Rebuilding Ford T18 for CJ5

[Turbogus]

Thanks so much guys for your responses, the other forums I've posted to that are normally helpful were not so much as this one.

 

[Turbogus]

Well the guy up in Portland got back to me and posted;

"I did initially when I started my "restoration" of the truck to see about changing gear ratios, which is a foolhardy idea for me. So I got a t19 to fix the gear ratio issue. When I looked inside I did not notice any noticeable wear or issues, it was shifting fine, just my personal opinion of the gear ratio is why I pulled it."

I responded back as to wether he knew it was a wide ratio (granny) or close ratio.

 

[Hedgehog]

Never really heard of a close ratio Ford. Sure it comes up with the CJ T-18 's, but never seems to come up with the Ford. It sounds like the guy wanted a road vehicle, that's why he recommended it for a 4wd or crawler. It sounds like you want a crawler.

 

[Turbogus]

Since it was indeterminate where he got it from or when he installed this T-18 into his truck is unknown, what with the troubles mine has, I didn't want to chance a 4.02 further complicating this project.
Since the CJ5 is short wheelbase I believe it's not practical for speed but excells in crawl which is why I began this journey with this wrecking yard 6.32 T-18 .

 

[tarry99]

Here is the NOS parts you need..........Plus the Idler and counter shaft and needle bearings.............Getting hard to find.........This is the last set I have or I would sell them...............

These gear boxes are still popular in Drilling equipment.......on the Industrial side of things.......you might try calling some of these well driller supply houses in the mid-west........that's where I used to get all my parts.

 

[Turbogus]

Cool! Thanks Tarry! Learning with pictures is great for a neophyte like me!
I wish mine were as clean. What kind of degreaser do you guys use the clean these gears up with Simple Green? Carb Cleaner, Frumpled Flustic?

I'm seeing gears from www.ampdistributing.com and their prices seem resonable, has anyone used these guys? I looking at Second (&1st) Synchrozizer gear, reverse idler gear and countershaft aft gear or complete assy.

 

[Hedgehog]

Most anything degreaserish will work, these aren't exactly delicate things to work with. When I had my Rusty old T18A apart for a rebuild, I used a fairly stiff wire wheel on my angle grinder. Don't use the wheel on your syncros though.

Cleaning inside the case can be fun. ... watch out for the magnet stuck to the bottom of the case. Mine came loose and had to use some Marine-tex to stick it back down.

 

[Turbogus]

Good to know Hedgehog! Thanks.
I'm hoping to find time today or tomorrow to remove the reverse idler. I got this 3/4 x 8" brass drift from NAPA this week and see what I can do

 

[Turbogus]

Well I stopped by NAPA to see if there was a shorter or longer drift but all they had was 6" or 8". I got a 6" in hopes of having clearance in the case for the drift and mallet but it was too tight. I tried doubling up the two drifts and I did get a few good strong smacks but for lack of calipers I think it only moved 1 or 2mm at most. The countershaft came right out by contrast for lacking a pilot shaft a few roller bearings slipped out but as these come in the rebuild kit I'm not too concerned at this point.
No word from the Craigslist guy in Portland, but I'm in no rush on this.

 

[Hedgehog]

Don't be afraid to hit him u again. Folks on Craigslist commonly don't respond well to questions about what they post. He was very specific about the gearing in his post.

 

[Turbogus]

What do you guys think of this idea to remove that dang Reverse Idler shaft?

 

[Hedgehog]

Should work. One thing I have to ask. Are you sure you are removing it in the correct direction? It slips my mind which is correct, but you need to be sure to remove it in the right direction.

 

[Turbogus]

I checked at the AAMCO shop and they have extra long drifts but they said this should work as well, Hedgehog.

According to the Tremec manual;
3-11 REMOVAL OF REVERSE IDLER IDLER GEAR ASSEMBLY (See figure 3-12 or 3-13).
a. Remove bolt (58) and shift lock plate (59).
b. Use angle drift T-18 /19-006 (6, figure T-1) or equivalent to tap reverse idler gear shaft (61) rearward until press fit portion of shaft clears case (77). Then, remove reverse idler shaft by hand.

I suppose this means that the shaft is tapered at one end.

 

[Hedgehog]

It is tapered and serious damage can occur if the shaft is driven in the wrong direction .... That's pretty much what the CJ manual said about the T18A, very similar - not exactly the same.

It looks like you are proceeding correctly. When I did mine (actually a couple) the shaft wasn't all that difficult to move, made all the easier with the shaft having a cup in the end of the shaft to put the drift in. It was so easy I don't have much recollection about it. Where you WILL have fun is putting all of it back in. Everything will be heavy, there won't be much room and things need to line up precisely. Have lots of grease ready to stick those needle bearings in place. There are lots of'em too.

 

[Turbogus]

Yep and with the concave shape of the end of the shaft this carrige bolt will likely fit right in.

 

[dukecharmary]

I had some trouble finding a T-18 also. Ended up calling all the Transmission shops around asking about them. Most modern shops today don't do manual trannys especially the older ones, but kept asking and got a lead to a large shop that has some older trannys. I got one for 650 rebuilt and they installed the Novak conversion for me. One thing to watch for is the second gear sychro ring. There are 3 different ones for the T-18 depending on year. The keyways are different sizes. The shop installed the wrong one and I could not shift into 2nd. Had to pull it back out and install the $30 correct ring.
Good luck

 

[dukecharmary]

Oops I just found the other pages, I thought I had replied before. Good going...

 

[Turbogus]

No problem Duke,

The craigslist guy up in Portland sent me some pic of the internals of his '68 T-18 and it seems to look a damnsight better than mine with regard to the Reverse Idler Gear and 2nd & Low synchronizer ring gear.

 

[Hedgehog]

That is the normal amount of chipping you'd expect in a T-18 . I'm sure you can see why I/we were less than excited about the excessive wear in your Transmission . The second one looks very good and I believe the purchase price will be less than the extra parts you'll need for the other one. You might be able to skip the rebuild all together with this one.

PS - yes, I know I'm sort of beating a dead horse here. I'm a big T-18 believer and want the best for anyone adapting one to their CJ.

 

[Turbogus]

I was becoming less enthusiastic myself given the hassle of getting that dang Reverse Idler Gear shaft out. At the time I puchased this corrupt T-18 there was no telling what it was like internally. It was stuck in gear and the Control Housing would only yield 3/4 of an inch so an inspection was impossible. I didn't take too much of a hit though as the wrecking yard sold me this at core ~ $80 and with the experience gained I couldn't even take a shop class that would've been cheaper.