Possible Frame Damage?

[RichClemson]

Hey all, new to the forum, but bought my first jeep a few months back and have been making plans to build up from the ground. I was able to find a rolling chasis I thought would work for parts, clear carfax and VIN check and the price was right...

Now, as I have the frame almost fully stripped in my garage, I think it was hit in the back left corner and caused some damage to the left side (driver's side) rail. It looks wavy to me...like it buckled a bit laterally under an impact.

I tried to capture pictures, but my question is simple and I sure has a complicated answer. Is my frame bent?

If I put a level up against the outside rail (like a 4 foot level) I can see there seems to be some wave in the frame. If I measure the distance between rails, it varies from 32.5 up by the rear (forward) spring mounts and in front of the fuel tank support. But behind the fuel tank support it drops to 32.25 and by the time it gets to where the cross member should be it's 32.125.

For what it's worth, it also "wobbles" on my jackstands.

Any thoughts or opinions?

 

[Kilo19]

my frame looks like that too, i just took the body off sunday, and besides the dirt and and who knows what else... it looks like this

 

[tarry99]

Hey all, new to the forum, but bought my first jeep a few months back and have been making plans to build up from the ground. I was able to find a rolling chasis I thought would work for parts, clear carfax and VIN check and the price was right...

Now, as I have the frame almost fully stripped in my garage, I think it was hit in the back left corner and caused some damage to the left side (driver's side) rail. It looks wavy to me...like it buckled a bit laterally under an impact.

I tried to capture pictures, but my question is simple and I sure has a complicated answer. Is my frame bent?

If I put a level up against the outside rail (like a 4 foot level) I can see there seems to be some wave in the frame. If I measure the distance between rails, it varies from 32.5 up by the rear (forward) spring mounts and in front of the fuel tank support. But behind the fuel tank support it drops to 32.25 and by the time it gets to where the cross member should be it's 32.125.

For what it's worth, it also "wobbles" on my jackstands.

The only true way to check your frame is to get it set up on a level surface using a known point from where the suspension attaches both front and rear( jack stands are OK but you just need to know that the distance to the floor is on a level surface)...........once there you need to measure in a X pattern side to side front to rear from these known suspension hanger points..............that will tell you how square everything is an whether or not it will go down the road straight............not a big deal it's just metal and can be made to align by either cutting off and rewelding or heat.

 

[73CJ]

You definitely got some twist going on there.

Might as well deal with it now rather than after you to it all fixed up.

Call a body shop with a frame rack. Tell them what you got and ask them how much. I've had it it done years ago. You might need to bring a frame drawing. Good luck

 

[RichClemson]

Well thanks to both for your thoughts. I guess I will try to take it to a shop for inspection / straightening. I may try and level it out, create a datum and measure in my shop first. I have a bad feeling the shops won't want to mess with a bare frame and will want to see it assembled again...

Good times!

 

[tarry99]

Well thanks to both for your thoughts. I guess I will try to take it to a shop for inspection / straightening. I may try and level it out, create a datum and measure in my shop first. I have a bad feeling the shops won't want to mess with a bare frame and will want to see it assembled again...

Good times!

First off it really doesn't matter what your eye is telling you about the frame rails...........checking that the suspension in there straight so it goes down the road straight is all that matters...........I would X the suspension in front and rear. If there parallel to each other your good to go.........You can also drop a plumb bob at a known point ( usually a rivet )at each corner front & rear and mark the spots on the floor and do the same on the suspension points then take a chalk line and snap a line on the floor between the points. You will get a real quick idea if its off. Fixing a rear crossmember or a body mount that has been moved is no big deal.

 

[RichClemson]

Tarry99, thinking about what you said.... Probably best done using the spring hangers welded onto the frame not the forward most and rearmost sets bolted in. Agree?

 

[tarry99]

Tarry99, thinking about what you said.... Probably best done using the spring hangers welded onto the frame not the forward most and rearmost sets bolted in. Agree?

Both................do the spring hangers front and rear and front and back at both ends............drop a Plumb to the floor and connect the dots. Once you snap a chalk line between all the points it will tell you if the front and rear are parallel to each other.

On the frame front and rear I also like to pick a known reference point, like a frame joint at the corners with a factory rivit in it..........you can always assume that the rivit locations were punched in a jig and correct on each frame. Then measure with a tape across the frame front to back in an X to opposite corners.......Both side deminisions should be close or the frame is tweeked.

Again both should be done...........one will tell you if the suspension is in there straight the other will tell you if its bent or tweeked in a corner.

 

[RichClemson]

Thanks, think I'm going to get the sidewalk chalk and plumb bob out in the next few weeks...

 

[Saddle Tramp]

I know money is tight for everyone but if you plan to do a full resto it is best to just take the jeep to a frame shop and have it straightened first. We are taking about a 26 year plus old jeep frame it isn’t likely to be perfectly straight anyway. In general for a shop to be able to work on the frame it needs to have axles and springs, and it is best to leave the body on to as when the frame gets tugged the body will move with it. Straightening the frame now can save a lot of trouble getting things to fit later.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I know money is tight for everyone but if you plan to do a full resto it is best to just take the jeep to a frame shop and have it straightened first. We are taking about a 26 year plus old jeep frame it isn’t likely to be perfectly straight anyway. In general for a shop to be able to work on the frame it needs to have axles and springs, and it is best to leave the body on to as when the frame gets tugged the body will move with it. Straightening the frame now can save a lot of trouble getting things to fit later.

Unless it drives good down the road then I don't think you need to worry about it.

 

[RichClemson]

All valid points. I am going to try the chalk line and cross measurements, but have also found a shop here locally that builds semi trailers. I am hoping to get the frame to them for a straightness check and re bend if needed. Them it's auto rust safe t caps a new rear cross member and chassis paint - maybe por15.

 

[RichClemson]

Well after chalking it out, measuring everything twice and drawing and charting out all the dimensions, I decided it wasn't that bad. The largest variance I found was 1/4 inch. However, I also noticed that trying to find the center of the forward most rear spring mounts was causing most of my measurement miss. When I use holes or frame spots that are more accurate I am within 1/8".

I chalked (pun intended) it up to an optical illusion aggravated by the frame rot. So this weekend, on go the frame caps from Safe T Cap.

Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions.

 

[RichClemson]

created graphic and chart to keep my dimensions....

 

[tarry99]

created graphic and chart to keep my dimensions....

Good Job..............

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Good Job..............

Agreed. Very nice.


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[tjmons]

Very smart choice. At least you know everything is right