Nutter Bypass Problem...

[18delta]

Even though this is my first post, I have been reading extensively about the benefits of the Nutter bypass.
I have a 1986 CJ7 Inline 6. It is in stock condition with the ignition timing set at the (Factory Manuel) recommended 9 BTDC.

When I connect my new "jumper wires" between the ignition control box and the distributer (purple to purple and orange to orange) the Jeep will not start. When I remove the "jumper wires" and reconnect the stock configuration the Jeep starts on the first hit.

What gives???

 

[Torxhead]

My first guess would be the connections, They should be soldered at least.

 

[18delta]

My first thought as well, and yes they WERE soldered. I also advanced and retarded the timing a few degrees, didn't help. I even went to the extreme of checking my "jumper wires" with a volt/ohm meter and they were good.
With the stock connections (computer) starts like a champ, with the "Nutter" in place nothing.
Puzzling

 

[Dan86CJ7]

you attaching to the module side of the harness?

 

[18delta]

No I attached to the "firewall" side of the plug. My thought was to leave the plug intact incase I needed to replace the module.
Do you think that matters??

 

[Torxhead]

I think Dan has a good point there. You should verify that you are connected to the module and not the computer.

 

[18delta]

NO, I am DEFINITELY attached to the module. The module has three wires, orange, green and purple that leave the module and go to a plug. From the plug the same wires enter a loom that leads to the computer.
I cut the wires above the plug_ with the computer side hanging free.
That was one of the things that I checked and re-checked.
I did this exercise twice.. both times the Jeep started with the computer connected and did not start with the "jumper" in place.

I know I'm not making this as clear as it is and if I knew how to attach a picture I would.
I appreciate all the help.

 

[Torxhead]

Actually, the module has six wires with two plugs, and only five of them are used for the oem system, the purple is not used. You seem to say that you cut the wires between the plug and the computer, that would include a black, orange, and green. The purple wire remains between the plug and the module unless you have spliced into it. The way I read post #7 is that you connected a dark green wire(Which goes to the coil negative) to a purple wire(From the distributor pick up coil). In your first post you do state the correct method though. Being able to convert back to the oem system with success does seem to narrow it down to a wiring issue. With the Nutter by-pass you should set the initial timing at around 12 degrees. The black wire coming from the module is for the ground and would be best if it were connected directly to the battery negative instead of the distributor where the current has a lot further and harder path to eventually get back to the battery. Some guys just tap into that black wire and connect it to the battery negative. This would be a good time to install the "Team Rush Upgrade" if it hasn't already been done. I could also be full of beans and some other problem is being created when you make the changeover.

 

[18delta]

Torx, you are absolutely correct about the two plugs, and I probably did confuse the BLACK wire above the plug for the PURPLE wire below (module side) of the plug.
I'll blame dirty wire and bad eyes for the problem (stupidity not withstanding).
Thanks for the insight.

 

[Torxhead]

So let us know if that was the issue.

 

[18delta]

Made connections AT the module; Jeep started as it should. Rerouted the vacuum lines and retimed the ignition. MAJOR improvement as advertised.
Thanks Torx.. Appreciate your knowledge and patience.

 

[Torxhead]

Thanks for the update.