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like many here, electrical is NOT my strong point...
I am starting the painless re-wire of my CJ5 and would like to know what would be a good way to apply power to and test the circuits as I go so I KNOW everything will work when I plug it all in at the end?
That sounds like a good plan .I would remove all the fuses and circuit breakers from panel and install one at a time as I tested each circuit.Record amp rating and position if not marked on fuse panel.Using a ohm meter to verifiy continuity of circuit could be useful.I keep a lawn tractor battery on my work bench for testing as it is small and easy to move around.Just keep a battery maintainer on it . Also you will need some GOOD test leads.I am sure you will get some other suggestions. mike
like many here, electrical is NOT my strong point...
I am starting the painless re-wire of my CJ5 and would like to know what would be a good way to apply power to and test the circuits as I go so I KNOW everything will work when I plug it all in at the end?
"Painful" doesn't provide you with the extra wiring to the alternator, the wiring between ignition module, coil, distributor, all that you need to salvage from your stock wiring harness,
Or build from scratch...
Any electrical component/device needs TWO THINGS to work 'Correctly',
Power (Positive) and a 'Ground Path' back to battery negative.
The OUTBOUND wiring, once you power up the fuse block, and the power goes through the fuses,
The OUTBOUND power (Positive) wire can be tested by using a LOAD, something like a headlight bulb... IF YOU PROVIDE A GROUND PATH BACK TO BATTERY NEGATIVE.
Some 'Out Bound' will have switches in the line,
Test the line to the switch, then test the lines coming FROM the switch the same way, with a bulb.
------------------------------
Now, some people will tell you to put a volt meter on the lines,
Some will tell you to use a little 'Test Light' that draws nearly no amperage,
But to actually TEST the line and it's connections, you need a LOAD,
Something like a headlight will provide that load, and you can't miss a head light when it lights up! There won't be any question if it's working or not!
Test meters, LED test lights won't tell you if the connections or switches are 'Shaky',
You get a bright bulb BEFORE the switch, but it's dimmer AFTER the switch, you know the switch isn't working quite right,
A 'Test Meter' or small 'Test Light' won't show you that, but a high load head light bulb sure will, and in short order!
--------------
The other thing I see a TON of is bad terminal crimps.
For some reason, lately, a ton of the 'Pre Made' harness guys are crimping onto the INSULATION instead of the actual copper electrical wire conductor.
They are getting just enough current through those terminals to lite up a 'Test Light' but the connection won't carry a full load.
This is a REAL pain in the butt for tracing once the harness is fully installed!
The 'Head Light' test is a good way to find those issues BEFORE you button things up, and it's good for the INITIAL testing once the fuse block has power, you can test the 'Out Bound' circuit wires right away, before they get lost in harnesses or disappear way up under the dash someplace.
Head lights come in all shapes and sizes, you don't have to use that big round dude from the front of your Jeep,
There are smaller 'Driving Light' size bulbs that draw a good current, and they are MUCH easier to work with, low cost for such a valuable test tool, and at the rate you light them up, you will break it or loose it before it burns out.
------------------------
The second part of that circuit is every bit as important as the POSITIVE.
CIRCUIT means full lap, back to the start, which is the battery NEGATIVE.
If you don't pay attention to the NEGATIVE or 'Ground Path' when you install the harness, it's going to work just like the old one... Not very well...
The standing rule is,
The same size NEGATIVE wire OUT TO BATTERY NEGATIVE as you have going into the electrical device/load.
I'd do some research into vehicle dedicated 'Grounds' before I started running too many wires here and there,
It's MUCH harder to run a dedicated 'Ground Path' wire AFTER the harness is bundled, then you find your electrical isn't' working so hot...
Most 'Ground Path' wires are DIRECT to a Negative Battery Source someplace. so they are easy, they are 'Black'...
If the 'Ground Path' is SWITCHED, like with some relays, your ignition coil, ect. then you run 'GREEN' wire when you add a 'Ground' to something.
Wire with full time battery voltage are ALWAYS RED, No 'Stripe' or tracer.
SWITCHED full time battery power is traditionally RED with White Stripe,
While Switched & Fused Power can be any color code, and any color for that matter...
Just keep a running drawing of what you do and keep it in your manual.
You WILL need it sooner or later, and this stuff won't stay in your head for long, there is too much of it....
No wiring diagram, you start from SCRATCH EVERY TIME,
So colored pencils and a diagram, no matter how crude, will save your butt more times than you can count!
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
TexasBlues, while you search your electrical system for weak spots as the CJs have many, I would suggest making sure all the various connectors are good. This is where I have found quite a number of problems, especially the ones that get used a lot. If you can eliminate them completly. A good soldered joint is a lot better than a worn out plug.
like many here, electrical is NOT my strong point...
I am starting the painless re-wire of my CJ5 and would like to know what would be a good way to apply power to and test the circuits as I go so I KNOW everything will work when I plug it all in at the end?
I used the same materials running a grounding buss across the rear wheels arch of the frame and connecting to the front pictured buss and battery. Now everything wired in my '80 CJ7 runs through two wires from source to load and back to battery ground.
I was surprised how many electrical devices weren't working until I grounded everything as shown.
WIRING ISN'T DIFFICULT!
It's actually very easy, simple to get a grasp on!
There is just a different set of rules you need to get used to...
It's a different dicipline that most of you didn't start young with, and you have a 'Phobia'... A fear you CAN NOT learn it at your age,
Or some think it will take a lot of time to learn.
THE BASICS ARE EASY!
What scares the 'Nuggets' out of most people are wiring diagrams,
And what happens if they screw up...
First of all, wiring diagrams are like road maps. If you can read a map, you can read a wiring diagram,
And once you get that done pretty well, an electrical schematic.
The difference is,
Diagram uses common representations of things like starters, lights, ect.
While electrical schematics have a very specific set of rules and things aren't representing in picture form.
Schematics have very specific rules about how wiring runs are crossed, when/where they terminate, and the electrical devices have a 'Scientific' representation that doesn't look like the actual component/device.
A starter or alternator is shown as coils of wire, terminals, connections, ect., instead of the actual component, since in an electrical schematic the rest of the unit, the hard parts that don't conduct electricity, are of no importance to the path of current.
Once you figure out if you are looking at a diagram or schmatic, the rest is CAKE!
------------------------
The other thing about wiring diagrams is they are so small and cluttered.
There are a LOT of things going on, and the printers only have so much room to shove all that into a couple of small pages...
SIMPLY SCAN THE WIRING DIAGRAM AT HIGH RESLOUTION,
AND BLOW IT UP TO 'LEGAL' SIZE, OR SECTION IT OUT IN PIECES YOU ARE GOING TO DO AT THE MOMENT.
YOU don't need the tail lights when you are working on the head lights,
While you have the wiring diagram in an editor, you can DELETE the stuff you don't have or don't want, and that will give you a wiring diagram SPECIFIC to your vehicle...
Print it out on the largest format you can and you are off to the races!
Don't be afraid to blow up ANY section that is densely packed or confusing, it's MUCH easier to figure out what's going on when it's in a larger format,
And I often add COLOR to the black & white diagrams from books.
Knowing the basic color wire you are looking for from diagram to Jeep is a HUGE help!
---------------------
Would a thread on electrical basics help?
I have a couple saved and could post them...
WIRING ISN'T DIFFICULT!
It's actually very easy, simple to get a grasp on!
There is just a different set of rules you need to get used to...
It's a different dicipline that most of you didn't start young with, and you have a 'Phobia'... A fear you CAN NOT learn it at your age,
Or some think it will take a lot of time to learn.
THE BASICS ARE EASY!
What scares the 'Nuggets' out of most people are wiring diagrams,
And what happens if they screw up...
First of all, wiring diagrams are like road maps. If you can read a map, you can read a wiring diagram,
And once you get that done pretty well, an electrical schematic.
The difference is,
Diagram uses common representations of things like starters, lights, ect.
While electrical schematics have a very specific set of rules and things aren't representing in picture form.
Schematics have very specific rules about how wiring runs are crossed, when/where they terminate, and the electrical devices have a 'Scientific' representation that doesn't look like the actual component/device.
A starter or alternator is shown as coils of wire, terminals, connections, ect., instead of the actual component, since in an electrical schematic the rest of the unit, the hard parts that don't conduct electricity, are of no importance to the path of current.
Once you figure out if you are looking at a diagram or schmatic, the rest is CAKE!
------------------------
The other thing about wiring diagrams is they are so small and cluttered.
There are a LOT of things going on, and the printers only have so much room to shove all that into a couple of small pages...
SIMPLY SCAN THE WIRING DIAGRAM AT HIGH RESLOUTION,
AND BLOW IT UP TO 'LEGAL' SIZE, OR SECTION IT OUT IN PIECES YOU ARE GOING TO DO AT THE MOMENT.
YOU don't need the tail lights when you are working on the head lights,
While you have the wiring diagram in an editor, you can DELETE the stuff you don't have or don't want, and that will give you a wiring diagram SPECIFIC to your vehicle...
Print it out on the largest format you can and you are off to the races!
Don't be afraid to blow up ANY section that is densely packed or confusing, it's MUCH easier to figure out what's going on when it's in a larger format,
And I often add COLOR to the black & white diagrams from books.
Knowing the basic color wire you are looking for from diagram to Jeep is a HUGE help!
---------------------
Would a thread on electrical basics help?
I have a couple saved and could post them...
In my experience, I have hardly ever needed to use a schematic when working on the wiring on my Jeep. I won't say that I never have, but not often at all. I use a wiring diagram, in most cases. Personally, I have a digital version, that I blow up on my television, and a version on my smartphone for quick reference. I think maybe a wiring basics thread would probably help people out. What a great idea.
Covers A LOT of stuff, which you won't catch it all at one time, there simply is no way to take it all in and remember it, so a bookmark or print probably wouldn't be a bad idea if you were interested...
I almost ALWAYS start with a diagram.
I want to see what the factory screwed up and correct what I can,
Then I simply follow the diagram.
Planning is 99.9% of the battle, and getting rid of the 'A Mixture of Cars' (AMC) mistakes and add on's that weren't well thought out makes a pretty big difference.
Along with finding and killing what PO's screwed up before you ever saw the CJ you have now and intend to keep!
Once you have all your components, accessories, add ons in the diagram and figure out how to EFFICIENTLY wire them,
Then the actual MECHANICAL wiring is a snap and works right the first time...
Covers A LOT of stuff, which you won't catch it all at one time, there simply is no way to take it all in and remember it, so a bookmark or print probably wouldn't be a bad idea if you were interested...
I almost ALWAYS start with a diagram.
I want to see what the factory screwed up and correct what I can,
Then I simply follow the diagram.
Planning is 99.9% of the battle, and getting rid of the 'A Mixture of Cars' (AMC) mistakes and add on's that weren't well thought out makes a pretty big difference.
Along with finding and killing what PO's screwed up before you ever saw the CJ you have now and intend to keep!
Once you have all your components, accessories, add ons in the diagram and figure out how to EFFICIENTLY wire them,
Then the actual MECHANICAL wiring is a snap and works right the first time...
I used the same materials running a grounding buss across the rear wheels arch of the frame and connecting to the front pictured buss and battery. Now everything wired in my '80 CJ7 runs through two wires from source to load and back to battery ground.
I was surprised how many electrical devices weren't working until I grounded everything as shown.
WIRING ISN'T DIFFICULT!
It's actually very easy, simple to get a grasp on!
There is just a different set of rules you need to get used to...
It's a different dicipline that most of you didn't start young with, and you have a 'Phobia'... A fear you CAN NOT learn it at your age,
Or some think it will take a lot of time to learn.
THE BASICS ARE EASY!
What scares the 'Nuggets' out of most people are wiring diagrams,
And what happens if they screw up...
First of all, wiring diagrams are like road maps. If you can read a map, you can read a wiring diagram,
And once you get that done pretty well, an electrical schematic.
The difference is,
Diagram uses common representations of things like starters, lights, ect.
While electrical schematics have a very specific set of rules and things aren't representing in picture form.
Schematics have very specific rules about how wiring runs are crossed, when/where they terminate, and the electrical devices have a 'Scientific' representation that doesn't look like the actual component/device.
A starter or alternator is shown as coils of wire, terminals, connections, ect., instead of the actual component, since in an electrical schematic the rest of the unit, the hard parts that don't conduct electricity, are of no importance to the path of current.
Once you figure out if you are looking at a diagram or schmatic, the rest is CAKE!
------------------------
The other thing about wiring diagrams is they are so small and cluttered.
There are a LOT of things going on, and the printers only have so much room to shove all that into a couple of small pages...
SIMPLY SCAN THE WIRING DIAGRAM AT HIGH RESLOUTION,
AND BLOW IT UP TO 'LEGAL' SIZE, OR SECTION IT OUT IN PIECES YOU ARE GOING TO DO AT THE MOMENT.
YOU don't need the tail lights when you are working on the head lights,
While you have the wiring diagram in an editor, you can DELETE the stuff you don't have or don't want, and that will give you a wiring diagram SPECIFIC to your vehicle...
Print it out on the largest format you can and you are off to the races!
Don't be afraid to blow up ANY section that is densely packed or confusing, it's MUCH easier to figure out what's going on when it's in a larger format,
And I often add COLOR to the black & white diagrams from books.
Knowing the basic color wire you are looking for from diagram to Jeep is a HUGE help!
---------------------
Would a thread on electrical basics help?
I have a couple saved and could post them...
i have blown my schematic up to 36x24 and plan to highlight the circuit that i am working on at that time... i dont have a pdf editor... youre right, wiring is NOT hard... in my case, its the underlying thought that i am missing something and that when it comes time to hook it up, nothing will work... the labeling on the wires will help a great deal, but i am still curious if powering it up is a good idea, and if so... what to use for a power source...
i got the set of grounding straps (a great big wide one and 3 smaller ones) to use and also wonder if they are sufficient, OR if the bus idea is a better way to go...
It one thing I virtually never see on a POWER Buss is a fuse/fusible link.
You don't need one on the 'Ground Path' buss, but the power bar needs a 'Feed' protection to the buss if it's not right close to the battery power,
And it needs circuit protection OUT to protect the WIRES going to your loads.
A 'Fuse' might be needed before you get to the device to protect the DEVICE,
The fusing BEFORE the Buss, or at the 'Head' of the lines out are to protect THE LINES, NOT THE DEVICE in many cases...
No reason it can't do both on a DEDICATED feed line, but on a general power access line, like to the fuse block,
That main power feed to the fuse block NEEDS PROTECTION, it's going a LONG way with a lot of sharp edges, hot parts, pinch points, ect.
With a Buss, there is no fuse protection YOU have to add it.
With big, fat wires, you need big, fat protection.
Really close to the battery, small chance if wires getting rubbed through, pinched, cooked through, ect.
But the wiring coming OFF the POWER Buss need PROTECTION,
Since that wiring is going someplace, and it's full time 'Hot', it NEEDS PROTECTION.
----
I've said it before, I'll say it again,
If you don't put circuit protection in NOW, then go burn your Jeep down in a CONTROLLED SITUATION,
So it doesn't burn down at 3AM sitting in the garage while the kids are home and asleep...
----
Fusible Links are for large feed wires to things like heavy lighting, Alternator, Your fuse block feed wire, ect.
Fuses, in the fuse block, are for smaller draw devices,
Dash lighting, park/tail/turn, reasonable size radio, wipers, all the other gadgets that you will normally have.
I'm a BIG BELIEVER in electrical devices when you can use them, my air compressor is electric, winches, ect. are all good ideas since if the vehicle runs, you have an unlimited supply of current,
And as for air compressors, ect. there are only so many spots you can mount anything on the front of the engine...
There are just safety rules, and some folks don't take those safety rules into consideration like they would if it were mechanical, like NOT using a match to see into the gas tank, and NOT sticking your fingers in the pulleys or fan,
The brain just seems to fail them when wiring is involved...
------------
Undersized Wiring, Circuit Protection and Routing Failures are what I see most, Along with corrosion...
Run an electrical current through ANYTHING and it corrodes about 50 times faster than the base electrical conducting material.
This is just physics and currently it's a carved in stone reality we have to deal with, and about 90% of what I see most is preventable.
Heat Shrink Tubing, Solder with silver content, dielectric grease and heat shrink tubing will solve most of what I see...
Undersized wiring is a huge deal for us. Jeep didn't leave any 'Expansion' room in the wire gauge sizes.
Just stronger head lights will often cook the terminals or switching...
--------
On that same thread, between the connection points you use for those 'Ground' straps, and the exposed material they are usually made of (Tinned Copper strands) it doesn't take long for the connection points and conductor it's self to fail.
Up here in the land of road salt, or down around ocean air those woven ground straps don't last long and create problems.
When the strap isn't what failed, it's the connection points rusting/corroding.
No DC electrical device works PROPERLY without a direct 'Ground Path' back to the battery to complete the circuit.
Any failures/resistance in that 'Ground Path' circuit and the device is crippled...
Resistance builds resistance, resistance in the Feed/'Ground' sides of the circuits will cause issues in things like motors, lights, ect.
Lights, as you know and can plainly see, get dimmer.
Electric motors get 'Hot' trying to work on low current flow, brushes eat into the armatures, the motor turns slower than it was intended, so the circuit stays connected longer and builds more heat,
Lower current means voltage drops and the amperage will arc/burn into the brushes/armatures and the motor fails prematurely...
In the case of the alternator, without proper 'Ground Path', the alternator will stay trying to charge the battery/run the vehicle full time, and that's VERY hard on the regulator...
Alternator slip rings weren't intended to have full current thrown at them in 100% duty cycle at full current, so it's hard on the rings and brushes, also the regulator/rectifier.
A simple dedicated 'Ground Path' from the case to battery negative (or battery negative cable) will solve a ton of the issues the 'Charging System' has, usually reducing complaints and the 'Want' for those expensive, proprietary 'Super Duper' alternators.
-------------
An interesting fact, and a Quirk of electricity is that the alternator will charge TWO batteries easier than it will a single battery...
A single battery gets discharged MUCH more than two batteries, so the alternator has to work VERY hard to charge it back up,
While TWO batteries will only throw off the 'Surface Charge' when you have a hard start, and the 'Surface Charge' is MUCH easier for the alternator to replace than a deep single battery discharge.
It's the same about of 'Watts' or 'Current', the difference is in the way the batteries demand the charge, Surface or 'Superficial' charging is what we often refer to as a 'Trickle' charge, so the alternator doesn't have to work nearly as hard to produce small amounts of current over time,
Than having to produce at full output to bring a single battery back from a deep plate discharge/chemical energy depletion.
-------------
As for testing source for power, ANY battery will work.
The 1.5 volt 'Watch' battery in most circuit testers will 'Test' the wiring,
But your normal vehicle battery won't hurt a thing...
Two things to check, NOT every 'Black' wire is a 'Ground'!
I've seen three people on the forums have 'Smoke' come out in the last couple of months when the 'Painless' kit had a 'Black' wire they connected as a 'Ground'... So double check any 'Black' wires before you automatically connect them as a 'Ground'...
--------
The second thing is, any time you run the 'Power' wire to anything, make sure you run a 'Ground Path' wire to it.
Dash need a SINGLE solid 'Ground Path' wire connected to it for all gauges, and I usually connect that to one of the mounting screws for the gauge cluster...
You don't have to get stupid, just the larger drain devices,
Wipers, Lights, Alternator, Starter Gets A CABLE, not a 'Wire', Not hard at all to run a 'Black Ground Path' 12 ga. wire to the back for the lights/fuel tank so your sender works in the tank, ect.
Ignition HARNESS is always a good idea, the ignition ALWAYS works better when the module/coil gets a good, solid 'Ground Path'...
Ground Path buss bars or even a single dedicated connection point for dedicated grounds are a great idea, and I'm a big proponent.
A simple brass bolt as a 'Binding Terminal' for the added 'Ground' wires will ensure your electrical devices work fine for years, and it's a SINGLE point where you have to clean/maintain if/when you have electrical issues or during regular maintenance.
--------------------------------
With most factory ignitions, this is a 'Black' wire between distributor and ignition module.
If you have a Prestolite ignition, the module/coil 'Ground' is the black wire screwed to a sheet metal fender on the passenger side,
With a HEI Clone, it's the distributor housing it's self, more specifically, the MODULE MOUNTING SCREW NEXT TO COIL/BATTERY connection (Green/Red Wires on the module)
That module mounting screw is a PAIN, but easy to fix,
Module has 'Unknown' terminal material, screw is steel, housing is aluminum, oil reside between housing and engine, then cast iron engine block, then 'Ground Path' struggles through head bolts to the engine head, through the head, then to the 'Ground Cable' from the battery.
As you can see, this is a difficult path for the 'Ground' to find it's way through easily.
So a LONGER SCREW (preferably brass) holding that one end of the module down, with an extra (preferably brass) nut on the bottom gives you an attachment point for a 'DIRECT GROUND PATH' for the module/coil in that HEI clone...
It cost 10¢, takes 10 minutes to install and IMMEDIATELY sends more spark energy to your spark plugs to make better fuel mileage!
Gas is expensive, brass screws are cheap, and the one time cost of a brass screw saves you money every time you fill up the tank...
Think about it!
Some guys complain about having to drill the housing for a screw to pass through since some of the 'China' housings have a really strange (self tapping) screw installed...
BUT, It's a one time thing, you don't have to remove the distributor from the engine, and again, it's still a 20 minute project that saves you fuel every stop at the pump...
You are only drilling the ONE hole, and you don't need a hole any bigger than what's in the module since the screw has to pass through the module first, you don't have to get carried away...
Not if you are smart...
Better to pick up your 'Power Feed' at the end of the positive battery cable at the starter relay.
This keeps your power buss terminal away from corrosives that creep up on all batteries so the terminals don't rot off right away and cause issues,
AND,
If you use some CIRCUIT PROTECTION for that Buss, Like a FUSIBLE LINK,
Use it right at the Starter Relay connection.
If something shorts out your Buss (say, an accident?) the fusible link blows at the starter relay,
NOT at the battery, and doesn't touch off a battery explosion or start a fire.
and what is the ground side of the bus grounded to?
If you are going to do this correctly...
You will have a CUSTOM NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE MADE...
It will have heavy gauge battery terminal on one end, when that terminal is crimped on the have gauge cable,
You simply have the guy crimp in a 10 Ga. wire into the battery terminal crimp.
The other end of that cable will have a HEAVY 3/8" hole lug terminal at the other end with TWO 10ga. wires crimped into it.
One goes to your 'Ground Buss' or brass terminal bolt for all the 'Grounds',
And the other goes to the engine block or to the alternator housing.
Remember to solder and heat shrink the terminals to keep crud out and that will suffice for a 'Ground' cable that will last as long as you will own it. (or your grand kids will own it!)
Now, a word on 'Cables' for winches and starters, jumper cables, ect...
FINE STRAND WELDING CABLE from any welding shop, and most 'NAPA' parts stores...
Fine strand cable bends easier, easier to work with,
Find strand cable passes more current than heavy strand 'Battery' cables do.
Fine strand WELDING cable is usually VIRGIN COPPER, NO ALLOYS, so it's VERY good at moving electrical current,
Welding cable is full size, not overrated for size like 'Battery' cable is, you get what you pay for,
Welding cable has an insulation that was DESIGNED & INTENDED to be dragged over sharp, hot edges, across concrete floors and gravel/sand, through chemicals/oil crud, ect.
High temp, high abrasion, flexible, chemical resistant... Sound like anywhere you are going to put it?
Buy your cable and terminals at NAPA or welding stores they will usually crimp your terminals on for free right there, and they will have the heat shrink in sizes to do the job right...
Same goes for Positive power cables also...
thats a great idea and i may look into one of those to clean it up, and to ensure good connections
The more 'OPEN' connections you have, the more maintenance you have to do, and the more 'Potential' failure points you have.
Anything outside of an environmentally protected environment is fair game for crud, corrosives, damage,
AND,
Unintended connections, like getting a wrench or something else conductive into the 'Hot' terminals.
Remember, ONE connection terminal can hold several wires to keep the number of connectors down you have to maintain...
Rules still apply, electrical silver bearing solder for an ELECTRICAL CONNECTION, ENVIRONMENTAL SEAL IT UP AS BEST YOU CAN.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and out of water/mud slinging and I don't see an issue with something like that.
Since it's not sealed up completely (and virtually none are) a simple tin or aluminum shield over it and mounted so it CAN DRAIN if it gets water in it would be fine.
Tires sling an INCREDIBLE amount of water and mud, so the simple shield will break 90% what comes at it under the hood,
Totally unnecessary if you mount it in the cab...
But you are back to hanging up side down under the dash to get anything fixed again...
If it goes in the engine bay, you MUST mount it so the terminals can DRAIN when they get wet,
Otherwise the corrosion WILL eat it over time.
The more corrosive the water (Salt water/road salt, ect.) the faster it will go down...
A good dose of dielectric grease in everything before you put the fuses, ect. on will help, but most people doing this kind of thing are worried about grease dripping out on the fender...
They want 'Pretty' over Practical...
Personally, I just want it to WORK when I turn the key and flip the switches!
I could really give a less what it looks like...
I'll tidy things up, but when 'Tidy' gets into function or protection, that's where I draw the line.
mike
less what it looks like...