Odd feeling in the rear end

[Germy]

In neutral, the driveshaft has good amount of play. I figure that the new gears will solve this. But I have been giving the jeep a shakedown, rather something go around home. If I nail it rolling 1 or second, something ins slipping. I have thirty fives and I know I'm being hard on the drivetrain. Could it be the oem new clutch?


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[Germy]

I'll throw another question out there too. My starter solenoid arcs to distributor. Not sure if it jumps anywhere else. I had tuning issues with this new engine , so I would crank for a while and the solenoid would sometimes get smokey hot. If the starter is engaging doesn't that mean the solenoid is good?


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[Torxhead]

I would go easy with a Transmission barely designed for a six, and I assume that your rear diff also is not reinforced to handle that kind of power. What is a new oem clutch? Along with that slipping, there could be the possibility of a hub that has let loose. So have you watched an arc jump from the relay to the distributor? How much of a distance is it?

 

[Germy]

By oem clutch i meant just direct replacement from store. The spark is about a 4 inch gap. The lead to starter on solenoid is gray burnt

 

[Torxhead]

I think you might have a distributor wire arcing to relay, from a cracked ignition wire. Try covering that starter cable with electrical tape. You slipping feeling could come from oversize tires and stock gear ratio, which is hard on a clutch assuming it is adjusted correctly.

 

[Germy]

Ok thanks torx. I will tape it up!


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[jdarg]

In neutral, the driveshaft has good amount of play. I figure that the new gears will solve this. But I have been giving the jeep a shakedown, rather something go around home. If I nail it rolling 1 or second, something ins slipping. I have thirty fives and I know I'm being hard on the drivetrain. Could it be the oem new clutch?


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It would be very unusual for a new clutch to slip like that even if your gearing was quite a ways off of where it should be...unless it wasn't actually engaging all the way for some reason. Can you move the fork where it sticks out the Transmission bellhousing at all?

Its more likely to be something in the spark or fuel at WOT, i.e. too little or too much pump shot.

 

[Germy]

It would be very unusual for a new clutch to slip like that even if your gearing was quite a ways off of where it should be...unless it wasn't actually engaging all the way for some reason. Can you move the fork where it sticks out the Transmission bellhousing at all?

Its more likely to be something in the spark or fuel at WOT, i.e. too little or too much pump shot.

There is no play in clutch, i have it tightened to no slack. You think its not closing all the way?

 

[Torxhead]

Germy, I think you should do some reading up on setting 1" to 1 1/2" of freeplay on the clutch pedal. It will also take the load off the throwout bearing. Some guys, like me have installed an additional spring under the dash to keep the pedal up also but, still allowing full pedal travel.

 

[Germy]

Thanks torx!

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Germy, I think you should do some reading up on setting 1" to 1 1/2" of freeplay on the clutch pedal. It will also take the load off the throwout bearing. Some guys, like me have installed an additional spring under the dash to keep the pedal up also but, still allowing full pedal travel.

Thanks for the advice!

My 1980 had a spring such as this installed when it came to be mine. I was going to give it a try and see if it needed to go back on later. I did take the factory spring off and weld up a little of the wear where it rode the pedal, put about a 1/4" of metal back in there. Time will tell I reckon!

 

[Torxhead]

Plus, there should be a plastic or rubber pedal stop pad in there on the stop pin. Another thing is that there are replaceable bearing sleeves that can go in there also, I put in a lube zerk fitting also.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Plus, there should be a plastic or rubber pedal stop pad in there on the stop pin. Another thing is that there are replaceable bearing sleeves that can go in there also, I put in a lube zerk fitting also.

The rubber stop pad was good on the other side, so I flipped it over. When I had it all apart, I sandbalsted and repainted and also greased it well. It does work a lot better than it did. Should be able to get another 30 years out of it!

 

[Flex BT]

And the award for the worst thread title goes to...

 

[Germy]

True