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On Board Air

On Board Air
A couple more thoughts on this.

IMO, the less restriction on the compressor inlet, the better. Just like any other piston engine. I modified the Solberg so it would sit directly on the modified Rotolock fitting.

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Here is the assembled fitting-Rotolock on left and the air cleaner base sandwiches between the nut at the other end.
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I also vented the crankcase with this assembly:
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16591763912_82a069d806_k.webp

And finally, the tank drain. Initially I used a cable operated version, also from Grainger. That was a so-so affair. Burden Surplus Sales had a bunch of surplus diesel fuel shut off solenoid valves about that time and they work perfect. Just make sure to put some kind of filter on the outlet to keep debris out of it. A side benefit is you can scare the begeezus out of unsuspecting people at stop lights.
 
Thanks again everyone for the parts lists and suggestions!!

duffer said:
.....
And finally, the tank drain. Initially I used a cable operated version, also from Grainger. That was a so-so affair. Burden Surplus Sales had a bunch of surplus diesel fuel shut off solenoid valves about that time and they work perfect. Just make sure to put some kind of filter on the outlet to keep debris out of it. A side benefit is you can scare the begeezus out of unsuspecting people at stop lights.
Click to expand...

We have been gathering the parts to add the on board air. I really like the idea of a electrical operated tank drain... I told my husband we should fit the end with the "noise maker" off a whoopie pad. :D :laugh::laugh: sounds like ?? :eek: That would be so much fun... :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
When you are junkyard shopping for York compressors, look for older Ford pickups and vans. My last trip to the pick a part I scored 3 of these off of old ford vans.They were all in good shape and about 25$ apiece, and 2 of them were the larger '210' unit.

The '210' is 169cc displacement, the '209' is 142cc, and the '206' is 100cc. Internet lore indicates up to 8 cfm@90psi for the 210.

Several folks on the web also claim most of the problems with oil discharge are from running the crankcase oil level too high. I am running mine pretty low and so far have not had any problems with oil in the air, time will tell if this will drastically shorten the compressors life. I suspect using them for OBA is putting a lot less wear and strain on them than using them as AC compressors where they run practically all the time (at least in hot climates). I have three spares if I kill this one.

york_compressor_shaft.webp
 
Oil in the York compressor is of course free flowing in the A/C unit throughout the lines. But the compressor oil is picked up from the motion of the pistons spinning around the crankshaft. Too low and they won't pick up any oil. I would guess you've found the magic amount or it would have froze up by now. These compressors were in VW's, Ford's, and Jaguar's :eek: just to name a few. Almost any junk yard will have some as popular as the were. VW was the most quality concerned manufacturer. In a lot of 120 compressors (a pallet), if more than 3 leaked, they sent the whole lot back ( not just the pallet). Most leaks occurred at the head gasket. I once shut done one entire line of building for head gasket leaks. Turned out to be faulty gaskets from a third party.
 
OK, picked up a York 210 with a good clutch and 2 complete sets of mounting brackets, belt tensioner brackets, 1 sort of good tensioner pulley, and a nozzle for the windshield washer for $40. So the acquisition of the compressor is done.
PB, the link is dead, if you have an update, I can use all the info I can get.
We purchased most of the parts Duffer listed, so we are ready to start installation.
Quick question for all that have done this already. I am mounting the air tank on top of the rear wheel house, (only place there is room for it). I am trying to evaluate the pros and cons of either running 2 lines to the tank, one from the compressor to the tank, and the other from the tank to an air chuck mounted somewhere up front. Option 2 would be to only run 1 line from the compressor to the tank, then "T" into the line a safe distance from the compressor taking into account heat near the compressor. The main draw back is see in doing it this way is that I may get a pulsating air supply tapping my delivery line before the air tank, but since I don't plan to use my OBA to spray paint with :laugh:, I can live with a little pulsing in the air supply. Six of one, half dozen of the other? Right? Wrong? Opinions??
 
Bass, I will try to describe you my tank layout to compare with. The tank is located in front of the gas tank similar to what you describe. The input airline from the pump goes in one end of the tank with the popoff valve. The output line is on the opposite side to allow whatever oil and water there is to drop to the bottom of the tank where there is a drain valve.
 
Torxhead said:
Bass, I will try to describe you my tank layout to compare with. The tank is located in front of the gas tank similar to what you describe. The input airline from the pump goes in one end of the tank with the popoff valve. The output line is on the opposite side to allow whatever oil and water there is to drop to the bottom of the tank where there is a drain valve.
Click to expand...

I didn't even think about the oil right at the compressor.:rolleyes: It's a pretty obvious decision now. Good idea using the bottom of the air tank as a sort of sediment bowl with the air outlet on the top. :punk:
 
mriplaybass said:
I didn't even think about the oil right at the compressor.:rolleyes: It's a pretty obvious decision now. Good idea using the bottom of the air tank as a sort of sediment bowl with the air outlet on the top. :punk:
Click to expand...

When you do this if you want to do a write up we can make it a sticky. :)
 
Pete, I will try to keep a good photo record and let you know when it's done.
 
Torxhead said:
Bass, I will try to describe you my tank layout to compare with. The tank is located in front of the gas tank similar to what you describe. The input airline from the pump goes in one end of the tank with the popoff valve. The output line is on the opposite side to allow whatever oil and water there is to drop to the bottom of the tank where there is a drain valve.
Click to expand...
This is exactly how mine is set up. :chug:
 
PB-That should be a 'sticky' on this forum.
Great find! :notworthy:
LG
 
mtnwhlr said:
Hey Pete your services are needed.
Click to expand...

Might be a spell-Think Peter is still do'n his 'happy-dance' after start'n the Jeep up today. :D
LG
 
I was giving one of our members a chance to do a write up for a more "Jeep" look.
 
Got the compressor along with the limit switch, filter, and check/unloader valve mounted and ready to run yesterday. The tank and all associated with that end of the project was slated for today. Problem is, when I started up the compressor, just running through a wide open line after the check valve, it began to blow oil. I did the internal screw in the oil gallery conversion, but still the oil flowed. When I revved up the engine to around 1300RPM, I could literally watch the oil filling the filter bowl.

When I reassembled the head after plugging the oil gallery, I did use a little silicone to reseal the head. This morning when I took the head off to see if my plug screw had somehow come loose, I could see that excess silicone had been sucked into the valve body. Easy fix, I just took the valves out and removed the silicone. The weird thing is that the compartment with the oil gallery which I plugged, had only a few drops of oil in it. The other compartment had over 1/2" of oil in the bottom. I cleaned everything out and reassembled the head without any more silicone. When I started the engine, the compressor ran much quieter (no filter on the intake yet so I could hear the valves operating) and put out even more air. However, withing about 5 minutes I could see oil running down the inside of the filter bowl. I am now at a loss. Everything works great, and the compressor puts out a ton of air, but with this much oil being discharged into the air supply, my tires will soon be filled with more oil than air. I would also have to refill the compressor about every other time I refill the tires. I am using 30w non detergent motor oil, and filled it with 17oz. Compressor is mounted in the upright position. Any ideas??
 
My separator has a drain that I plum'd to return the oil to the compressor's inlet.
I just leave that drain open a little and never have any oil build up.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
My separator has a drain that I plum'd to return the oil to the compressor's inlet.
I just leave that drain open a little and never have any oil build up.
LG
Click to expand...

Pictures please :chug:
I am more interested in this than performing surgery on the compressor to install a screw.
 
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