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Rear Axle Relocation

Rear Axle Relocation

JR74CJ5

Missing-Presumed Wheeling
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Plumas Lake, CA, USA
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1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
Hi Guys,

So on my CJ5 , after I've installed this new suspension, I'm still having rubbing issues on the front edge of the rear wheel-wells.

I'm thinking of stretching the rear end.

I know I'll need to do a few things to do it right, and have two options floating in my mind...

1) Hang the rear shackle off the outside of my sturdy bumper (many of you will remember the build - It may as well be an extension of my frame) low enough to allow movement, and possibly add small amount of lift to the rear (the equivalent of longer shackle theory without the longer shackles...) THis will require a custom gas tank build, relocation of the gas fill spout, and rear body trimming. It will move the whole axle back increasing wheel-base, helping stability and helping to prevent topple over on hill climes.

2) I can slightly relocate the actual axle on the springs where they are, probably 1-2" max offset from center of spring towards the rear of the jeep. This would be easier, but is it feasible or frowned upon?

I know there are some easier options, such as buy a CJ7 and swap all my newer parts over, but I'm trying to avoid that at the moment...

So thoughts on my dilemma? Need more info (if I haven't explained problem and proposed solutions good enough, let me know)

For reference, here is the Rear Bumper I "plan" to attach shackle mounts from...

5886d1309531097-rear-towing-bumper-info-done3.jpg


http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f49/rear-towing-bumper-info-9082/index3.html#post77467

:chug:
~ Jr
 
there's always waggie (I think) springs that are offset 2". You might even get away without a new gas tank. Your hangers would not have to be moved.
I have a chart somewhere I'll look for. :D
 
yeah,mounting your rear hangers on the bumper is an option..here is one of mine..

006.webp

007.webp
 
A quick fix would be to install longer bump stops to stop the rubbing, that's what I did when the 35s were added. I don't think you really need that much articulation, especially with lockers. I am sure you have considered the sawzall. I have heard of guys redrilling a different location for the pins that locate the axle. That might require a longer driveshaft though. I'm all for the cheap fix.
 
But Old Dog, I have new OME springs! lol

:D

I like that harleydragon.

Since posting, I've found a bit more info around on this too... seems fairly common...

Even boomerang shaped shackles (not the moving ones, but "L" / boomerang shaped)

:chug:
 
A quick fix would be to install longer bump stops to stop the rubbing, that's what I did when the 35s were added. I don't think you really need that much articulation, especially with lockers. I am sure you have considered the sawzall. I have heard of guys redrilling a different location for the pins that locate the axle. That might require a longer driveshaft though.

I need to show you all what I mean with the rubbing... it's like the axle moved forward towards the front of the jeep. there is some rubbing I plan to fix with bump stops though, so you're not at all off base, but the axle itself needs to move towards the back of the jeep... and :o:o:o be squared... which apparently I did not do... :o:o:o

I cant trim much from the front of the wells because i have under seat fuel im not wanting to lose... and the cab / tub reinforcement seems to be right along there...
 
:doh:What a min. you just put OME springs on didn't you.:o
I guess you are going to move your mounts. :D
 
JR. so what your saying is that your springs are flat enough, that when compressed they are going neg. arch, making them shorter, so now they rub in the front of the rear wheelwell.? Do you think you are going to have problems in the front also.
 
slide the axle back a hole, how much will this move the axle? Is the offset hole in the spring or the perch?:cool:
 
slide the axle back a hole, how much will this move the axle? Is the offset hole in the spring or the perch?:cool:

the offset hole if it has one will be in the perch..the head of the bolt that holds the spring pack together is what fits into the hole..It will move the axle 1 -1 1/2 inches.you won't know until you see if the perch has more than one hole and how far they are apart.Just my personal feelings,but I don't like the idea of moving the load off the center of the spring..
 
My perches don't have multiple centering holes, but I was playing with that option... I feel kind of the way Harley does about it...

Old dog, that's closer to what I mean, but I'm not sure it's due to the spring flattening. I'd have to check to be sure... Basically its as if I moved the axle during install. I know it was slightly stuffed in before, and seemed closer to the front of the wheel well than the rear, but not quite this much...

Kinda a crappy example, and not AS drastic, but basically here's my no flex position.

attachment.php


If that tire stuffs much at all, it gets into the fender towards door opening.

:chug:

I'll get some pictures soon to post too, and help explain further...

example.webp
 
Take a peek at the rear driveshaft to see if the grease mark is further down the splines. I would think it is if the axle is moving forward more so then before.
 
if it looks different than it did before,are you sure that the leaf spring bolt is in the hole on the perch ??
 
Take a peek at the rear drive shaft to see if the grease mark is further down the splines. I would think it is if the axle is moving forward more so then before.

Drive shaft had to be completely redone as I installed my SM420 during the same "build"... I know something happened though because I had to re make my exhaust turnouts to clear the tires... should have been my first clue something was not right...

if it looks different than it did before,are you sure that the leaf spring bolt is in the hole on the perch ??

yes. Although there is some question as to if I have the spring orientation correct, though doubtful I could have gotten it backwards... I will check that as well.

I just spoke to Rockyroad outfitters and received the instructions I wish I would have had from the beginning. Would have been so much easier...
 
get a shot of your shackles too
 
Let us just say, hypothetically, that the springs do not carry the axle in the center but rather farther to the rear. Is there any possibility that the springs are on backwards?:confused:
 
My perches don't have multiple centering holes, but I was playing with that option... I feel kind of the way Harley does about it...

Old dog, that's closer to what I mean, but I'm not sure it's due to the spring flattening. I'd have to check to be sure... Basically its as if I moved the axle during install. I know it was slightly stuffed in before, and seemed closer to the front of the wheel well than the rear, but not quite this much...

Kinda a crappy example, and not AS drastic, but basically here's my no flex position.

attachment.php


If that tire stuffs much at all, it gets into the fender towards door opening.

:chug:

I'll get some pictures soon to post too, and help explain further...

:)JR so what is the angle of the shackle?...........if properly installed with weight on it the shackle should be leaning 5-15 degrees to the rear.......if the shackle is leaning forward with weight the mounts are to close together for the spring length..............Note: the rear axle at rest will always be somewhat off centered to the front in relation to the center of the wheel well ...........most times folks are trimming the rear of the wheel well to make clearance for the axle moving rearward during spring compression, never hear about issues hitting up front...........check the shackle position.

:D:D:D:D
 
I have some pin relocators (axle relocation plates) that came on a set of springs I bought, The bolt to your spring pack and offset the pin 1 inch. If you are interested in these PM me.
 

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