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Removing Flywheel Bolts

Removing Flywheel Bolts
Find'n the CORRECT length f'wheel bolts can be a real PITA.
Don't get rid of your OEM ones.
LG
 
If you haven't used an impact driver don't be discouraged if it doesn't zip the bolts right off. Leave it on there pounding away, sometimes it takes a little while to loosen things up. Electric impact drivers can be very expensive and some surprisingly expensive ones aren't worth a darn. I've had two Harbor Freight impacts and they are well worth the money. My first one was orange, it was Okay, used it a lot and gave it to a freind. The second one is the newer dark red unit and the thing is an absolute beast.

Now I'm into air wrenches. The electric one works great but it is a little big or long and difficult to get into small spaces. Air wrenches are smaller and easier to work with.

I use blue lock tight, as they say, it doesn't hurt and I believe my manual says to use it, but I won't sware on it. I know my Jeep guy uses it on flywheel bolts.

Bolts - Look at the bolts you remove. I mean really look at them. If the corners are frayed or if the threads look compromised in any way replace them. If the treads look bad it doesn't hurt to run a tap in the flywheel to help clean things up. The tap will return the threads to spec. and help clean out any old lock tight or who knows, grease maybe. With the torque used to hold your flywheel on it never hurts to have things as clean as possible. By the way, youj'll have to find a way to hold the flywheel while torquing the nuts. +100 fl/lbs is plenty of force to overcome compression. A clue, your flywheel will have several outside bolt holes use those and a cheater bar ... and a friend, I do mine alone and it's not fun trying to use real serious torque while holding another heavy bar.
 
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Thanks Hedgehog. I did use a steel bar mounted between two clutch plate bolts to keep it from turning. Worked really well.

Good note about making sure everything is clean and will be sure to look everything over. Thinking I will be using the blue for re-install.

Hate when it will be a day or two before trying something again, I get too anxious.
 
By the way, youj'll have to find a way to hold the flywheel while torquing the nuts. +100 fl/lbs is plenty of force to overcome compression. A clue, your flywheel will have several outside bolt holes use those and a cheater bar ... and a friend, I do mine alone and it's not fun trying to use real serious torque while holding another heavy bar.
I torque the bolts by turning the flywheel in such a position that the swing of the wrench counter balances the flywheel and keeps it from moving. I've been doing it this way for years and it's been fast and effective for me. Give it a try, the bolt should be anywhere from 10-2 o'clock taking short down strokes with the wrench to counter balance.
 
That sounds reasonable. I generally let the thing set and move around the flywheel and have noticed that in certain positions there isn't much need for a cheater bar. Over the years I've found that my impact wrench brings the bolts up close to final torque so I bring them close in several steps, NOT one big jump, but the same way you would with a regular wrench. When the are close the final set is with my torque wrench ...... which is getting sorta old, I think it's time for a new one. Hate to loose an old friend but when it's time it's time.
 
Friends electric took care of them. It didn't like it but they eventually came off.

Now OT, trying to find the source of all the oil loss and splatter. With the flywheel removed, it doesn't appear the rear main seal is the culprit. Looks like the blowby from the engine is percolating oil through the breather down the backside of the engine and around the bellhousing making quite a mess. Engine needs to be rebuilt but that's a little later. Always need to re-fill the T-5 but it's getting swapped out anyways so doesn't matter. Because of a line of residue on the body's underside, it appears oil is being flung from the rear yoke of the Dana 300 but I've never had to top it off. Can the engine or tranny oil make it back that far? While it's off, I may replace the yoke seals on the Transfer Case anyways. How difficult/tricky is that?

Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated.
 
Your imput shaft seal could be bad with oil leaking FORWARD. You said that your Transmission always needs refilling and that oil/grease needs to be going somewhere. If your T-5 isn't jumping out of gear or doing any of the dozen things a bad Transmission can do there really isn't a reason to change it out. I'd deffinately change the input shaft seal though. once the clutch is out this should be a fairly easy thing to do, you might net even need to remove the bell housing. ..... unless, did you just move the Transmission /Transfer Case back or did you remove it/them from the jeep?
 
Everything is out from the Transfer Case to the flywheel. The T-5 wasn't jumping out of gear but synchros appeared bad, etc. In general it needed to be rebuilt but I picked up a T177 anyways to swap out.

Thinking about getting the input and output shaft seals replaced. Interesting thought about leaking foward.
 
? 177 ...... or 176
 
177. Thought I had it confused?
 
I'm not familiar with the 177. But I have a narrow focus when it comes to transmissions.
 
As NOVAK mentions, if faced with the choice of changing transmissions I'm absolutely a T-18 snob, sure it's not a sedan short throw Transmission , but a Jeep isn't a sedan, it's supposed to be a truck, sure a 1/4 ton truck but a truck none the less.
 
The 177 has a lower first gear than the 176 does and it's syncro'd.
The T-18 and SM465 are 1 ton truck 'boxes' that are tank tuff-
LG
 
Machine shop will change out the seals for $40 labor only. Now to get the parts. I got Napa 15635 for the output but need to find the input. Anyone have that handy? Want to make sure I have the right one.
 
Seals for what?:confused:
$40.00 for 5 minutes work--:rolleyes:
LG
 
Probably a minimum charge fro shop time. This game gets expensive in a hurry when you can't do the work yourself. I know I would have been out of it long ago if I couldn't work on my jeep myself.
 
Having difficulty getting the flywheel bolts to loosen. I have a suspicion one of the POs used red loctite on them since I've discovered it in several other unusual places. Only have a 24" breaker bar. Put a cheater bar on it and it still wouldn't budge.

Held a torch on one of them for about 30 secs then quelched with a spray bottle. How long should I apply heat? Think it will help?
:)
Blue yes , Red only comes off with heat...........and who told you to quench it? Never do you quench a bolt on a dis-assembly after adding heat.

:D:D:D:D
 

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