works... honestly you probably just needed to flush fluid and been done... but if you told him just replace it all im done with it - then i see why they did it.

Either way the important thing was you took it for a nice ride and all is well right? :chug: :beer:
 
Yes I did ask him just to replace things that were bad. I don't have time , our patients, for trial and error. Yes she runs great!
 
:agree: with '74'

You may well want to look for another 'wrench'. You have to bleed the hydro system at the slave cyl. :dunno:
Good luck:notworthy:
LG
 
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