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Now what do I do?

Now what do I do?

FrankinCJ7

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Northern Arizona
Vehicle(s)
80's CJ7 (Wrangler tub)
360 V8
4 speed
4" springs
Currently doing frame off resto
OK, I'm redoing a 84 CJ7 . It is just about to the fire up stage BUT!!!

It has a 360, SR4 and Dana 300 . Now we all know the weak link it the tranny. I have a boat load of SBC parts from my drag racing days so,,,,, I started looking for a GM Turbo 400 and a TC. Found one local, with a NP203 TC, all for $100!

Well, I made the mistake of asking "what else ya got?" And the guy says " I have a T-18 in that shed. :eek::eek::eek:

So I take a look and it is a T-18 B with a Dana 20 and he said $300 for all of it! It does have the piece between the Transmission and bell housing

My question is what will it take to get it behind the 360 and is it worth the effort?

This is just a toy, hobby, weekend goof off, nothing too serious plaything. Just want a fun and dependable vehicle.

Opinions?

image.webp
 
The T-18 is pretty much bulit proof right out of the box and comes with a low granny gear. I’m not an automatic guy so can’t tell you much there.
 
lol im not an automatic fan either so I would be looking really hard at the T-18 . I would grab all the parts he has for the T-18 because the small parts will eat you up :chug: but at the end of the day the real question is what do you want to do? lol if you do the GM Turbo 400 you could split the 203 in half and ebay the gear case(203/205 doubler) and scrap the chain section/ also check that the 400 has the round TC bolt pattern and 23 spline count to match your Dana 300 :chug:
 
I'm not "hard core" but, it is a 4 wheel drive!

I do have a full floater kit and a locker for the AMC20 that will be going in pretty soon.
 
I'm not "hard core" but, it is a 4 wheel drive!

I do have a full floater kit and a locker for the AMC20 that will be going in pretty soon.

:chug: sweet, weld the tubes to the housing and weld a top brace on it and that 20 will be super strong :chug:, sounds like you will have a really good drivetrain. Also when I had my CJ running off road with my locked 20 and AMC 360 it had enough torque and grip that i splattered several yokes/u joints. I would recommend a traction bar be part of your rear suspension system so that the 360 cant rotate your axle up and break u joints :chug:
 
If you consider the T-18 , I would have to suggest getting the wide ratio version and getting the low gear conversion kit for the Transfer Case . For the full floater, if it is the Warn kit try and get the instructions that came with it. The Warn specific items can be tough to replace also, since it is long out of production.
 
you need to pass on the T-18 in the picture, it is out of a FSJ.

Of course you can make it work but it is not a bring it home and bolt it in kind of a job.:D
 
you need to pass on the T-18 in the picture, it is out of a FSJ.

Of course you can make it work but it is not a bring it home and bolt it in kind of a job.:D

Now see, that is what I was looking for, straight answer!

I really appreciate the info, now I won't waste the money.
 
If your wheel base is not stretched that version of the T-18 is to long. The added the adapter so the shifter would be further back in the FSJ.. IIRC.
 
If you consider the T-18 , I would have to suggest getting the wide ratio version and getting the low gear conversion kit for the Transfer Case . For the full floater, if it is the Warn kit try and get the instructions that came with it. The Warn specific items can be tough to replace also, since it is long out of production.

Yeah, I got all the documentation with the kit, axles and even a extra set of Yukon hubs!
 
BTW, the rear locking hubs on a Warn full float setup requires a set screw to lock the hubs so they stay locked. I am not aware that a set of Yukon hubs have that locking feature. That set screw setup can be installed on a set of conventional locking hubs also.
 
BTW, the rear locking hubs on a Warn full float setup requires a set screw to lock the hubs so they stay locked. I am not aware that a set of Yukon hubs have that locking feature. That set screw setup can be installed on a set of conventional locking hubs also.

Good info, I think the Yukon hubs were used by the guy I got the setup from.

I know you can get the piece that locks the axles and replaces the hubs. Hate to loose the ability to flat tow it if necessary tho'

Thanks again for all the help, good group here:chug:
 
FranklinCJ7,
Like they said pass on that T-18 and leave it for the FSJ crowd since the front and rear will not be compatible with what you have. And do not SBC your vehicle when you have a 360 that has more low end.
Keep looking for CJ T-18 and swap out the rear to Dana 300 , that's my opinion.
 

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